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current hot rod: CTS-V
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, long time no see. Have any of you ever used this Bars Leaks Head Gasket Repair mix? I'm about to give it a try but I can't find anyone online who's used it before. I'm wondering if it has actually worked for anyone.

I'm going to put this stuff in my beater 95 Accord. I've been getting hydrocarbons in my antifreeze for about the last 25,000 miles. A hard 30 minute ride to work or class has the anifreeze bubbling or pushing out of the cap on the reserve tank so I know I've got plenty of exhaust pushing into the cooling system.

I'm really not a fan of quick fixes but this car has 275,000 miles on it and to me it's not worth doing a headgasket. I'm considering this a science experiment.


Thanks guys, I'll let you know what happens.
 

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I used it in my Jap Bastard once. It started overheating shortly after that and finally popped the head gasket. I found the crap had stopped up a few of the tiny coolant passages.

I guess it works too well.


Larry
 

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Glad To Be Here
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Hey Ghetto Jet where you been?

Other than making the repair correctly; most "quick fix" products do not work long term.

An old method to "fix" cracked heads, cracked blocks and may work for your head gasket problem is to warm engine up and then pour in a quart of "Water Glass". This is actually Sodium Silicate and is a clear odorless liquid. It used to be available in the drugstore (ask the druggist for it) and was cheap to purchase.

It DOES work!

Sodium Silicate is also used in most anti-freeze products to protect against leaks. Anyone remember the old advertisements where nails were stuck into Prestone containers and then removed. The Prestone would be shown leaking out of the container and then suddenly the flow would stop. The product hardens on contact with air.

It was also used to preserve eggs (before refrigeration) by submerging the eggs in the "Water Glass" and covering the liquid with straw to prevent the liquid from hardening.

Another use years ago was in the construction of dioramas in museums and water scenes in Model Railroading. When a "stream, river, lake, etc." was made in the model the water glass was poured in place and it would harden. After hardening it would still appear to be liquid.

Now you all have learned something new for today. Do a Google search if you are a doubter. :thumbup:
 
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Didn't you say you already bought a head gasket? You may as well toss one on it over a weekend. Beater or not, it might not be worth much as a car, but you know its history reasonably well and it will cost you a bunch more if you have to replace it-

K
 

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Welcome back.If its a four cylinder the head gasket on those is fairly easy.Here are a couple of things I do to save some time.

Take the intake manifold loose and leave as much as you can hooked up.After you have it loose from the head push it back toward the firewall.

Instead of taking the covers and timing belt off.Get it to no.1,remove the top cover that covers the cam pulley.Take three wire ties and wire tie the belt to the pulley.Then remove the timing pulley bolt and work the pulley off,keep some tension on the pulley so the belt does not slip on the crank pulley.I use a bungee cord to hold it out of the way.After you have your new head gasket on, slip it back on.This way you don,t have to take the t-belt completely off.
 

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I agree with Frisco, we did the same thing, liquid glass worked on a honda beater a friend of mine used to have. It held up for about 8 months, we poured in another bottle and he kept driving it til the main bearings went, about 15,000 miles later.
 

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Boy talking bout bringing back old memories !! My Dad used to have an old '47 caddy with a bad radiator. Before he recored it I remember he used to pour in some stuff he called "egg keep", got it at the local drug store, always worked!! Must be the same thing.
 

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Lost in the 60's
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I have used both...the BarsLeak as well as the liquid glass.....What I always did was disconnect the heater core and make a loop ( hook the hoses together) this will keep the heater core from getting stopped up from the sealer. After you have done the sealing job...drain cooling system and refill with fresh water and anti-freeze...then hook your heater core back up.
 

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current hot rod: CTS-V
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
killerformula said:
Didn't you say you already bought a head gasket? You may as well toss one on it over a weekend. Beater or not, it might not be worth much as a car, but you know its history reasonably well and it will cost you a bunch more if you have to replace it-

K
I did buy one but I took it back when I needed some $$$.

I just bought a Mustang Cobra and I am literally flat broke right now, but hey, atleast I've got equity lol.

and Frisco, I got really busy and got away from the site. I checked HR.com out several months later and didn't see alot of familiar faces on here so I backed away. But now I need really good advice and this is the place to get it. But I'll be a steady poster for a while again.

I'll try to get some sodium silicate tomorrow.
 

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Footbraker
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One of the bosses at my old job "fixed" a leaky head gasket with bars. I was skeptical but it held up for over a year! :confused: This was in a heavy duty (C60??-I don't remember anymore) chevy truck - diesel. Might have been a one time deal but I was surprised anyhow.
 

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26 years ago I bought a 66 Belvedere with the leaning tower of suspense in it. Someone put stop leak in it...smelled kinda like Bars Leak but had no idea what or how much. Problem was my thermostat kept sticking even after flushing the cooling system and replacing the stat several times. It would work for awhile but I finally gave up and took it out and just blocked the radiator in the winter time for heat....luckily, it ran cool in the summer even with the ac on. Still have the car but the engine is long gone :)
 
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