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Discussion Starter #1
hi friends, I found a posi rear end from a 67 Firebird, I want to install that into my 69 Camaro with an open rear (non posi). Anyone have any experience with this kind of a swap? I don't mind cutting/welding the perch's if it will fit otherwise.

thnx,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are they both 10 bolt or 12 bolt rear ends? Know the gear ratios?

They're both 10 bolt, the firebird rear end is a 3.73 10 bolt posi drum brakes, I believe my existing rear end is a 3.07 10 bolt posi drum brakes.
 

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As long as both rears have the same rear springs, it is a direct bolt in swap, you don't have to change anything except possibly the length of the driveshaft.... but with 10-bolt 8.2" Chevy to 10-bolt 8.2" BOP(Buick/Olds/Pontiac) I don't believe there is any pinion length difference so driveshaft should be the same..

The '67-69 Camaro and Firebird share rear ends dimensionally, the only difference is the leaf spring perches themselves...there is a shallow perch used on cars with the Mono leaf spring, and a deeper perch that is used with Multi leaf springs.

Overall width is the same, width between spring perches is the same, spring leaf width is the same, brake lines and flex hose are the same, brakes and wheel bolt pattern are the same.
The Firebird rear might have a mount for a passenger side "traction bar", but it won't matter on your Camaro, it will just be un-used bracket on the housing.

The 10-bolt BOP is considered a little stronger because it has bolt in axle retainers rather than the Chevy c-clip style axle retention in the housing.

This is about the easiest swap you could find for the '69 Camaro.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know, sounds like the BOP rear end is a much better option for me
 

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Swapping axles with the same wms is my favorite way to switch ratios. Block the front wheels before starting and loosen all your lug nuts tightening them so they are finger tight against the rims.

Measure the perches and cut if needed.
Grind the old perches down welding any holes.

Buy a new flexible line and new u joints.

When the axle is UNDER the springs I cut the U bolts with grinder leaving the weight on the springs and driveshaft connected.

Cut almost all the way through till your just about to hit the leaf pack then hit the thing with a crowbar and a 3lb and the u bolt will pop but nothing will move as the weight is still on the axle. Do it to the other side then jack up the car till the diff will clear the frame. You leave your driveshaft connected which keeps the thing from rotating.
Use a floor jack to get the tires off the ground a inch then remove the tire before setting the drumb on the movers dolly. Then do it on the other side.

Now you can remove the driveshaft bolts and the axle will not rotate(crunching your wells). Tape up the u joint caps then wire it against the side of the frame.
Manuver the driveshaft out the side or out on a angle next to the jackstand (located by the bumper) going out the back. You cut the flexible line last plugging it with a bolt to reduce mess and fluid loss.





If your axle is ABOVE the springs that changes things. I put the stands in front of the rear tires. With these I jack up the car till tension is off the shackle bolt before removing it and moving the springs down. The axle is going out the back here so you need to jack up the car higher.
Now remove the tires that will be almost against the wells and set the drums on your movers dollys or springs. You may need spacers.
Then I cut the u bolts till they are almost till the spring pack before once again using a crowbar(to keep safe) then use a 3lb to pop that u bolt. The axle will rotate a little but the driveshaft will hold it. Ratchet the pinion down between the two movers dollies so it does not rotate up. Now remove the u joint taping it up then then slide the axle out the back just now cutting and plugging the flexible line.

With the axle UNDER the springs you can just set your perches on the clean axle and then tack it before pulling it out to finish welding before bolting everything back up.

With the axle OVER the springs you will be using the old axle as a refrence matching the pinion angles setting both pinions on a level surface like a 4x4 to show you where to mount the new perches. Tack it check it then final weld it before bolting everything back up.



I buy perches from ruffstuff because you get your moneys worth.
Sometimes I buy u bolts from them because the U bolts they sell can be overkill for light weight 200-300hp rides.

Perches:
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/springperchantiwrap.html


Always put jackstands under the car with backup jackstands. It can save you if something goes bad. I work alone most of the time and redundant safety items will save you at some point if you spend a good amount of time under a car.
Always keep your phone in your pocket or near you. It makes a good light, radio, and if you get in trouble it is right there not half way across the shop or inside the house.
 

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High Performance Rear Ends
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The first gen Firebird rear ends are 1 inch wider than the Camaro rear end. The Firebird used the Tempest 8.2, which was wider. Remember the old Pontiac "Wide Trac" adds from the late '60s? The '67 Firebird rear end even had the upper eyes that were cast into the housing for the Tempest upper control arms. Other than the extra width it should be a direct swap. Some of the Pontiac rear ends used the larger 3R U joint, so an adapter U joint might be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thank you so much for the detailed instructions! much appreciated sir. my axle sits over the springs so i'll have to follow part 2 of the instructions. thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #9
doing a bit of research, I'm being told that 70 and X body GM's had the beefy 8.5" 10 bolts that were a direct fit for Gen 1 camaro's. anyone know if this is true?
 

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The X body cars didn't get the 8.5 until '72. The are nearly a direct bolt in with 2 exceptions. First, the drive shaft usually needs to be shortened by 1 inch, and second, most or all of them have multi leaf spring perches and I'm betting that your Camaro has mono leaf springs. Starting around '76 they also got the 3R U joints, which means a conversion U joint is needed to use in a Camaro.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thank you, i found a 67 10 bolt posi, but from my research I think its going to be a 8.2" carrier. Not what I'm looking for, anyone know if an 8.5" carrier was available back in 67?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Chevelle Axle

I found a 10 bolt from a chevelle (owner thinks its a 72). my research shows its about 1.25 inch wider than a 69 camaro. its a bit of a trek to go check it out and measure it, wondering if anyone has any insight if its worth trying to swap. Owner says its a 10b posi, tall gears (possibly 3.73) out of 72 chevelle. I've got a 69 camaro non slip, multi leaf. thnx
 

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High Performance Rear Ends
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The '68 to '72 Chevelle 10 bolt is the 8.2 and it's 1 inch wider than the first gen Camaro. The axles in the Camaro rear end are 29 5/8 inches and the later Chevelle axles are 30 1/8 inches. You will have to cut off the Chevelle lower control arm mounts and weld on Camaro spring perches at the correct angles. Or you could swap the internal parts into your Camaro 10 bolt. This would require setting the pinion depth, bearing preload and backlash
 

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Couldn't he swap in the diff and gears from Firebird rear into his Camaro rear?
Nope...Firebird is 8.2" BOP(Buick-Oldsmobile-Pontiac) and the Camaro is 8.2" Chevy. No major parts interchange, just a few bearings and seals is all.

BOP axles are bolt-in with a retainer like 8" and 9" Ford, gearsets are different, and differential ring gear mounting height is different.
 

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Can't use the BOP diff in the C rear end. The axle splines are different and you can't get C clips on the axles. The gears can be used, but I think you have to use a special spacer for the yoke.
 

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Okay, so that is a 'hard no' to direct interchange. Never knew that, and have never had the honor of messing with an 8.2.
 
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