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what year 302
If you are referring to a Ford 302, turn the block upside down and next to the pan rail, on the side of the block you will find a flat spot with a 4 place letter number combination.
If it starts with a C, that indicates made in the 60's, the number next to it will indicate the year. IE C9xx, means 69, and the other two letters indicate the usage and option .
D =80's
E= 90's
Warning though, some were cast without it, so you will have to look elsewhere on the block for that letter/number combo.
If you are referring to a Ford 302, turn the block upside down and next to the pan rail, on the side of the block you will find a flat spot with a 4 place letter number combination.
If it starts with a C, that indicates made in the 60's, the number next to it will indicate the year. IE C9xx, means 69, and the other two letters indicate the usage and option .
D =80's
E= 90's
Warning though, some were cast without it, so you will have to look elsewhere on the block for that letter/number combo.
They are pretty much the same.Unless you get a Mexican casting which is slightly stronger,or a Boss block with treaded core plugs.
302
Correct. The Mexican version does have slightly thicker main caps.
OOPS!!!!!!!!!!
Thats supposed to read
C=60's
D=70's
E=80's
F=90's.
Sorry about that.
Correct. The Mexican version does have slightly thicker main caps.
OOPS!!!!!!!!!!
Thats supposed to read
C=60's
D=70's
E=80's
F=90's.
Sorry about that.
thanks i found out that my block is a 87 302, is there any certain years that the blocks are stronger except for the mexican blocks and what year were the mexican blocks used.
302 blocks
Other than possibly the Boss 302 blocks of 69-70, which had screw in frost plugs, they are all the same. The only main difference is that the roller cam versions have taller lifter bores and the cam bearing seats are larger diameter.
Other than possibly the Boss 302 blocks of 69-70, which had screw in frost plugs, they are all the same. The only main difference is that the roller cam versions have taller lifter bores and the cam bearing seats are larger diameter.
When I was Time Trialing my Maverick with EMRA in the 90's,a friend in NJ and I did a lot of 289/302 work.We bought a new block from Summit for under $300 that was a roller cam type and was even lighter as a casting.Summit had a bunch of these new and "last blocks".I also know that in 1980 Ford made the cranks lighter and balanced differently.Back then Ford Brazil was importing especially made 302 ethanol burners with 11:1 CR to sell on Galaxie Landau here! They were fantastic but quite a few cranks broke.I preffer the pre '80 cranks,mid '70s blocks,289 heads,'77 up flat pistons.Cheap powerfull combination. Have a look at www.santafuria.trix.net for an all out road racing Maverick dueling against Ferrari,Porsche,Omega etc in south america.
road race Maverick
That was an awesome looking Maverick. I always figured if I ever built one for the street, it would look like that.
That was an awesome looking Maverick. I always figured if I ever built one for the street, it would look like that.
Yes awesome!It belongs to a friend.They have been developing it for more than 10 years.2 engines.One is an iron head 380 HP ,6500 rpm,cast pistons.When things get tight they run a Gurney Eagle/Weber,7000 rpm,forged pistons.Now the shock! Both on the original cast crank! Wet sump to boot.Tranny is Toploader.Sometimes 3rd cooks and seizes...?Maybe oil is too hot.
Brakes are huge 13" discs with Wilwood 6 pistons.Shocks are Bilstein,diffy is Dana 44,tyres are Pirelli 18".
Brakes are huge 13" discs with Wilwood 6 pistons.Shocks are Bilstein,diffy is Dana 44,tyres are Pirelli 18".
Batty Maverick
From what you describe as the engine and from the looks of it, it sure must run hard.
I would be interested in what suspension modifications have been made to make it handle.
One good trick used on all the Fords with the type of front suspension the Maverick has is to lower the upper control arm 1 inch and move it to the rear 1/4 inch. then put a 30 degree wedgge piece between the upper ball joint and the control arm to bring the ball joint back to center. What this does is to creat a 0 camber gain on cornering. What ever camber you have set in your suspension at rest will stay that way through out the corner, regardless of weight load or shift. Of course that is relative to chassis flex. Doing this also lowers the entire front end approximately 1 inch. Tying the frame stubs together is done to eliminate chassis flex and twist.
From what you describe as the engine and from the looks of it, it sure must run hard.
I would be interested in what suspension modifications have been made to make it handle.
One good trick used on all the Fords with the type of front suspension the Maverick has is to lower the upper control arm 1 inch and move it to the rear 1/4 inch. then put a 30 degree wedgge piece between the upper ball joint and the control arm to bring the ball joint back to center. What this does is to creat a 0 camber gain on cornering. What ever camber you have set in your suspension at rest will stay that way through out the corner, regardless of weight load or shift. Of course that is relative to chassis flex. Doing this also lowers the entire front end approximately 1 inch. Tying the frame stubs together is done to eliminate chassis flex and twist.
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