Asphalt would be much cheaper for sure but a few drawbacks come to mind. Asphalt is a bit softer than concrete so you will probably have trouble with jacks [floor jack for sure], jack stands, creepers and engine hoist sinking and not rolling correctly. Auto ramps and roll away boxes just to name a few. The asphalt coating is only as good as the compacted dirt and/or limestone base under it.
asphalt for garage floor?
i have a 26 by 28 garage, i'm thinking of doing another garage 30 by 40, no lift. are there any major drawbacks to asphalt over concrete? i just want this as useable garage space to work on my cars.. i have some tree's and other things to deal with, but is this a safe and worthwild alternative to concrete. for just general car care? thanks jeff
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I'd say Eddie pretty well nailed the drawbacks, and I can only add one positive to offset all of them. Oil stains don't show up near as well on asphalt as they do on concrete. 
Bottom line, it's your money and ultimately your decision, but I get the feeling most all of the members will guide you away from using asphalt.
Building inspectors may also have a thing or two against it (for the same main reason Eddie gave--it is almost too soft to consider for flooring in a shop), and the chemical smell in a confined shop space may be a health hazard--possibly even fatal. Did you ever smell a freshly paved road? Now imagine that same smell in an enclosed area. I think I'd rather snuggle with a skunk than to smell that in my shop.
In a while, Chet.
Bottom line, it's your money and ultimately your decision, but I get the feeling most all of the members will guide you away from using asphalt. Building inspectors may also have a thing or two against it (for the same main reason Eddie gave--it is almost too soft to consider for flooring in a shop), and the chemical smell in a confined shop space may be a health hazard--possibly even fatal. Did you ever smell a freshly paved road? Now imagine that same smell in an enclosed area. I think I'd rather snuggle with a skunk than to smell that in my shop.
In a while, Chet.
Petroleum breaks it down also.
Shane
Shane
Chet
Nails a problem I did not think of the smell and that would really be robust in the summer. In an enclosed area could neutralize farts to a large degree.
Nails a problem I did not think of the smell and that would really be robust in the summer. In an enclosed area could neutralize farts to a large degree.
pepi said:Chet
Nails a problem I did not think of the smell and that would really be robust in the summer. In an enclosed area could neutralize farts to a large degree.
Yeah, I thought about that, though, mainly because the city replaced the street out in front of my house this last summer. Even in the near open confines of a residential street, the smell was overpowering for nearly a week.
In a while, Chet.
with the high petroleum prices the cost differnce between asphalt and concrete might not be great
I's rather have a dirt floor and save up for concrete.
Asphalt probably cant be put down after the garage is built as it requires more space for paving equipment.
Concrete can by put in after the garage is built.
My pal just had a garage built where they set posts in caissons, built the wood frame garage and then poured the floor.
The only way I can get a bigger garage is to get rid of junk...or buy lotto tickets.
Asphalt probably cant be put down after the garage is built as it requires more space for paving equipment.
Concrete can by put in after the garage is built.
My pal just had a garage built where they set posts in caissons, built the wood frame garage and then poured the floor.
The only way I can get a bigger garage is to get rid of junk...or buy lotto tickets.
asphalt vs concrete
concrete
is a mixture of sand and gravel and portland cement.
you stir em together with water.. the cement cures within about 2 hours.
the cement will cure to within about 80% of its full strength within about a week, if its kept damp. if it dries out the cement will remain a powder and wont revert to rock.
cement becomes as strong as the origional limestone after a year or 2 again if damp.
if you weld or cut the water sometimes cant escape fast enough and chips will pop out.
------------------------
asphalt.. blacktop.. flexible pavement.
sand and gravel and oil
its a heavy oil almost can be called wax
it mixes up and works easier if its warmer
when the oil is cool it flows slower
motor oil, gasoline, salad oil mix with the oil in the origional asphalt
if the oil spilled on top is heaver than the origional oil it gets harder
if lighter it gets softer.
if it gets hot it get softer. if its cold it gets harder.
water does not mix with the oil.
if you weld or cut the oil catches on fire.
the only advantage of this over sand and gravel is it doesnt get bothered by wind. it moves around as easly just a bit slower. sand or gravel rolled and compacted is almost identical to asphalt
asphalt is like wet sand but softer since the heavy oil is a lubricant
if its broken and kept clean the breaks will repair over time
----------------------------------------------
how about bricks over smooth sand? best of both worlds
sand and gravel should be the crushed variety not the round water worn (bank run) this allows it to compact into a lot more solid base
can put pipe or wire under it and put bricks back. For that airline or outlet you shoulda put in the middle goes back in good as new.
can replace broken bricks
can take it up and smoth the sand if you get puddles, or discover the land's previous owners garbage pit.
-----------
some older industerial plants use wooden bricks .. really nice with steel wheel dollys and carts.
you can lay down on em they dont steal all the heat outa your body.
you can nail blocks or cleats to the floor for temporary jigs.
you can drop a coffe cup on em and it wont break(usually)
concrete
is a mixture of sand and gravel and portland cement.
you stir em together with water.. the cement cures within about 2 hours.
the cement will cure to within about 80% of its full strength within about a week, if its kept damp. if it dries out the cement will remain a powder and wont revert to rock.
cement becomes as strong as the origional limestone after a year or 2 again if damp.
if you weld or cut the water sometimes cant escape fast enough and chips will pop out.
------------------------
asphalt.. blacktop.. flexible pavement.
sand and gravel and oil
its a heavy oil almost can be called wax
it mixes up and works easier if its warmer
when the oil is cool it flows slower
motor oil, gasoline, salad oil mix with the oil in the origional asphalt
if the oil spilled on top is heaver than the origional oil it gets harder
if lighter it gets softer.
if it gets hot it get softer. if its cold it gets harder.
water does not mix with the oil.
if you weld or cut the oil catches on fire.
the only advantage of this over sand and gravel is it doesnt get bothered by wind. it moves around as easly just a bit slower. sand or gravel rolled and compacted is almost identical to asphalt
asphalt is like wet sand but softer since the heavy oil is a lubricant
if its broken and kept clean the breaks will repair over time
----------------------------------------------
how about bricks over smooth sand? best of both worlds
sand and gravel should be the crushed variety not the round water worn (bank run) this allows it to compact into a lot more solid base
can put pipe or wire under it and put bricks back. For that airline or outlet you shoulda put in the middle goes back in good as new.
can replace broken bricks
can take it up and smoth the sand if you get puddles, or discover the land's previous owners garbage pit.
-----------
some older industerial plants use wooden bricks .. really nice with steel wheel dollys and carts.
you can lay down on em they dont steal all the heat outa your body.
you can nail blocks or cleats to the floor for temporary jigs.
you can drop a coffe cup on em and it wont break(usually)
Just think about trying to sweep asphalt and keeping it clean etc....not good. A creeper will not roll good on it either...don't do it. Go with a concrete floor and be sure to put a moisture barrier under it also...if you don't it will sweat.
A moisture barrier will not stop a concrete floor from sweating. It will stop the mitigation of ground water through a slab if done correctly.Henry Highrise said:Just think about trying to sweep asphalt and keeping it clean etc....not good. A creeper will not roll good on it either...don't do it. Go with a concrete floor and be sure to put a moisture barrier under it also...if you don't it will sweat.
Sweating is caused by a combination of concrete temperature and weather conditions. If the concrete is cold enough and the temperature and humidity high enough the slab will sweat, regardless of a barrier.
The bricks sound good too :thumbup:
Shane
Shane
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