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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im in the middle of paint and cause of unforseen reasons ,I cant start the top coats till later.I was wondering basically how long I have after the base coat is shot before I have to sand or any other work.Im talking only like over nite.Ive never been held up like this so I dont want to waste the job.Thanx for any advice.If it helps,I laid a black base to cove with clear with a real fine flake to finish.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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What kind of paint? What does your PDS (Product Data Sheet) say?

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The data sheets dont say much at all.Im usng the martin senor paint,or crossfire usually stocked by napa.All it mentions mixing and repeat coats at flash time.But nothing about cure time or top coat time.I was actually hoping the humidity here will slow down dry time and not have to much effect,Ya know,long as it has a little tack to it.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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What are you talking about it clearly says 7 days after base to clear.

"RECOAT
· Allow 5 minutes flash time between coats.
· Allow to flash 15-20 minutes @ 75° F before clearcoating.
· If not clearcoated in 7 days, scuff sand basecoat and reapply basecoat color before clearcoating".


I don't know which one you are shooting but all three say the same thing. And notice it says "scuff sand" the base before clear, don't sand it flat, just scuff it.


http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/media/pds/english/9487.pdf

http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/media/pds/english/MA4638.pdf

http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/media/pds/english/MA5211.pdf

Brian
 
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Most stuff can be found in the tech sheets. I know some times they can be confusing or not have the answer for something you need. So don't hesitate to ask here, there are no stupid questions. :D

Brian
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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For sure, the only stupid question is the one you didnt ask. And I would scuff after 24hrs just for precaution, I use Ppg and we have a 24hr window
There is no need to scuff.

Right from the tech sheet........

RECOAT

Allow 5 minutes flash time between coats.

Allow to flash 15-20 minutes before clearcoating.

If not clearcoated in 7 days, scuff sand basecoat and reapply basecoat color before clearcoating.


Brian
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Or a gray pad of course too, it depends on WHAT you are "scuffing".

Brian
 

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put up or shut up
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In every shop I worked at the painters do not like scuffing base and clearing over it. They will rather sand the base good, which will lead to break thrus and then lightly re-base, then clear. Just a thought.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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You can't really scuff the base and clear over it at all, the clear will magnify the scuffing. If you scuff you MUST apply more base prior to clear.

But FOLLOW THE TECH SHEET! Many bases have warnings IN BOLD PRINT do NOT sand the base! It will clearly say things like "nib" it or "Scuff" it which is NOT "sanding" it flat, that is two totally different things.

Read the tech sheets!

Brian
 

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base coat clear coat questtion

My spoiler on my camaro needs to repainted , clear coat needs to be redone
runs and drips , I damaged the spoiler via driveway ! , the painter #@$^ k up
left side of the car , you have too look close , I don't plan on taken it back to him :spank:
 

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put up or shut up
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You can't really scuff the base and clear over it at all, the clear will magnify the scuffing. If you scuff you MUST apply more base prior to clear.

But FOLLOW THE TECH SHEET! Many bases have warnings IN BOLD PRINT do NOT sand the base! It will clearly say things like "nib" it or "Scuff" it which is NOT "sanding" it flat, that is two totally different things.

Read the tech sheets!

Brian
Our painter knows this. He just waits til he can sand it. Just like they were saying about ecoats... just clean and paint...yeah right! That crap didn't work and that was straight from the tech sheets.
 

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You will have to re-base after you scuff it, Depending on which paint product you use as to how long you have before you can recoat or clear, As a 30+ year painter you can and will have adhesion problems if left to long before you recoat or clear, better to be safe than sorry especially with the time and expense of redoing it
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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It's wrong, I know guys who have painted wrong for 40 years and "gotten away" with all kinds of crap.

Following the tech sheet is the best way to get something done properly. And for a newbe it is of the UPMOST importance because they don't have the experience to wing it.

You have seem the thread on sanding the base right Henry? http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/int...gainst-data-sheets-recommendation-110339.html

You can skip from about the third page all the way to the last couple as the middle is largely a peeing match.

Brian
 

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put up or shut up
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3,144 Posts
It's wrong, I know guys who have painted wrong for 40 years and "gotten away" with all kinds of crap.

Following the tech sheet is the best way to get something done properly. And for a newbe it is of the UPMOST importance because they don't have the experience to wing it.

You have seem the thread on sanding the base right Henry? http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/int...gainst-data-sheets-recommendation-110339.html

You can skip from about the third page all the way to the last couple as the middle is largely a peeing match.

Brian
well I guess they're painting it wrong all the way to the podium with 1st place trophies. I'm sure there's a good reason why they do what they do but you're the expert here, or at least on-line anyways.
 
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