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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My buddy wants me to paint his new truck. Its a 96 2dr blazer, currently all white and he wants it all black. The body is perfectly straight so basically its just a scuff and spray.

What would be the approx. cost in materials here? I need everything, including scotch brite, sealer, base, clear, hardeners, thinners.
Im pretty familiar with, and would prefer using ppg but im also somewhat familiar with dupont, Id rather not have TOO much left over supplies so how much product should i get?

Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated,
Jake.
 

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Robbins Racing
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I would be careful of going black on the "quick and easy" route. White hides the best, that's why it looks perfect. Even a small spot of orange peel after wetsanding on black looks like someone took a golf ball to it. I would try to find a white with a name that sounds cool, talk it up to him and get out of doing door jambs and will retain the hiding abilities. That's what I would do since he's your friend trying to spend the least and you trying to maximize profit and minimize labor... To save the most money, go with Nason ful-thane SS, or spend a lot and get chromaone. I have a better transfer efficiency than this saying, but they say calculate 7-10oz of mixed material per panel per coat. I don't know how true that holds, I just saw it on Trucks one day and it stuck for ruff estimates. Also, picking up a sealer will greatly improve coverage equaling less material costs. Lastly, I wouldn't only use scotch-brites as my main abrasive choice. If you're not doing any body work anyway, at least give it a good wet block sanding with 400 if not 320->400.
I can't really say what costs are for you, I get a discount on my paint supplies locally, it's easy enough to call your local supply with a list to price check.
 

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Hotrodders.com Moderator
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Time plus materials, hard to go wrong there. He gets to see how much the stuff can cost, you get your money for the work involved.

RC has a good point about the color change, we used to call them leopards, especially when there is a drastic color change, every chip, ding, scrape, etc. will show the color underneath, they look like leopard spots.
 

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If your friend is bored of his white paint, you might even try giving it a pearl finish to liven it up, a pearl white is pretty custom looking and would be relatively easy to do, there's a great write up on it in a book call Painting your Car on a Budget that you could probably pick up at a library. As far as cheap paint goes, I love the prices and quality of Kirker auto paints, they're the cheapest by far i've ever seen and have great sanding properties. Try smartshoppersinc.com you can't go wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well what can i say, he wants black. :rolleyes:
He just needs a rough cost so he can think it over more. I dont mind jambing it or doing more work, i just hate when these things are half-assed and would rather do it myself.
 

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Paintshop Dog
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Well.... lets see...

I've got a 2 door Blazer. In fact. I've just finished resurrecting my Blazer from a roll over..... Mine is all done except for the paint. ..I'll get into all that in my own thread later... my point now is, I've been figuring up how much material I'm gonna need.

So: I figure, I'm gonna need a quart of epoxy primer/sealer, plus hardener. I use a cheaper brand made by PPG, OMNI. at about $60 a quart + @ $20 for hardener. This goes on over any bare metal when fixing spots, prior to fixing the dents... need bondo, or polyester.. that's about $25. I know you say its perfect. But, if your gonna do it right, do it right. Fix the dents... Need sand paper for that. It's easy to spend $40 on coarse paper for all of that. I'll finish that out in 180 grit. Then I'll probably use the epoxy for filler primer too. So, add another batch... $80... Then we gotta get that all sanded with... you're going black. So I'd use 400 grit. I'm going silver. So, I'll need to go over my 400 with 600. Let's say $40 bucks in wet sand paper for that. Then, a bit of scotch-bright scrub it down and get it all clean... I think they got cheap packs of that places for... let's say $10. OK... now lets tape it up... Oh, wait.. we had to do that for primer too. Giant piece of plastic from home improvement store works for this. Just spread it over the car/truck and cut out the holes where you wanna prime... $5. Tape is about $4 a roll or so now days. I'd say you need 3 rolls minimum... Stuff goes like TP when ya get going. So $12... let's say $15... news paper comes cheap!! But, don't let the clear soak through it.... Yes it can. Now, let's shoot this thing. It's just too easy to get a gallon of all this. Gallon of [email protected] $100, gallon of reducer $35, gallon of clear $200, hardener can be as much as $80, more reducer?... depends on what kind you use $35. But, could be another $35ish. BTW I would not seal it. That's why we fixed it all first..IMO... now let's say $20 for color-sanding paper. Then $30 for compound, and $30 for polish... wax at discretion a few month later after time for curing... :mwink:

epoxy x 2 = $160, bondo = $25, sanding = $40 + $40 + $10 + $20 = $110, masking = $5 + $15, paint = $100 + $35 + $200 + $80 + $35 = $450, buff = $60

Quick ruff Sum = $855 :thumbup:

GOOD LUCK
 

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Don't forget a BRAND NEW paint gun that has never had metallic paint in it, or they will find their way onto your lovely BLACK paint. No, it doesn't matter how well you think you cleaned out the gun. No, they will not show up until you're all done and back it out into the sunlight. I would recommend Anest Iwata LPH-400 with the 1.3mm tip set for clear or black.

Are you sure you actually want to cut and buff someone else's Black Blazer?

"Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated"
"I dont mind jambing it or doing more work, i just hate when these things are half-assed and would rather do it myself."

Why would you care? It's not your truck. Not being mean, I've seen far too many guys lose far too many weekends, money and relationships working on 'someone else's car'. :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haha, yea i got a new devilbiss ive been waiting to try out. And i got the buffing covered. I worked at a body shop for a painter thats 'less than qualified'. Once you sand and buff an entire hearse that popped because the painter doesn't understand flash times, you can buff just about anything.
And even though its not my truck, yes, i still care. Im not putting my name on a *****ty paint job. If someone sees a black truck with white jambs, the first thing they're gonna think is "who the hell painted that?". I believe if you dont care about your work, it will be low quality and, as i said before, half-assed.
 

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Paintshop Dog
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I do work for all my friends and all the people I've done work for have become friends. That's a little thing called integrity. I do understand what ya mean Bodyman, Ya gotta be straight with your friends to make it work....
..BTW, I still say there aint no such thing as 96 Blazer thats got "not even a door ding". Check it over for real. Its white. I promise its lying to ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll look it over again but the only thing i saw was a scuff on the rear bumper. Only 88k miles, owned by a 65 y.o. guy that babied this thing. But when i go to spray it I'll guide coat the entire thing before i block it just to be sure.
 

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Approx repaint cost

Dinger is right, time and materials. I do all of mine that way. I think a grand will get the materials. Does he want a price including labor? Send him to a reputable shop. The cost to do a color change on that vehicle correctly will exceed it's value. So boils down to what will it cost you for materials and what is your time worth. That is why time and materials is best way. If you are not marking up materials and you don't want to have many left you may deduct some off the cost on your receipts. Hell if it takes more time than you expected (it will), you can adjust the labor rate. But, most important, keep track of every dollar and hour spent on it. You'll be surprised. Plus, if he wants to hold you to an estimated cost you will need to determine what the max hours you will spend and work from that angle where quality suffers. Time is money, if you agree on an hourly rate, and no markup on materials he will not get a quality job for less. The Key is EDUCATION. If you truly know what it takes to do quality work, take the time to educate him. Give him options, tape off vs. R+Is, block sanding or not, scuff and buff or not. All these extras add to cost. Getting these issues resolved during price negotiation is key. It sets the expectations for both parties. It will be the most profitable part of the job. One last word, be sure to charge at least the amount of materials cost for labor, that way a redo is a brake even not a loss
financially. So... 2k is a bare minimum. I tell people that 3k is bare bones ( I will not paint over others body work, will not skip the blocking or buffing steps). But I discuss this with the customer and if they don't feel like they want these steps in order to save $$. I explain that I understand, but that my reputation is worth the added cost to me. I don't get every job that I could, but the ones I get it is very clear why it cost what it costs and there are no misunderstanding as to what is being done or why. If they whine, wait for a better job to come along (it will while your too busy working to cheap on their job) I tell people straight out... I'm not able to be the cheapest around when my quality expectations are what they are.
 
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