[bowtieCYRUS]

Hello again,
I've been reading tons of threads on good combos and I have a good idea on what I'm after with my latest build. I bought a '72 Corvette block and had the machine work done on it about a year ago. As of right now it is a 0.030" overbore with new rotating assem. I bought a 4340 Eagle crank, Eagle forged H-beams, and TRW flat tops. It's pretty stout. Anyway, I got a set of 882 heads with some pretty heavy work done on them given to me. I just had them freshened up and decked 0.010". The motor will have an old ported Edelbrock Torker II intake and a 780 Holley from a '69 Z28 I got rebuilt. I'm hoping to get about 6500-7000 RPM out of the motor. This is going to be my first do-it-yourself endeavor since high school so I want to get it somewhat right the first time. The motor is going into a T-56 swapped '79 Malibu with 4.10's and 26x8 slicks all corners. Hopefully have it together by next spring for Infinion and Thunder Hill. Any cam, lifter, pushrod length, rocker ratio advice would be much appreciated. I have some Trick Flow 1.5:1 roller rockers new in the box (had them for a year, so it's not a big deal if I use them or not)

Thanks,
Cyrus

 

[ap72]

Elgin 1090MDL cam kit with a 98213 spring kit from CompetitonProducts.com

Pretty much the best performance you can get at such a low cost- less than $300 for everything, and it'll be more than enough lift with 1.5 rockers for those 882 heads. You'll need to maximize compression as much as you can though, flat tops and 882's are not a great combo.

Also, make sure you have your crank thruoughly checked (odds are it'll need to be ground), and if you can't run a different intake atleast get a 2" spacer, bond it to the intake (weld or epoxy) and port it out as best you can, the Torker II really suffers from being so short. Adding a spacer will not allow it to clear a '72 stock corvette roof line though.

You could also swap your new 882's for your 416's on your other engine and be ahead on both accounts...

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

Elgin 1090MDL cam kit with a 98213 spring kit from CompetitonProducts.com

Pretty much the best performance you can get at such a low cost- less than $300 for everything, and it'll be more than enough lift with 1.5 rockers for those 882 heads. You'll need to maximize compression as much as you can though, flat tops and 882's are not a great combo.

Also, make sure you have your crank thruoughly checked (odds are it'll need to be ground), and if you can't run a different intake atleast get a 2" spacer, bond it to the intake (weld or epoxy) and port it out as best you can, the Torker II really suffers from being so short. Adding a spacer will not allow it to clear a '72 stock corvette roof line though.

You could also swap your new 882's for your 416's on your other engine and be ahead on both accounts...

Thanks for the reply. I'm sorry I always butt heads with you. Anyhow, I ended up trading those 882's to a buddy last weekend for a set of alum. fastburns he had laying around from a zz4 he had. I believe they are 64cc heads. But, he says he doesnt like 'em and that they don't perform well. I heard the opposite and thats why I traded. He's using the 882's on a single T-88 434cid he's building.
The rotating assem. in my 355 is balanced to 7600rpm. I'm kinda leaning towards a good roller retrofit combo now. I heard fastburns work great with roller profile cams. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ap72]

If you're thinking of going with a hyd. roller retrofit you're really just as well off going with a solid flat tappet- if power is your only concern. They're about the same but a solid is more stable at higher RPM- so it can rev higher.

If you go solid roller then you're working with the good stuff- but its overkill for the rest of your parts that won't be able to keep up.

I'd make sure a good reputable machinist checks your rotating assembly- just because it was advertised as balanced means nothing. Eagle parts are usually on the bottom of the barrel but then can be used if you go through the extra expense of getting good machining done to them. With a t-56 your cruise RPM is going to be pretty low, even with 4.10's. I would build for max power much past 6,000 RPM- you'll never use it on a regular basis, and even if power peaks at 6,000 RPM you will need to rev past it for the lowest et's, if you plan to rev to 7,000 RPM max put your peak around 6,000 RPM (people often forget this). With the heads you have I would go with something like the cam I mentioned or LESS duration. you want to keep the lift up though to take advantage of those heads- a solid roller cam begins to look attractive but you need to get GOOD lifters, not cheap ones. It looks like you're trying to go the cheap route so I'd stick with a solid flat tappet cam and 1.6:1 roller rockers.

If you ever have to ask about the price then you really should be looking at some other route- I find that to be true in my line of work at least once a week.

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

At this point price isn't as important. I was trying to go cheap but, I always go cheap. My buddy's trying for a consistent 10 sec car. I'd love to be there with him but, I'm also wanting to road race this car. I don't think 11's would be too much to ask for. But, on the other hand 10's are fun too. My machinist is top notch and he's done almost all of my motors. He balanced it to rev to the moon. As far as roller lifters go, I get a pretty decent discount on Crane products. Something like 20%. I dont mind spending the extra money if it will pay off. I was also thinking of getting these fastburns "massaged" some. Since they are used heads I'm gonna get them checked out anyhow.

 

[ap72]

If you're getting them worked widen the PP, blend the bowl, narrow the guide and radius the SSR, 98% of your gains are found there. a 383 crank will make more of a difference than a roller lifter combo, and its cheaper- it may be something to consider. I'd go no higher than 10.5:1 compression on pump gas for this car, and even that is pushin git- it'll need a really good carb that is well tuned to keep it in good order at that level (no box stock Holley's).

I cannot stress enough that you need to keep your cruise RPM in mind when choosing a cam, even though you have 4.10s you can't cam it like other people running a 4.10 with a TH350, you need to think more like you're running a 2.73 rear if you want a nice street car- otherwise you'll never be happy in 6th gear.

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

If you're getting them worked widen the PP, blend the bowl, narrow the guide and radius the SSR, 98% of your gains are found there. a 383 crank will make more of a difference than a roller lifter combo, and its cheaper- it may be something to consider. I'd go no higher than 10.5:1 compression on pump gas for this car, and even that is pushin git- it'll need a really good carb that is well tuned to keep it in good order at that level (no box stock Holley's).

I cannot stress enough that you need to keep your cruise RPM in mind when choosing a cam, even though you have 4.10s you can't cam it like other people running a 4.10 with a TH350, you need to think more like you're running a 2.73 rear if you want a nice street car- otherwise you'll never be happy in 6th gear.

I dropped the heads off wed. after I left my shop. They should be completed by next tues.-wed. They're getting machined for new springs up to 0.600" lift for a solid or roller cam, bowl blended, pocket ported, a 7 angle valve job, and some minor chamber work. I picked up a used Holley strip dominator when I dropped off the heads for a whopping $40. My machinist was also leaning towards a solid flat tappet cam for me too. It's a melling part number, but I dont have it handy right now. I'm not all that concerned about cruising rpm, because this is going to be a track only car. So, it'll most likely be up in the rpm's when driven. And, I might build a 383 in the future, but for right now I already have money in this bottom end and I want to use it.

 

[ap72]

I dropped the heads off wed. after I left my shop. They should be completed by next tues.-wed. They're getting machined for new springs up to 0.600" lift for a solid or roller cam, bowl blended, pocket ported, a 7 angle valve job, and some minor chamber work. I picked up a used Holley strip dominator when I dropped off the heads for a whopping $40. My machinist was also leaning towards a solid flat tappet cam for me too. It's a melling part number, but I dont have it handy right now. I'm not all that concerned about cruising rpm, because this is going to be a track only car. So, it'll most likely be up in the rpm's when driven. And, I might build a 383 in the future, but for right now I already have money in this bottom end and I want to use it.

7 angles? 3 would do just fine and in some cases better... I've honestly never heard of 7... I hope you didn't get the cheap ".600 lift" springs off of ebay, they're only good for about .500" on a mild hyd. cam... What part number on the springs? And that T56 is a nice trans for sure, but will you really ever use that 6th gear on a road track?

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

7 angles? 3 would do just fine and in some cases better... I've honestly never heard of 7... I hope you didn't get the cheap ".600 lift" springs off of ebay, they're only good for about .500" on a mild hyd. cam... What part number on the springs? And that T56 is a nice trans for sure, but will you really ever use that 6th gear on a road track?

Maybe you are right. It might not be a 7 angle valve job, 5 maybe? I just know that it was more than the basic 3 angle job. I'll ask him when I pick up the heads. I dont know if 6th will get used on the track or not. I'm running the T-56 because I already had it. The springs should be good. I believe they're a COMP spring.

 

[techinspector1]

You can grind the seats and valves for as many angles as you have cutters/stones for. If you want a 101 angle valve job, you can have a 101 angle valve job, you just have to have cutters/stones to do the job and do a lot of measuring/calculating.

 

[ap72]

You can grind the seats and valves for as many angles as you have cutters/stones for. If you want a 101 angle valve job, you can have a 101 angle valve job, you just have to have cutters/stones to do the job and do a lot of measuring/calculating.

And essentailly you have a radiused valve seat- which on intake valve seats are usually avoided like the plague, perhaps only better than a single angle seat (stock type). 3 or 5 are pretty common, there are people who promote one over the other but in most cases its a wash. the width of the cuts has more of an effect than the number. those sharp ridges do have function, did you look into the profile of the face and backside of the valve? There's a lot to be gained there and most people take it for granted.

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

You can grind the seats and valves for as many angles as you have cutters/stones for. If you want a 101 angle valve job, you can have a 101 angle valve job, you just have to have cutters/stones to do the job and do a lot of measuring/calculating.

Thank you for your knowledge. Never thought I'd have the techinspector checkin' out my thread.

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

And essentailly you have a radiused valve seat- which on intake valve seats are usually avoided like the plague, perhaps only better than a single angle seat (stock type). 3 or 5 are pretty common, there are people who promote one over the other but in most cases its a wash. the width of the cuts has more of an effect than the number. those sharp ridges do have function, did you look into the profile of the face and backside of the valve? There's a lot to be gained there and most people take it for granted.

It turned out that it is a 7 angle valve job. My machinist says it will help flow. I don't really know much about it. Hopefully after I get the heads back the motor will be together by Fri. next week. Then into the malibu!!! woohoo!!! I love it when things go to plan. (knock wood)

 

[ap72]

It turned out that it is a 7 angle valve job. My machinist says it will help flow. I don't really know much about it. Hopefully after I get the heads back the motor will be together by Fri. next week. Then into the malibu!!! woohoo!!! I love it when things go to plan. (knock wood)

check to see what he's doing to the valve, I'm hoping some of those 7 angles are being cut on the valve, I could see them doing you some good there. I'm glad its coming together though, congrats!

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

check to see what he's doing to the valve, I'm hoping some of those 7 angles are being cut on the valve, I could see them doing you some good there. I'm glad its coming together though, congrats!

I just got off the phone with my builder my heads are done and just need assembly. I'm picking a cam out today or tomorrow then he'll assemble the heads and install the proper springs. I asked what a 7 angle valve job consisted of and If i remember correctly he said its a 60* cut on the valve and a 30* cut on the head for the main seat then there are more cuts from there. It sounds rather complex. Oh well, I trust his judgement. I got a crane catalog and a comp catalog in front of me right now. Looking at solid cams. I'll post some p/n's later and after I call my builder.

 

[ap72]

I'm guessing 3 on the valve and four in the throat, unless he's doing a cut to the face of the valves, which is not super common, but still done by most machinists if you request it.

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

I'm guessing 3 on the valve and four in the throat, unless he's doing a cut to the face of the valves, which is not super common, but still done by most machinists if you request it.

The only request I made was "You can make these flow better, right?" I guess we'll see by the end of this week.

 

[ap72]

I'm sure they'll suit you fine. Did you ever land on a cam?

 

[bowtieCYRUS]

I'm sure they'll suit you fine. Did you ever land on a cam?

I just got the car running last week. Ended up using an Isky solid cam p/n201035. The motor put out 537hp at the flywheel and 461ft/lbs torque. I'm very happy with the build. I towed it to Infinion last wed. night ran three passes. I ended up with a bad oil sending unit leak. Car ran a best [email protected] This is the first time I've had a car this fast! Needless to say...I LOVE IT! I have a few bugs to work out before spring, but all in all this is the best car I've ever had. I'm gonna try to run at the TX mile next year.

 

[ap72]

very impressive. congrats!