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Discussion Starter #1
I had a catastrophic failure over the winter. But now I'm having to build another motor. I was told the engine assembly lube u can buy form Autozone is crap even know Lucas makes it form my local engine shop. But they are 4 month backed up. For complete builds even if u bring in all thr parts.
So my question is what Lube works for assembling an engine this is a completely fresh motor all new parts. And I don't want premature failure because of lack of lubrication on Startup.
 

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How long does it stay around. See mu problem is with dome pistons i want min clearance piston to head for max compression. So my bottom end well get built first and my heads well be placed on with no gasket to check clearance and i well add shims unstill i get my clearance then i well be ordering my gaskets. But i dont want the lube to dry out before i order and get my gaskets in and finsh up the build.
 

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I've used Stay-Lube in the past, didn't have any issue with it. I don't care for the heavy grease lubes that some people like. I have used a 50/50 mix of SAE 50 and STP on a lot of engines, I like it because it stays in place. Of course cams and lifters MUST have a moly lube and it's best to rub it in, not just coat it. Don't forget to fill the oil pump with lube and soak the lifters plus lube the distributor gear. I also like to hot plate the timing set for a bit, then soak it in oil.
 

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How long does it stay around. See mu problem is with dome pistons i want min clearance piston to head for max compression. So my bottom end well get built first and my heads well be placed on with no gasket to check clearance and i well add shims unstill i get my clearance then i well be ordering my gaskets. But i dont want the lube to dry out before i order and get my gaskets in and finsh up the build.
The Joe gibbs stuff will stay in place for however long it sits. As Chas suggested it's a heavy grease and can also be used on the cam.


The best thing you can do is prime it before firing.
 

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Permatex makes a good assembly lube too.

Permatex Ultra Slick #81950 Assembly lube.

Red Line is another.

The motor oil and STP Oil Treatment mix works as well.

You're method of head-to-piston clearance check has a problem....you've got no accurate way of knowing where and how much clearance you actually have to any point on the dome....for example you put a .030" shim on here, roll the motor over and everything clears, but not know the dome only clears by .020" or less in a couple of places(which isn't enough).

You need to place a pancake of modelers clay on the top over the dome to get an impression you can actually see and measure.
Don't use Play-Doh!, it springs back and gives an error in reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right it well get primed before it gets dropped in the truck. But i got so much going on its going to take me about a month to get the motor fully together once i have all my parts. Its not was i was call a full blown race motor but should make the power im looking for maybe more then i need but thats ok
 

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And I should add, as has already been said but you can't say it enough...if this is a flat tappet cam, it must have the black/grey moly paste grease put on the lifter bottoms and cam lobes, massaged into the metal pores....any liquid lube is not good enough.

Crane makes the most commonly available moly cam paste, #99004-1 Super Moly Assembly Paste.

Gibbs Driven is another, so is Sta-Lube #SL 3331
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Permatex makes a good assembly lube too.

Permatex Ultra Slick #81950 Assembly lube.

Red Line is another.

The motor oil and STP Oil Treatment mix works as well.

You're method of head-to-piston clearance check has a problem....you've got no accurate way of knowing where and how much clearance you actually have to any point on the dome....for example you put a .030" shim on here, roll the motor over and everything clears, but not know the dome only clears by .020" or less in a couple of places(which isn't enough).

You need to place a pancake of modelers clay on the top over the dome to get an impression you can actually see and measure.
Don't use Play-Doh!, it springs back and gives an error in reading.
I know the mobelers clay trick. And planned to use it. What kind of clearances show i be looking for. Dome pistons as new to me as in i havent built a motor with them. Buddy of mine has rods and pistons setting around and he made me one hell of a deal on them so. There only 3.5 domes he said a stander head gasket would makr about 12.5 :1. So i think he is talking .040 bc that is his slandered gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
And I should add, as has already been said but you can't say it enough...if this is a flat tappet cam, it must have the black/grey moly paste grease put on the lifter bottoms and cam lobes, massaged into the metal pores....any liquid lube is not good enough.

Crane makes the most commonly available moly cam paste, #99004-1 Super Moly Assembly Paste.

Gibbs Driven is another, so is Sta-Lube #SL 3331
Its a roller cam if that makes any diff
 

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I know the mobelers clay trick. And planned to use it. What kind of clearances show i be looking for. Dome pistons as new to me as in i havent built a motor with them. Buddy of mine has rods and pistons setting around and he made me one hell of a deal on them so. There only 3.5 domes he said a stander head gasket would makr about 12.5 :1. So i think he is talking .040 bc that is his slandered gasket.
minimum clearance to any part of the dome to chamber fit is the same as he flat quench portion to the flat side of the head.... where .035" is a generally accepted minimum that will keep you out of trouble, go tighter only with either experience with this particular piston, rod and crank combination factoring in the RPM you'll run it, or direct info from someone who has.

Its a roller cam if that makes any diff
Then you won't need the moly paste unless you've got stock ball pivot rockers, the balls need the moly. Needle bearing roller rockers and you won't need it there either.. Roller cam and lifters don't use it.

What size engine??
The 3.5cc dome is only going to get you 12.5:1 on a 383 with 64cc heads, or a 350 with 58cc heads. Both zero decked and using .040" thick gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The motor set up is a 350 4.04 bore, 3.48 stroke. 5.7 h beam robs ,3.5 dome pistons, 210cc intake 59cc chamber heads 2.02 intake cam is Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 296/302, Lift .600/.600. 1.7 roller rockers
 

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According to the math, if block is zero decked, using .040" thick x 4.125" bore gasket it will be 12.38:1.

if an .035" thick head gasket existed, you could push that up to 12.57:1.,,,,but I know of no one making that thickness.
With typical 4.166" bore gasket that is Fel-Pro, then it comes out to 12.31:1

If you're down from zero deck, then you'll have to make gasket thickness thinner or loose some compression from those figures.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Im coming up with 12.48 with a 4.060 036 if they fit. But i be happen with a 12:1. Last year the motor made 293hp ave to the wheel. And that was on a 10:1 compression with a .580 flat tappit on a 14 lob sep on a factory bal. This year its a whole new set up. Im looking for 300-375hp at the wheel this year before the 100 wet shot
 

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This stuff works great for bearings:



Obviously, a flat tappet cam will need cam lube on lobes and lifter faces.

I also have a tub of this for lubing other parts, like rocker arms, pushrod tips, distributor gears, etc.

 

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I've used Comp Cam's red assembly lube and it seems like it's much *stickier* than the Lucas stuff. I had bought two small bottles of the Lucas and didn't realize how a little goes a long way, so I still have some. I use it for all types of things. For instance my girlfriends electric weed eater at only a year old, the bearing down low was starting to screech when stopping. I couldn't get to the bearing easily but was able to drip the lube down on top of the bearing. It's outlived it's useful life with the bearing never screeching again. I can't think of all the places I've used it but it gets used on a lot of things where I want something between oil and grease.



As far as breaking in a new flat tappet cam, my motor before I rebuilt it, had been rebuilt by a guy who just uses white lithium grease on everything. It sat unstarted with no oil for over fifteen years, some of them outside through winters and summers until I got to working on the car. I primed it and ran it and the cam broke in just fine. Drove it over 10,000 miles till I tore it apart. (sold the used cam, lifters, +.030 flat pistons as a "rebuild kit" on craigslist :) ) Often wonder if it ate the cam in the different block? I had the lifters numbered.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've used Comp Cam's red assembly lube and it seems like it's much *stickier* than the Lucas stuff. I had bought two small bottles of the Lucas and didn't realize how a little goes a long way, so I still have some. I use it for all types of things. For instance my girlfriends electric weed eater at only a year old, the bearing down low was starting to screech when stopping. I couldn't get to the bearing easily but was able to drip the lube down on top of the bearing. It's outlived it's useful life with the bearing never screeching again. I can't think of all the places I've used it but it gets used on a lot of things where I want something between oil and grease.



As far as breaking in a new flat tappet cam, my motor before I rebuilt it, had been rebuilt by a guy who just uses white lithium grease on everything. It sat unstarted with no oil for over fifteen years, some of them outside through winters and summers until I got to working on the car. I primed it and ran it and the cam broke in just fine. Drove it over 10,000 miles till I tore it apart. (sold the used cam, lifters, +.030 flat pistons as a "rebuild kit" on craigslist <img src="http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" /> ) Often wonder if it ate the cam in the different block? I had the lifters numbered.
I used lithium grease in the passed . but hell the last motor i fully built/rebuilt was 16 years ago .i want to just take it to the race engine shop up the raod but i cant set around for 4 months pushing tge truck in and out of my shop when i need to use the lift u know
 
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