any chrysler factory techs?

see, this is the exact picture my friend has. last night he was on the phont telling me to look behind the dip stick and like i said, there is nothing there! i just got this pos so i dont know if it's original but cant see it not being. thanks for the pic, but is there any other pictures you can look at of some other tranny that might be there? i dont get it. if this car does NOT have a locking torque converter, then why would it barely move? either in D or R, this thing seems like there is no power and barely gets under way. going up hill it's like 5 mph, too. jeez, all i did was change the valve cover gasket. i have checked all the wires around and nothing weird except for a couple black wires that were soldered together, that used to have tape or something on them and now they are bare. i'm sure they are a ground, so it shouldnt matter if they touch the block. almost all the protective loom covering has fallen off. i appreciate your help

if i dont have a lock up, why am i getting a code calling that out? not stock tranny? so if i don't have one, what does anybody think it could be, other than black magic?

The part that the wire connector plugs into is plastic and sticks up about an inch above the part of the casting next to the dipstick hole. If that part of the transaxle isn't machined and is just a flat surface then it does not have a lockup torque converter valve body. The plastic piece connects directly to the valve body and energizes the solenoid on the valve body for the lockup valve.
You need to post more information about what the car is doing. The problem could be the transaxle but sounds more like the engine. You can have a driveability problem and not set a code in the controller. Such as a timing issue. The dist. in these cars had problems with the reluctors(sp?). they would loosen up and cause problems with timeing. Another possiblity is the timing belt jumped. If the car has alot of mileage and never had a timing belt replcaed the belt could be strectched and the cam timing would be off. We need more information about what the engine is doing.

Don't know if disconnecting will reset the logic module or not. It won't hurt anything to try longer time. Electrical parts can go bad anytime. If the module is bad it doesn't necessarily mean it happened when you changed the gasket. If you can buy a module and be able to return it if that doesn't fix your problem then it's worth a try. But most places won't accept returns on electrical parts. If you do buy the part and it doesn't fix it and can't return it then how pissed off will you be? I guess you could always try reselling it on ebay or keeping it as a spare. If I were you I would check all the simple stuff first. Belt timing, dist., fuel pressure, anything else than can be checked without replacing expensive parts. If you can't find anything after that then either roll the dice and try a logic module or take it to a garage and have it diagnosed. It comes down to guess work without the right equipment to diagnose problems.