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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone knew of any really quiet high flowing mufflers in 2.5" in and out? The reason I ask is I found the Walker Quiet Flow series mufflers and ordered the quietest ones. Well, if those are the quietest ones I'd hate to hear what the loud ones are like :eek:.

I realize most people want their old car to be somewhat rambunctious if not down right rowdy, but I actually prefer my old cars quiet as my Grand Marquis if possible. But I haven't found a good high flowing muffler and resonator that's quiet as well.

In that I was wondering if anyone had the same problem or am I just the only oddball out there looking for this solution. :geek:

This is what I have currently, this is a 1966 Ford LTD 4 door hardtop with a 390 that is bored 30 over, roller cam, lifters and rockers. Edelbrock Performer heads with the CJ valves, custom made Diamond Pistons with 1.5/1.5/3.0mm moly top gapless ring pack yielding 10.5:1 static compression. I'm using FPA shorty headers, Walker Quiet Flow mufflers (the quietest ones) and some resonators in the tail pipes. I couldn't find anyone locally within 100 miles to mandrel bend 2.5" pipe on a 4" radius (live out in the sticks) and so I had to lobster tail the entire exhaust myself and I made a 'X' pipe in the middle as well.

Here are some pictures:

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I call it Frankenhaust :rolleyes:

Here is a short video of this '66 LTD running (for sound comparison).

1966 LTD 390

This is a short video of a clapped out '68 LTD running with its factory Z code 390 and factory dual exhaust with the exception of the previous owner cut out the mufflers and installed glass packs. Now this car was bought solely for the frame but I did get it running and driving before it gets dismantled for parts for my '68 XL. This '68 LTD Z code 390 is also a factory 10.5:1 static compression engine. You'll notice the engine makes more lifter noises than exhaust noise.

1968 LTD stock 390 (Z code)

I realize the 1966 LTD's 390 I built up has almost twice the horsepower as the '68 LTD's junk 390 ticking away, but I was wondering if someone was able to get their equivalent car just as quiet and if so how did they do it?

Thank you for your time.

Cheers
 

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Nice car so far.
(scratches head)
If you are looking for quite, what is with the headers and 2.5" pipe.
Your grand mark is quite because it has (at least mine had) iron manifolds, converters, mufflers and smaller i.d. pipe.
Have you ran it outside the shop, so the sound waves are not bouncing off everything in the shop.
Can you fit a longer case muffler in there or is that a no go?
Did the walkers have a flow arrow stamped in the case?
 

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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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I did read about a guy running two mufflers on each side after the x pipe to quiet it down. He added a glass pack before the case muffler IIRC. Hopefully someone will chime in about this possibility.
And yes, you might be the odd man out because that sound is music to my ears. ;)(y)
 

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Get rid of the X pipe and go back to an H pipe, this will knock the shrill out. This will drop the sound toward a soft rumble like the good old days.

Ford of the period also ran resonators as well as mufflers to further take some dB’s out.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Nice car so far.
(scratches head)
If you are looking for quite, what is with the headers and 2.5" pipe.
Your grand mark is quite because it has (at least mine had) iron manifolds, converters, mufflers and smaller i.d. pipe.
Have you ran it outside the shop, so the sound waves are not bouncing off everything in the shop.
Can you fit a longer case muffler in there or is that a no go?
Did the walkers have a flow arrow stamped in the case?
Hello Chad & Karen,

I should have probably explained my intention with the car along with my question on exhaust. This '66 LTD build was to mimic my Grand Marquis in comfort, ride, handling, noise, creature features, etc but the one exception, not be so pathetically slow as my Grand Marquis with its anemic Modular engine along with its AODE transmission with its narrow band of gear ratios. So after 3 months of research and 11 thousand dollars later the LTD's factory 390 (now 396) puts out just north of 500 gross horsepower @sea level and peaks at 5600 RPM. 5800 RPM is redline. In order to achieve the most horsepower in the car, I needed a good free flowing exhaust, hence the headers and 2.5 pipe all the way out past the bumper. The problem where I failed miserably is sound control. If you listen to the above short video of the car running compared to the '68 LTD it's night and day difference (need a good sound system to accurately compare).

Have you ever stood in front of say a 600 RMS watt 15" sub woofer with the bass turned up and you can feel your chest pounding. Well if you stand behind the '66 LTD (out in the open) you can feel the exhaust notes, at idle no less, in your chest as if standing in front of some obnoxious woofer turned up. It's that rowdy. If you listen to the '68 LTD video I posted above, the factory dual exhaust with glasspacks in place of the original mufflers is extremely quiet, in fact I joke about how the engines valve ticking noises are louder than the exhaust is. Both cars have 390's and both are 10.5:1 static compression engines. In fact with both cars idling next to each other I can't tell the '68 LTD is even running, the '66 LTD completely drowns the car out and the only way to tell is put your hand on the car to feel the engine running.

Of course I realize the '68 LTD has smaller exhaust and those horrible restrictive Ford log exhaust manifolds and of course it will be quieter as it also sports a flat tappet cam with longer ramp rates on the lobes. I was just curious if anyone knew of a really good high flowing large muffler that had the necessary attenuating large area built in to quell the noise even more. The original Ford mufflers (these cars still had them) were roughly 1-1/2 times as long as these Walkers Quiet Flow's, but I can't find anything like that in 2.5" exhaust. I do have plenty of room for a larger muffler.

These are the mufflers and resonators I used and I did follow the inlet markings when installing them.

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Again I do wish to thank you for taking the time to reply.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Get rid of the X pipe and go back to an H pipe, this will knock the shrill out. This will drop the sound toward a soft rumble like the good old days.

Ford of the period also ran resonators as well as mufflers to further take some dB’s out.

Bogie
Hello BogiesAnnex1,

Thank you for your reply. I was curious do you have links to testing or the actual data comparing the H pipe to the X pipe in sound attenuation? The reason I ask is I did some research on this and all the data I found suggests the X pipe is a few db quieter than the H pipe. Having worked for many years as a testing and design engineer for Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota then onto class 8 trucks (semis/lorries) that's all I did was research, design and testing. I love that sort of thing and would like to see the testing if you please as I like to keep an open mind.

On the topic of the resonators, I did incorporate them as well onto the exhaust.

Have a nice New Years.

Cheers
 

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Have to Spent any time in the exhaust catalog for light trucks. Some have oval mufflers and not the soup can round shaped ones.
They tend to be longer, Looking at your photo's it looks like you might have room at the header pipe to put small mufflers up there, (bullet type) to aid in making it not as loud.
The engines in both cars being the same compression is a moot point.
The 500hp one, the intake runners from air cleaner to valve flow more air, the exhaust flows more air, and headers help pull the burn air/fuel out.
This means your built 10.5 to 1 engine is getting more air and fuel in the cyl. to then compress, than the other almost bone stocker. more air and fuel to compress that will burn because of the better intake flow, and the headers helping clear out the burn gases, = a bigger bang, and pulse out the exhaust.

I know a little off topic, but, A buddy has a car that he hollowed out the converters in the head pipes, because 2+ years ago, everyone thought they ate power. So, he always get tickets because the exhaust was too loud.
We pulled his header pipes, cut open the hollowed converters, and put a glass pack center pipe in it, and packed around the pipe as much stainless steel wool, we could and clamp it, then weld it shut. Car was still loud, but it dropped the noise enough that it passed the db meter test.
It lost 1/2 a mph at the track with the homemade converter/glass packs. So they didn't eat too much power.
This was the mid 90's So, chassis dyno's were not really a thing to test before and after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have to Spent any time in the exhaust catalog for light trucks. Some have oval mufflers and not the soup can round shaped ones.
They tend to be longer, Looking at your photo's it looks like you might have room at the header pipe to put small mufflers up there, (bullet type) to aid in making it not as loud.
The engines in both cars being the same compression is a moot point.
The 500hp one, the intake runners from air cleaner to valve flow more air, the exhaust flows more air, and headers help pull the burn air/fuel out.
This means your built 10.5 to 1 engine is getting more air and fuel in the cyl. to then compress, than the other almost bone stocker. more air and fuel to compress that will burn because of the better intake flow, and the headers helping clear out the burn gases, = a bigger bang, and pulse out the exhaust.

I know a little off topic, but, A buddy has a car that he hollowed out the converters in the head pipes, because 2+ years ago, everyone thought they ate power. So, he always get tickets because the exhaust was too loud.
We pulled his header pipes, cut open the hollowed converters, and put a glass pack center pipe in it, and packed around the pipe as much stainless steel wool, we could and clamp it, then weld it shut. Car was still loud, but it dropped the noise enough that it passed the db meter test.
It lost 1/2 a mph at the track with the homemade converter/glass packs. So they didn't eat too much power.
This was the mid 90's So, chassis dyno's were not really a thing to test before and after.
Hello Chad & Karen,

I did indeed download the entire Walker catalogue and searched through the entire thing as usually I start with what's used on the newer OE cars. These Quiet Flow's were the best option, that's why I figured I would ask if anyone knew of a different manufacturer that made a large quiet free flowing muffler. As a last resort I am considering adding some high flow catalytic convertors between the headers and 'X' pipe to help quiet it down some. Both '66's will be laden with sound and thermal proofing so it shouldn't be too bad with the windows up, but my LTD has this really cool rear vent in the back.

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Even with the factory sound deadener it's not too bad with the windows up and this vent closed, but open the rear vent and that exhaust noise comes right in the rear package shelf.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Porter mufflers.

Thank you cerial,

I had a look at the Porter Mufflers as I have never heard of those before, they look like a regular type "glass pack". I think this would be a step backwards and make my 1966 LTD louder than it already is. If anyone knows of a muffler company that makes the OEM Ford old large mufflers but in 2.5" I would love to hear about it. I do believe the extra large length for a noise phase cancellation chamber is really the only way to quiet down the 1966 LTD.

In my previous posts video/sound clips, that junky parts car 1968 LTD with its Z code 390 has glass packs on an original Ford factory dual exhuast and it's really quiet at idle or even fast idle, if you rev the nuts off it however it does have a little bit rap in it. But just with the 1966 and 1968 LTD's idling side by side, the 1966 is so rowdy you can't even tell the '68 LTD is running.

Cheers!
 

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I think you bought the wrong Walker mufflers. I would have chosen their Dynomax Super Turbos. I've used the 20" versions for years, and while they are not super quiet, they are certainly not what I would call loud. And with resonators installed on the tailpipes, they aren't much louder than stock restriction-type mufflers that neck-down 1/2" or more internally.

I have never done this, but Vizard says that using a muffler that's one size larger OD than the pipes (with adapters) will help performance. That could mean that using a 3" stock-type muffler would give you similar performance to what you have now, but not be as loud.
 

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I think you bought the wrong Walker mufflers. I would have chosen their Dynomax Super Turbos. I've used the 20" versions for years, and while they are not super quiet, they are certainly not what I would call loud. And with resonators installed on the tailpipes, they aren't much louder than stock restriction-type mufflers that neck-down 1/2" or more internally.

I have never done this, but Vizard says that using a muffler that's one size larger OD than the pipes (with adapters) will help performance. That could mean that using a 3" stock-type muffler would give you similar performance to what you have now, but not be as loud.
I never heard of that David Vizard report , but I think that would be power added while under WOT.
This looks like a street going full sized with a warmed up engine, I don't know what the o/p plans are for this car/ or how he will drive it. But most of the time under normal driving you are only cracking the throttle. A stock replacement muffler for a 1989 grand mark with 2.25 inlet and outlet isn't going to be a bottle neck till your are hammer down and the rpms are up there but with a street car just how much time will you be driving it like that and the 20 hp you are giving up at peak power at 5500 rpm+ that much of an issue. you are not giving up anything at normal driving low throttle angle and rpm.
We installed ball and socket flange at the input of the mufflers and an extra set of rubber hanger mounts at the mufflers input to hold up the muffler when unhooked. on a car that see track time 2 nuts per side and slide the hanger into the rubber exhaust hanger mount(looks like a 3/8" thick rubber o-ring ), and ready to go. That customer didn't want electric cut outs.
 
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