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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys I just got my new 350 Dart shp small block done the other day and got it back in my garage and I noticed that my crankshaft pulley is wobbly at idle and when you rev it up you can't see it then. The balancer is on all the way and everything is lined up well and the bolts were all checked and they are all tight so somehow it must have went bad over time as I never noticed it before. It was just a Summit racing brand black steel oem style pulley for a long water pump and is a two groove pulley.

I was looking at buying a new pulley and I found some aluminum ones that are on ebay listed below and I was wondering has anyone used an aluminum crankshaft pulley and how well has it done over time with v belt setup? Is there any pros and cons using them? I am making sure its nothing under drive as I want to stay factory ratio. I have seen some just like the ebay ones at summit as well and my power steering pulley is aluminum and has never given me any problems and I was just curious and hope for some more knowledge from those who have used them.

Thanks guys for any help.
 

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Used them for years, you have to buy the best quality you can afford. There is no prob using them on the street or strip, longevity is very good

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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More for Less Racer
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I've used a bunch of those no-name machined aluminum pulleys with zero problems....if fact they run truer than any OEM stamped steel pulley... that's a fact.

In the age of rapid CNC machining whether from a billet solid or a cast blank they are still stronger than needed, and easily cranked out in production with few QC issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is what I about figured guys and thank you for your experience and I am going to go ahead and get me an aluminum one and the aluminum unit I was thinking yesterday compared to a steel one would sure save some weight and should in theory not warp like that. I will get me one today and get it here next week and get my pulley swapped out. I am going to get the one shown above and go with it and fingers crossed it will last longer then my truck.

Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hello guys I just have one last question here. Once I get my new pulley is there a way to keep my engine from turning over so I can torque my crankshaft bolt down to 60 ftlbs by myself? In the past I used to take a rope and put it through my flexplate since I have an automatic transmission and put it through a hole and tied it around my frame but I know have an inspection cover for the first time on my th350 and it had to have some customizing on it to be bolted on and I don't have time to have to take the whole thing off and its a long story on that one.

S10 swap deals and other factors. I don't have much room to work with in the front but can access everything without having to take my radiator out and stuff. I doubt I can hold my pulley while trying to torque my crank bolt down as I am using a 12 point ARP crank bolt and it takes a straight on hold or it will just come off the head. Any old school tricks that I have never heard off? Thanks
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Often the cheap pulleys aren't hardened so they do wear faster. On the street, I doubt it's a problem.
Rattle gun or stick a screw driver between the starter and flywheel. Strap wrench around the damper works too.
You can also subsitute one long bolt through the damper so it hits the block pan rail. Then tighten, then remove it for the correct one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I thought about that yesterday about using a very long bolt temporary to stick out far enough and I can just tie a rope around it across my frame rail and it will hold it in place while I torque the crank bolt down. Thanks johnsongrass1 for the help and to others as well. I never thought about using a longer bolt to stick through the balancer long enough to touch the block and keep it from moving. Much appreciated.
 

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Something I ran into with my 383 and pulleys/belts...
I put some aluminum pulleys like you're talking about on the crank and water pump.
It constantly threw the PS pump belt, every time I'd let it rev to 5000.
So I put a new stock pulley on the PS pump, but still threw the belt.
I then put an aluminum one on there, since my original pulley actually got bent.
Still threw the belt, then it also threw the WP/Alt belt once or twice.

I then started to go the Serpentine route, but kept procrastinating, since it's either going to take fabrication of an idler pulley bracket, or moving my alternator to the passenger side like later model Chevys. It also requires a reverse rotation water pump...

During the process of "eyeballing" and brainstorming on an idler/tensioner solution for that, I finally looked more closely at the pulleys and the belts, and realized that the pulleys seemed to have a narrower and/or shallower groove than I recall the stock ones having. The belts that I've been given when I've said "I need a belt for a 67 Chevelle with a small block" spec'd as 7/16" wide, and they sat a little above flush with the aluminum pulleys. So I decided to do my own search on O'Reilly's site, for 3/8" belts with the length that I need.
I managed to find some that would fit, even though the selection seemed much less than 7/16 belts.
Put those on just recently, have taken it out a few times and "gotten on it" pretty good, and it hasn't thrown a belt yet.
It had been doing it every time, so this is a definite improvement.

On a related note... I had to buy a new alternator a few years ago, and the pulley on it is even shallower than the aluminum pulleys. The belt sits well above flush with the pulley. So I'm going to see about getting a deeper pulley for that... of course, I had collected up most of the things I'll need for the serpentine setup before I went to the 3/8 belts, including the reverse WP, so I'll likely end up doing that anyway.

So the moral of the story is... I'd recommend getting belts that are narrow enough that the belt sits at or below flush with the edge of the pulleys that you buy. Even the 3/8 belts are flush with the pulley edge, so they aren't "smaller" than necessary, they're "correct".

Maybe some of the aluminum pulleys will accomodate the 7/16 belts properly, but not the ones that I bought... So I'd look into that as you look for pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah my power steering belt fits nice in my power steering pump pulley which is aluminum and fits nice and flush with it and my water pump pulley which was chrome but I painted it and hate chrome but was what was available at the time I bought my pulley setup and I will have to check and see how they fit. If needed I will buy a different water pump pulley and everything else with more quality stuff if needed. The belts I am using so far have never been thrown off regardless of the el cheapo ones or the longer lasting higher quality ones that have like a ribbed looked to it versus the cheap ones which are just plain flat across the top and bottom with the V shape to them.

The better ones looked like they have treads on the bottom which is what my power steering pump has. Thanks for the tips and tomorrow I will see how my belts look in my other pulley setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did a test fit guys with the new aluminum pulley and it looks like it will fit real good and can't figure out how my steel crank pulley went bad and started to wobble like it did. I don't know if somehow my Father might had accidentally dinged the end of it when he installed my engine as I don't remember it being like that when before it was taken out late summer. O well it looks good with the new pulley and will be getting it back together and with a new fan I got. Thanks again guys for all your help and will see how this one goes.
Take care all.
 

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I like the cogged belt aluminum too, but you need anodized and better alloy due to the belt actually wearing into the cog teeth on the pulleys, but they look cool as hell

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The pulley I got was from summit racing and its supposed to be billet aluminum so we will see how it goes. The crank pulley that was steel I had for over ten plus years and no issues with it and still looked like new since I painted it many times but it only had less then ten thousand miles over the years as well. I might get another steel one to keep at the side if I ever have any issues with it just in case.
 
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