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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys.
A guy at my job is offering a alum driveshaft to help complete my project for $300.00. Just how much difference would this make and is it worth the fee. I near the end of my project but strangely keep finding new toys to stretch out completion. I would be running a .454 bored .30 over, the 049 heads, msd ignition, with headers. 700r4 with stage 3 shift and all the updates (said to hold an honest 550 - 600 hp),2600 stall, 8.5 10 bolt posi rear with 3.73's. '79 nova coupe that will see street use mostly
 

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Hey novaman which part of ATL are you in? I just went to the driveline shop this afternoon. They are making me an aluminum shaft for my Tbucket. They make all kinds of shafts. They have two locations, the one I use is on Jonesboro Rd. $300 is a good deal for a shaft of this size (mine is only 20" long) Don't know the full name of the place but I will get it tomorrow when I pick up my shaft.
Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for responding guys.
Ok so his price is fair but my question is what can I really expect from this upgrade? Will this affect milage in any way? Will there be a significant HP gain?
Do you have a # for that Jonesboro Rd shop? Im off Tara Blvd in Jonesboro.
 

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I doubt that you will any measurable difference on the street from steel to aluminum shafts.

I have an aluminum drive shaft in my 61 Dodge Lancer, with chevy power , ford suspension....

 

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I am going over tomorrow so I will get it then. But I think the name is Driveline Services on Joneboro Rd. It is next to where the old Super Shop store was (If you remember them). I will PM you tomorrow with the number.

Randall
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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The problem with aluminum is you have to increase the wall thickness and tube size to get the same strenght. The weight further from the center increase polar inertia. Rendereing your $300 wasted. Smaller steel tubes work better are cheaper. If you got money to burn go carbon fiber. Same strenght but less than half the weight of aluminum. I'm guessing you have lot's of other places to spend $300 saving rotating weight than the driveshaft. The clutch is your main killer.
 

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Yup..Listen to what Johnson has to say on this..if it is my money I would go for one of the small double or triple disk clutches..That is if I could find a clutch outfit that would make me one with suitable linings for the street use..

Sam
 

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Ford has gone to aluminum driveshafts in many of their( if not all) cars/trucks, it was done to eliminate some vibrations ( I think it is called NVH,noise/vibration/harshness). So they are not totally without merit. It might be cheaper to get one of those and have it shortened. While it is true that you have to increase the wall thickness, I have had a few in my hands and they do represent a substantial weight savings that shouldn't be overlooked. Especially considering it is a rotating mass.
 

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Rotational weight is almost irrelavent.

A 2 1/2 inch shaft will never hold the power, it will twist like a candy cane.
Diameter is more important than wall thickness. Start thinking 3 1/2 for performance.

Aluminum driveshafts are much better at high speeds when the shaft rpm is way up there.
 

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Just a guesstimate on my part but I think the alum. is about 3 times the cost of a steel driveshaft..One of those deals that if you need the best of everything or have a competitve reason to use one then it may be worth it..

Sam
 

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I just installed a Denny's HD steel driveshaft in my project car - the price included a new trans slip joint, both u-joints and, of course balancing. And it was painted a real shiny black. Delivered to my door for $286 - and for an out of stater, it would have been 8.75% less(@#$%*^ NY and Onondaga County sales taxes). The HD aluminum was about $100 more.

Inland Empire is about $100 more across the board.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

Dave
 
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