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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I am an electrically challenged individual. I have made my share of electrical devices go up in smoke , go phffft, and even a couple of bangs. Still I plod on..............
I am living proof that you "can't fix STUPID" even with TWO SMART CHARGERS.:rolleyes:

My latest challenge is charging a battery (actually batteries) with SMART chargers. I have one of those smart Optima chargers that reconditions a battery. I hooked it to a standard automotive battery and it went thru the recondition cycle and I left it on "maintain" for several days. When I take it off the charger it says its fully charged. I can hook the same charger up to it a day later after no use. It will analyze the battery and tell me its only at 70% capacity. I can put it in an engine test stand I have and it will crank and start a 500 Cadillac several times with no problem.

I also have a couple of deep cycle GEL batteries (60 ah). I use them in a homemade scooter that I use at large car events like the Street Rod Nationals. The rest of the time it just sits and I charge them ocassionally with a scooter charger. They do not appear to come to a full charge when charged that way. I looked at my Optima and found it does NOT charge GEL batteries.

So I bought another Smart charger that does GEL and everything else. Seems pretty simple to operate and it shows you that it is progressing through each stage in the process. It tells me that its done and the GEL batteries are at full charge.

I disconnect the charger and let them sit overnight. When I hook the Smart charger back up and let it analyze the batteries the next day......it says they are only at 70% capacity, just like the normal car battery I have.

Am I misconstruing something here, or are the batteries bad and the chargers are not doing their job?

Optima shown below. Click on the website below for the other battery charger.

617288


 

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My latest challenge is charging a battery (actually batteries) with SMART chargers. I have one of those smart Optima chargers that reconditions a battery. I hooked it to a standard automotive battery and it went thru the recondition cycle and I left it on "maintain" for several days. When I take it off the charger it says its fully charged. I can hook the same charger up to it a day later after no use. It will analyze the battery and tell me its only at 70% capacity. I can put it in an engine test stand I have and it will crank and start a 500 Cadillac several times with no problem.
i bought a noco genius 10 smart charger. it came yesterday, i mounted it in front of my 58 truk, cuz the remote entry will suck the battery down is 8 days to where truk won't start. i had truk out the day before, i hooked it up regardless and it started the charge cycle, showing 50% charge. it soon topped out and went to trickle, probably ten minutes later.
so unless your smart charger is running for a couple hours, the battery is charged, it just takes a bit for the brain in the not-so-smart charger to register that fact.
 

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You need to be looking at the amps.

The charger (most) does not know if you have a 600 or 1000 amp battery. It (most) will just charge to the voltage then when 12 volts(or max) is reached it will shut off. But that may not mean all the cells have been fully charged.

By checking amps you xan see just how much that battery has been charged.

Frankly I dont trust maintainers or any thing that I can not watch that has the potential to cause damage.

If your electrical is up to par you should have no need for a maintainer. If not a simple cut off switch is enough.

My 87 c1500 can fire right up after 3 months no issues because the thing has a clean electrical. My 04 took over a year to have the battery die. I pull the cables on that now. But the battery holds 8 to 10.

If the battery dies on its own then you have bad cells. A maintainer is just a band aid covering the real problem.
 

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Internal short between plates. This is either plates that are touching each other which makes then act as a single plate this happens in the recharge process as that is essentially a random plating process where conductive links can form between separate plates making them act as a single plate which reduces the storage capacity.

Another is the sluffing of plate material that accumulates on the bottom of the case eventually touches the plates which bleeds current between plates and or cells.

Either of these can look good after a charge but either will not hold the charge over several hours or when freshly charged losses power after giving the starter one grunt.

Time for a new battery.

Bogie
 

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The battery is the thing to need care like a plant, Extra power damage the cells and If careless about it and give them long rest then also going damage. So need to totally manage all stuff to save long life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think what happened was that I apparently did all the wrong things for a Gel type battery. The skooter I made out of an old Snapper Lawn mower and a Hoverround for use at big car events had either a lead acid battery or an AGM battery when it was just a Hoveround. It had a charger with a plug in connection to the armrest. I just used all the electrical stuff just as the factory had it, and then mechanically adapted it to the mower. What I didn't know was that apparently the charger for an AGM battery does not work for a Gel battery. You have to have a charger dedicated to charging a Gel battery. Also, apparently leaving it on the old charger doesn't "maintain" it but is actually bad for it. Now if its a smart charger with Gel capability you can leave it hooked up. Many "Smart" chargers "DO NOT" have Gel capability. My Optima smart charger pictured above "DOES NOT". Further, as I understand it , some of these batteries may contain electronics within the battery that can get screwed up by using the wrong charger or maybe leaving it on the wrong charger too long. For what its worth, I did all the things you are not supposed to do with a Gel battery.

I'm going to buy two more new batteries and expect the cost to be between $200/$300 for 60APH Gel. May just go with AGM, but I don't want to screw it up again. Thanks for the help.
617516
 

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I believe that you are only likely to get back 50% of what you put in, and unless you are using deep-discharge batteries, you should only use 30% from fully charged before recharging. If depleted below 60 - 70%, permanent damage will occur, and the longer they are left depleted, the more damage done. You should also check the voltage at the battery when charging, that is a better indication that saying "charging at 14.4v"
Having said that, I would be interested in people's opinion of De-sulphator simcasts devices. Some swear by then, some say they are a complete waste of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unless you have people with specific experience working with batteries, I'm afraid asking people like myself for an opinion will be rife with variation. Just from my own personal experience with batteries, I can tell you that I have had some good luck with car and mower batteries that the chargers have "reconditioned" for me. On the other hand, due to my own stupidity I had the Gel batteries go bad. If I had not found out that Gel takes a different charger, I would have blamed my charger for not doing its job. Then there are people who have direct drains on their battery and it keeps going dead. They also may think the charger didn't charge properly . All I can say is that I have had good luck with the smart chargers when I didn't screw it up.
 
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