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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 87 reliant calls out code 38: torque converter lock up switch or solenoid. a book we have says it is supposed to be behind the dipstick at the LEFT (pass. side) front of the transmission.

there is absolutely nothing there. does ANYBODY know where it is?? is it supposed to be a 6 or 8 rectangular gack that plugs in directly to the case, not to a connector/harness.

i swear, i only wanted this year to not have the car trouble last year had and i'll be a monkey's uncle if i can't get some help here

87 plymouth 2.5 liter front wheel drive reliant
 

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It's been awhile since I've worked on one but from what I remember it is a round plastic piece that comes up from the case next to where the dipstick sits. There should be a connector with two wires for it. If you can trace the wires back from where the neutral safety switch plugs in I think thats where the connector comes off of. Is this the original transmission that came with the car? It may be a reman. transmission that never had a lockup
converter. In this picture its the solenoid electrical connector.
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
see, this is the exact picture my friend has. last night he was on the phont telling me to look behind the dip stick and like i said, there is nothing there! i just got this pos so i dont know if it's original but cant see it not being. thanks for the pic, but is there any other pictures you can look at of some other tranny that might be there? i dont get it. if this car does NOT have a locking torque converter, then why would it barely move? either in D or R, this thing seems like there is no power and barely gets under way. going up hill it's like 5 mph, too. jeez, all i did was change the valve cover gasket. i have checked all the wires around and nothing weird except for a couple black wires that were soldered together, that used to have tape or something on them and now they are bare. i'm sure they are a ground, so it shouldnt matter if they touch the block. almost all the protective loom covering has fallen off. i appreciate your help

if i dont have a lock up, why am i getting a code calling that out? not stock tranny? so if i don't have one, what does anybody think it could be, other than black magic?
 

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The part that the wire connector plugs into is plastic and sticks up about an inch above the part of the casting next to the dipstick hole. If that part of the transaxle isn't machined and is just a flat surface then it does not have a lockup torque converter valve body. The plastic piece connects directly to the valve body and energizes the solenoid on the valve body for the lockup valve.
You need to post more information about what the car is doing. The problem could be the transaxle but sounds more like the engine. You can have a driveability problem and not set a code in the controller. Such as a timing issue. The dist. in these cars had problems with the reluctors(sp?). they would loosen up and cause problems with timeing. Another possiblity is the timing belt jumped. If the car has alot of mileage and never had a timing belt replcaed the belt could be strectched and the cam timing would be off. We need more information about what the engine is doing.
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it calls out a code 12 as well , which is the logic module. i dont get how it could just instantly decide to go bad just from me changing a valve cover. the car starts and engine runs in idle fine. when you go to put it in gear it's like there is just no power at all, like i was trying to tow a travel trailer or something.
my friend said he has no idea now, and to take it to chrysler any pay them an hour to diagnose it. that would be like $80. should i just, for about the same price, go buy a new logic module? we have disconnected the battery for like 2 minutes to try to reset it to no avail. was that long enough? thanks.
 

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Don't know if disconnecting will reset the logic module or not. It won't hurt anything to try longer time. Electrical parts can go bad anytime. If the module is bad it doesn't necessarily mean it happened when you changed the gasket. If you can buy a module and be able to return it if that doesn't fix your problem then it's worth a try. But most places won't accept returns on electrical parts. If you do buy the part and it doesn't fix it and can't return it then how pissed off will you be? I guess you could always try reselling it on ebay or keeping it as a spare. If I were you I would check all the simple stuff first. Belt timing, dist., fuel pressure, anything else than can be checked without replacing expensive parts. If you can't find anything after that then either roll the dice and try a logic module or take it to a garage and have it diagnosed. It comes down to guess work without the right equipment to diagnose problems.
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
blow on dem bones!

BABY NEEDS A NEW PAIR OF SHOES!!!:sweat:

(thanks mopar)

fyi, 1-18-05, took it to chrysler and they fixed it. they called out bad harnesses but the only thing i think they fixed is a broken vac line behind the throttle body.
 
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