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Sorry was outside for a while.......yep I mixed my paint and micro balloons in a 2 gal. bucket. Wear a good respirator (very important) and pour about a third of the balloons in and mix VERY GENTLY with a paint stick, NO electric mixer cuzz the stuff will blow everywhere, it's like talcum powder. Keep pouring and mixing till you get the consistency you want or use the entire gal of micro balloons.
 

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327NUT said:
Sorry was outside for a while.......yep I mixed my paint and micro balloons in a 2 gal. bucket. Wear a good respirator (very important) and pour about a third of the balloons in and mix VERY GENTLY with a paint stick, NO electric mixer cuzz the stuff will blow everywhere, it's like talcum powder. Keep pouring and mixing till you get the consistency you want or use the entire gal of micro balloons.
Any of you try the elastomeric paint's? I have read where the elastomeric component converts sound to heat and that it worked best.. I am also considering adding ceramic.. thoughts??? looking at the many pages, seems that the mixture outlined works well, but seems Spectrum or Lizard Skin has "other stuff" in it. Thoughts on that??
 

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Don't know anything about the elastomeric paint, I really don't care for the idea of changing sound wave to heat...if thats what it does. The hot rods get hot enough as it is.....Dunno! The orig. "302 Z-28" formula worked out for a number of members who tried it and I sold the body before it was on the road. Give your concoction a try and see how you like it, can't hurt and it might be a better deal.
 

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DanTwoLakes said:
In other words, you use a larger container and mix the two 1 gallon components together to make about 1 1/4 gallons?
That's probably very close.
 

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toddwallace said:
Any of you try the elastomeric paint's? I have read where the elastomeric component converts sound to heat and that it worked best.. I am also considering adding ceramic.. thoughts??? looking at the many pages, seems that the mixture outlined works well, but seems Spectrum or Lizard Skin has "other stuff" in it. Thoughts on that??
Read the Wiki article on ceramic insulation. There is a section on elastomerics like Kool Seal. CLICK HERE
 

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302 Z28 said:
That would not be a problem, as I stated earlier in the thread we in the radio control hobby routinely mix the micro spheres with epoxy and polyester resin. The spheres are phenolic the only thing that can damage them is aggressive mixing which can crush them. They can be mixed with any kind of coating.

Vince
o.k. I may try this with an automotive paint, but if they can be crushed, doesn't that affect the use under your feet?
and if so. wouldn't them getting chushed. open up the paint to failure.. ?
nice thread, just can't see using house paint.. in a car..
 

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gearheadslife
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Heartbeat said:
After I finished all my metal work on the floor; replacing metal, welding etc (or so I thought); I coated all metal inside and out with an epoxy primer. Then applied the sphers and latex to the inside of the cab with brushes, rollers, using whatever I had. I use exterior latex paint as the binder. It works for years on my exterior house and trim it ought to work on the inside of my cab where I am expecting little or no water. I had some left over Ford blue impliment enamel which I painted over part of my work. It does seal the latex but I'm not sure it's necessary. Right now it's just an experiment.
No doubt other binders will work as well perhaps better. I started with the latex and stayed with it. I am pleased with the thickness of my application as I believe that provides effeciency. It withstands heat. I scorched it with my plasma cutter only right where I was cutting, even the epoxy primer disappeared with that treatment.
It's a hobby, have fun!
Heartbeat
I few things, exterior latex , has to breath.. or it will lift off the wood on a house.. think about that..
 

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o.k. I may try this with an automotive paint, but if they can be crushed, doesn't that affect the use under your feet?
and if so. wouldn't them getting crushed. open up the paint to failure.. ?
nice thread, just can't see using house paint.. in a car..
This was a good question.. never got a reply.
Curious myself
 

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M5.....I'll try to answer the question with my reasoning....for what that's worth. These micro baloons or sphere's are indeed micro, like I said in an earlier post this stuff is like talcom powder. You have to be extremely careful when you pour it and mix it or it will blow all over the place....hense the respirator.

It's not necessary to put it on the floor when you will lay down dynamat or equivalent and then carpet padding and carpet.......but it won't hurt it either. Once the mixture dries it's just as hard as any paint surface and you won't burst the bubble so to speak by stepping on it. Really no need to use automotive paint on the inside of the car, a good quality exterior latex house paint works very well.

Here's a few pics of my old glass body that I used this system on, my new body will get the same exact treatment.
 

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These micro balloons are about as fine as talcum powder - and a very good reason to wear at least a dust mask when you open the shipping plastic bag and pour into your paint. Probably somewhere in the first few pages of this thread you may see my car done with them as well - but I no longer can find the photos in my files. Now, do they work - heck, I don't know, but the floor of my car is well insulated otherwise and this was just some more, just in case:D

Dave W
 

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Thanks to the both of you for the reply.
I am probably going to put it all over the interior of my truck. (including roof)
I also considered putting it under the cab.. (wondered if it might keep out heat from tranny, and exhaust)

These Atlanta summers get hot, and I plan on making some long trips. The cooler the better.

How many square feet did you guys say a gallon would cover... did you put on more than one coat. I had planned on rolling it on.

This is something I can do in between my other projects, so I think I'll see about getting some of this stuff ASAP.
My plan is to put this on, and then the fake dynamat over that. Should make a big difference
I am making a 46 Studebaker pickup and extended the cab 18".
THANKS again. I just joined so I can see where this forum will help me a lot.
 

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Thanks to the both of you for the reply.
I am probably going to put it all over the interior of my truck. (including roof)
I also considered putting it under the cab.. (wondered if it might keep out heat from tranny, and exhaust)

These Atlanta summers get hot, and I plan on making some long trips. The cooler the better.

How many square feet did you guys say a gallon would cover... did you put on more than one coat. I had planned on rolling it on.

This is something I can do in between my other projects, so I think I'll see about getting some of this stuff ASAP.
My plan is to put this on, and then the fake dynamat over that. Should make a big difference
I am making a 46 Studebaker pickup and extended the cab 18".
THANKS again. I just joined so I can see where this forum will help me a lot.

If you buy a gallon of these spheres, then mix them into a gallon of latex house paint, you should be able to have more then enough to put a full two coats on. Get a Home Depot 5 gallon 'Homer Bucket' or similar to do your mixing and be prepared to spend a while folding the two together. I found that two and now pretty heavy coats took a long time to fully dry

And wear your dust mask!!!!
 

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Thanks to the both of you for the reply.
I am probably going to put it all over the interior of my truck. (including roof)
I also considered putting it under the cab.. (wondered if it might keep out heat from tranny, and exhaust)

These Atlanta summers get hot, and I plan on making some long trips. The cooler the better.

How many square feet did you guys say a gallon would cover... did you put on more than one coat. I had planned on rolling it on.

This is something I can do in between my other projects, so I think I'll see about getting some of this stuff ASAP.
My plan is to put this on, and then the fake dynamat over that. Should make a big difference
I am making a 46 Studebaker pickup and extended the cab 18".
THANKS again. I just joined so I can see where this forum will help me a lot.
If you're going to use Dynamat or some other sound deadener along with this stuff, put the Dynamat on first and then cover it with the mixture. Using Dynamat too might be a little overkill.
 

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If I can do the both pretty cheap... that's cool.
I was hoping maybe the coating would help with the heat,.. and the dynamat for the sound. ?? I am new to this so I'm not sure how it all works.

I hear ya bout wearing the mast. I do some sandblasting so I have a respirator.
I "assume" once you get it poured into the paint an mixed, a respirator won't be necessary??

Where did you folks say you got the glassbeads.
As far as paint if just 'any' good exterior paint will work, I thought I'd check at Home Depot or Lowes and buy a gallon of "oops" paint that they mismatched for about $10
 

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If I can do the both pretty cheap... that's cool.
I was hoping maybe the coating would help with the heat,.. and the dynamat for the sound. ?? I am new to this so I'm not sure how it all works.

I hear ya bout wearing the mast. I do some sandblasting so I have a respirator.
I "assume" once you get it poured into the paint an mixed, a respirator won't be necessary??

Where did you folks say you got the glassbeads.
As far as paint if just 'any' good exterior paint will work, I thought I'd check at Home Depot or Lowes and buy a gallon of "oops" paint that they mismatched for about $10
Once it's mixed, you wont need the mask.

An aircraft supply house like Aircraft Spruce will sell them - Search Results from Aircraft Spruce

You can also do a Google using Micro Spheres as you search phrase

I used Lowe's best exterior latex - not getting any cheaper either, but I recently bought a nice 'oops' gray at $2.50 for a quart which was perfect for what I needed for a home workshop project
 

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since this is so inexpensive... Obviously I'll do the inside floor of the cab,.. but I was curious; would you do the underside of the cab to cut down on header and exhaust heat.
Do you think it'd help any??

Oh.. just in case this is a web link to my little project.
I'm kind of proud of it since I never did any type work like this before.. had to learn to weld, etc.
http://studebakerproject.yolasite.com/
 

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since this is so inexpensive... Obviously I'll do the inside floor of the cab,.. but I was curious; would you do the underside of the cab to cut down on header and exhaust heat.
Do you think it'd help any??

Oh.. just in case this is a web link to my little project.
I'm kind of proud of it since I never did any type work like this before.. had to learn to weld, etc.
http://studebakerproject.yolasite.com/
I would not do the underside of the cab with the latex/micro spheres. My suggestion is to use truck bed liner - even the spray on is very resistant to road debris kicked up. I used that stuff under my fenders as well and so far not a sign of deterioration.

That is a great project - my only negative comment is the use of concrete blocks as jack stands - don't. They fail with potentially disastrous results. Harbor Freight has several capacity sets and are almost always on sale.

That tribute to your pup - great. Our kids are long gone with the youngest over 40 so we 'replaced' them with a mid size poodle, shown with me in my car and who is everything you could ask in a 4 legged companion.:
 

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I'm with Ireland 100% on NOT doing the underside with this stuff, wasn't made for it.....ditto on the concrete blocks.
 

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The concrete block / jackstands were kind of misleading.
It appears they are the 'primary' source of support.
Actually the chainhoist was the main support, I just added the blocks as a safety measure.
Dad said I didn't need to blocks at all,.. but I figured better safe than sorry.

Thanks for the props about the site.
The project has been a labor of love so far. I am anxious to get it finished.
:)
 
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