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or Jeff, or Doc, or...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Subject: 73 Z-28 resurection


Checked quite a few relavant posts, but didn't see anything that answered my questions.

Here's the deal. My brother is in the process of restoring a "well used" Z-28. He's painted it twice in the last few years(BC/CC). Basically learning how to use the equipment. The usual "educational errors" are apparant, such as runs, drips, etc. There is still bodywork that needs to be done, such as rear quarters , blocking, etc.

1.) Will he need to take everything to bare metal again, so long as he's using compatable paint?

2.) He's a bit short of cash, so he wants to epoxy prime everything except the rear quarters. Will this be OK, as long as the car is kept out of the weather? Epoxy doesn't absorb moisture, does it? (I wouldn't think so..) He plans on hanging new 1/4s in the spring, then color paint.


(Don't ask why he's painted it twice before doing all the bodywork. Some questions just don't have answers... :rolleyes: )
 

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Two beginning paint jobs over factory and it may have been repainted once before he got it , Yes it should be stripped.

But on a budget and still learning he may want to just have a sanding day will 180 on a DA and take a good amount of the paint off.
At this point would be a good idea to coat whole car in epoxy so he does not have issues with putting primer or paint over all those broken coats.

Its cured he can use any paint, as compatibility is not an issue now.

Epoxy is water proof.
 

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I agree w/ Barry. Factory paint and maybe one repaint is a great base for new paint but sounds like there is quite a buildup on the car already. That much paint buildup will cause problems. Add to that the fact that he needs to do some body work, trying to blend thick paint, bare metal and bondo'd areas will be quite a challenge. Best to just strip it and start fresh.
 

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To do it right he should strip it, then he will know what is there.
Who knows what is under all that paint. After the 1/4s there is not much left to do. Do it right, he will sleep better.

Troy
 

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or Jeff, or Doc, or...
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A little more history:

The car WAS stripped to bare metal, and shot with etch prime. Its sat for a year before he got it. The lovely NAPA etch prime green was sanded off and epoxied AFTER bondoing in several places. Then it got painted "Hideous Metallic Green" , then Metallic Silver.
IMO, not the colors for a newbie to be shooting.
I told him to sand off ALL the paint, down to metal anyways. He doesn't mind cleaning the gun (The part I hate MOST!), so I told him to hit each panel as soon as he strips it. He can only work on it for a few hours at a time, so it made the most sense. Just accomplish what you can in each sitting. He was concerned that the primer absorbed water. He saw it on another website, that even epoxy absorbed water. Didn't make sense to me.
How long is the epoxy primer good for, before you have to color coat it?
 

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You can coat the epoxy up to seven days.
After that its a good idea to just give it a fast sand job by hand with 180-320 and spray one more coat.

This is a cover a** answer as epoxies differ but its the safest bet if you don't know or have a tech sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Barry-
If he primes it this month with epoxy, then stores the car until he gets the 1/4s ,say in March, can he just scuff it up and reshoot the epoxy or shoot it in color?
This paint stuff is like vodoo magic to me. Sorry to be anal about it.

Thanks guys ! :thumbup:
 

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Beenaway2long said:
Barry-
If he primes it this month with epoxy, then stores the car until he gets the 1/4s ,say in March, can he just scuff it up and reshoot the epoxy or shoot it in color?
This paint stuff is like vodoo magic to me. Sorry to be anal about it.

Thanks guys ! :thumbup:
Yes! scuff epoxy in march and spray one more coat of epoxy and paint over it within 7 days without sanding.
 
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