I was wondering if anyone could tell me what would be the best bet, to get better performance out of my 289ci 2v engine in my 67 mustang. I have just under $1000.00 Canadian funds to wok with. ($750 U.S)
IF you want to go low buck and your engine is already in good condition, I would recommend finding an aluminum 84-85 302 intake from that year Mustangs. Its light weight, and flows good. Its vertually Identical to the cast iron intake used on the 210 horse and 271 horse 289 of 67. You can probably obtain one of these intakes for under $100 US.
I would recommend a 500 CFM carb if you arent going to be winding it over 6000 RPM. A 600 CFM if youre going over that. Either carb will run you about $210- 220 US. You could also go out the salvage yard and snag a 4 bbl carb off of an early 70's Ford V-8 like a 390 out of a pickup. Probably could get one for $20 or so and if you are any good with carbs or have a good friend that is, you could rebuild it for about $50. These carburetors, while not the inth degree in performance carbs will do everything you want to do, and are normally in the 450-550 CFM range.
Headers are well available all over the place, and I would recommend either 1 1/2 inch primary or 1 5/8ths inch primary tube headers. Headers could run you as little as $100 US.
After that it all depends on how far into the engine you want to go.
A good cam, I would recommend a hydraulic in the neighborhood of 200-215 degrees duration at .050", for a 6000 RPM engine, and not over 225 for a 7000 RPM. Unless you are planning to run it that kind of rpm and want to spend the money to keep the engine reliable, I recommend staying at the 6000 rpm redline.
Comp Cams x-treme energy cam # XE262H would fill the bill quite well. Range is 1300-5600 RPM.
The Kit that contains the Cam, lifters, springs, retainers, seals, timing set, and assembly lube is # K31-238-3.
With this setup you would be easily at the 280-290 hp at the flywheel, or roughly 230-240 at the rear end.
If you are running an automatic, this will work great with your stock stall converter.
If you are going to tear the engine down, then just rebuilding it could cost you close to the $750 tab leaving little for goodies, other than maybe a 500 CFM Holley 2 bbl carb and headers.
If you can swing it, I would also go with a good late model ignition setup. Petronix has a conversion kit for making your stock points distributor into an electronic job. From what Ive heard they work pretty well. That could run you about $75 US. I dont know what the cam kit would be. With the ignition setup you will want to invest in some good spark plug wires as well.
First, I would consentrate on the things like the exhaust, ignition, and intake. Then see what you have left. These things can help you not only in boosted HP but some increase in gas mileage as well, and a small 4 bbl, headers, and a good ignition could get you 30-35 hp with little work, and still have some bucks left.
thanks for info & help with my 289 (what do you think of an edelbrock 1406/7carb
Thankyou guys for the info. I have saved all three of your posts to my computer. I do have a a new duel exaust system put in to the car, and my engine runs very well, and in my town of sherwood park alberta (outside of Edmonton Ab), I can pretty much beat or stay close to anyone in my age bracket cruising our town in light to light races with their (Hondas and toyotas) on weekends.....excluding my brother when he drives my moms 70 goat (judge clone) that he did not put one minute of work into with my dad and I. Spoiled little bit#*!.......anyway I was thinking of doing what you guys said and changing my manifold and puting in a 4 barrel carb. (The guy at our towns muffler shop told me today he would help me put in an edelbrock performance carb and manifold and if I work with him he will only charge me for the parts. He is a good mechanic and a close friend of my parents. But I do not know much (anything) about perfance carbs/manifolds??? Is edelbrock a good way to go?
If you want the best bang for the buck put a set of 4:11 rear end gears in your car, you will definately notice it. It won't be much of a open road cruiser but it will surely get up and go off the line.
I would go with either the Edelbrock Performer or the Weiand Action Plus, running a 500 CFM carb. That will be plenty sufficient carb for your 289, as it will carry it way out past 6000 RPM, and with your stock cam, you are going to run out of wind at about 5000 RPM, if your valves dont float first.
A cheap way to get another 500 rpm out of your engine before the valves float.
See if you can locate a set of rocker arm clips that go over the pushrod end of your rocker arm. These are for use when the engine is running and you have the rocker cover off; keeps you and everything else from being sprayed with oil.
Then get a piece of carboard about 4-5 inches wide, to fit between the rocker cover gasket seat and the valve springs. It needs to be long enough to come up around on both ends at least as far as to the rocker arm studs.
Only do this with one head at a time.
With the engine running, start with the first rocker arm, loosen it slowly,til the lifter starts chattering. Then retighten it slowly til the chattering stops, give it another 1/4 turn, and stop. Repeat with all your rocker arms. what this does increase the amount of oil in your lifter and prevents it from pumping up at higher rpm.
What actually causes valves to float with hydraulic lifters is that at high rpm, the lifter doesnt have time to bleed down the oil in it and when the lifter comes over the toe of the lobe, it fills up with oil and wont let the valve seat. By running this looser lash, you reduce the amount of oil your lifter will have to bleed off, allowing you to turn higher rpm before they start floating on you.
Since you have adjustable rocker arms, that is definately the way to go.
If in doubt talk, ask your mechanic buddy about it, if hes a performance guy.
I dont recommend going over 5000 rpm, as Im not sure your valve springs will handle that kind of rpm, and with the stock cam, thats about all you have anyway.
By setting the lifters this way, after your engine has been sitting for a while without running, when you first start it up, you may hear a little ticking like with solid lifters, until your engines oil pressure builds up. This wont last more than a few seconds and wont hurt anything. Just dont go revving your engine til its got good oil pressure anyway.
With your engine setup, if you are interested in changing gears, I wold recommend going with gears in the area of 3.50-3.76.
Most likely you are running a 2.80-3.07 at the present. The gears will make your car act like you added another 50-60 hp to it.
Thanks again for the information guys. I dont want to sound totally retarded, but now I am now wondering about the gear changes you guys are talking about. What are 4.11 or 3.50 rear end gears and why would they make the car (apear) to have 40 or 50 more horsepower.... would they be good for 1 block light to light street races? Are they very costly.
3.50 gear ratio: your drive shaft turns 3.5 revolutions to your tires one revolution.
4.11 gear ratio; your driveshaft turns 4.11 revolutions to your tires one revolution.
I guess the easiest way to explain this is this way.
Start out in second gear, full throttle, then do it in low. You will see a big difference in your ability to accelerate.
Now imagine a starting gear lower than the one you have now.
The drawback is that your engine will be turning a few hundred more rpm at highway speeds than it does now. Im calculating between 12 and 16 % higher. So your engine would be turning from 250- 400 more rpm at 60, than you do now, that being with a 3.50 gear. You will notice a lot quicker acceleration from it.
A good gear set will run you about $125- 160 US, plus having them put in. Installing ring and pinion gears requires special tools and they are precision parts. Tolarances are critical with them.
Going to 4.10 gears will give you an increase of 35 - 47% in rpm, depending on your current rear end gear.
The 4.10's would definately be the way to go for the stop light grand prix, but you also have to drive it daily and those gears would suck your tank dry in no time.
The 3.50 gear is probably your best compromise between economy and performance for your engine car etc.
One other thing, going to a deeper gear, will induce traction problems, so you might want to consider some traction bars at the least, and installing a positive traction set up in your rear end at the most.
What a posi does is allows you to drive your car in the normal manner, but if you have a wheel that starts spinning, the rear end will lock up and turn both wheels. Living in Canada, I am sure you have seen stuck cars in snow etc, and only one wheel turns, when youre stuck. A posi will cause both wheels to turn, doubling your traction.
An aftermarket posi for your 8 inch rear will run you about $425- 460 US. And in my estimation, a very worth while investment. It sure beats all your horses going up in smoke as one wheel burns down to the rim.
get a 4v manifold and holley carb shadbolt cams hear in vancouver grinds a 340dodge profile on the 289 cam ( similer to the 271 hp of that era ) set of new stock lifters and roller timeing chain you should be under 1000cn. it will go very well i have used that cam profile inmany small blk fords with excelent driveability. if you want the old cast manifold i have on for 50 cnadian. you also havve to stay with a older manifold as watter ports ar smaller so if you go to a wreckertake a int gasket withe you. need shadbolts no email me at [email protected]. good luck cliff in surrey bc
Thanks for the tips. If I was to go with one of the the gear changes, would it be better to do the manifold/carb change first, or would it be smarter to go with the gear change and posi first and worry about the carb upgrade when I save up a little more money....Or do you guys think, if I left the engine totaly original with the two barrel carb and put in the 3.50 or 4.10 gears it would be enough to handle the new asian imports in street light battles?
With that intake, now if he could only come across an old flat top Ford/ Autolite 4 bbl carb, he would be in business. Those ranged in size from 480-550 CFM, and that would be the ideal sizes for his engine.
The intake would definately be the cheaper way to go first. That is what I would do. The intake and right carb size will net you about 15-20 hp on your upper end.
NXS, sounds like you was working with about the same figures I was on gears and tires etc, although I was working with two different tire sizes as well as the gears. None the less, our numbers come out pretty close. My figures were with 25 and 26 inch tires, which is why I was coming up with percentage differences.
I agree that gears are the quickest way to acceleration, all else being equal.
And what you say about horse power being an illusiory item, thats true. Its torque that gets the job done.
I was just working with the old off the assembly line option tires, E and F 70's for size. They make some street legal slicks now in those diameters, 60 series 15's. Goodrich T/A radial slicks, 235/60R and 275/50R X15's are both 26.1 inch in diameter.
Hoosier makes them too but they are a lot pricier, and not radials to boot.