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In the process of doing a 32 Tudor street rod and was wondering what guys were doing for battery location on these cars? It was on the firewall, but I am smoothing it out. Under the rear seat is too small. Seems like the only place wil; be on the frame on the pass side. Any input would be great.
 

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My '32 is not finished yet but I'm putting my 925 Odyssey in under the front pass. seat area. I built an "overkill" battery tray that bolts to the TCI chassis that will have interior access or it can be unbolted and removed from under the car.
 

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471A
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While my Tudor is a 29 A, this might also work for you. I fabricated a battery support off the frame immediately behind the differential. The battery is then installed, maintained, or replaced through a "door" within the rear floor pan, secured by easily movable screws.
 

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Henry Ford installed the battery under the floor. In front of the seat.





I have mine in both my 32's under the passenger side seat. I use a group 24 battery. A very common battery with lots of cranking power. The problem with all these " special batteries " and " special sizes " is that if your battery dies away from home ... getting a replacement can be a big problem.



Deuce ... Moderator :thumbup:
 

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Well to each his own I guess but I'll take an AGM battery over a wet cell any day, Odyssey has a service life of 3-10 yrs. Did a little research, just in the 10 western states I checked there are 278 dealers for Odyssey batts. and thats not including Summit Racing in Reno. Now if you really got stuck you could always rig up a couple of longer cables and set a battery on the floor behind the seat...till you got home or got to a dealer, not really a big deal.
 

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Just remember, folks, that when you are building that car, siting the battery "wrong" may involve some fancy exhaust routing. When I did the initial mock up of my 'A', I found that it got very congested between the frame rails so currently have that big Optima lump in the trunk. One of my planned projects for over this winter will be to attempt to find a good spot along the frame for that as well as some other wiring devices, even using a smaller Odyssey or similar battery if necessary.
 

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My battery is a RED TOP Optima :D

I have a lid over the fabricated battery box.



I like my trunk unused ... by a battery so I can put the luggage and such back there when the wife and I go on our 3/4/5 day trips away in the 32's ... :thumbup:

 

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I like the inside of the frame installs. Keep in mind that our cars are not very tough compared to today's common cars. Most of these early cars are very light often 1500-2000 pounds lighter than than those lurking to run into you. :eek:
So protecting the battery and keeping it away from the fuel tank are my priorities. The fuel tank hanging just in front of the rear bumper is far worse than the infamous Pinto. Granted not a lot of us get into crashes but it happens.

A customer of mine had just picked up his car (30's sedan) a couple days earlier from another shop and someone ran into the back of him. His gas tank just happened to be nearly empty. The impact nearly flattened the tank but fortunately it didn't penetrated and with little gas in it the tank just collapsed. He didn't have the back seat in the car so if it had punctured it would have flooded the car. His battery was right next to the tank and got flattened and shorted out. Bad deal and he was very lucky.

Just make sure the battery is mounted securely and well protected. Same with the fuel tank.

I have a latching solenoid main shut off with a switch at the rear lip of the car. Even a light tap will collapse the fiberglass and rip the ground wire loose. This will immediately shut off all power to the car. An inertial switch will do the same ...probably better.
 

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Battery location

On coupes & roadsters, I go with trunk location. If possible I do a bulkhead with door or removable panel. Under floor like original allways seems to collide with exhaust or cross members. If Tudor, behind the back seat.
WARNING = use a 1/0 AWG CU cable from negative battery post to 3/8" bolt closest to starter. #10 jumper to frame. #10 jumper from engine to grounding block under dash......steel or glass body.
I have wired over 200 rods since 1957.......I learned the hard way. Master electrician in 21 jurisdictions.
Jim
 

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