What i needed mostly was lifting the tail end of the trans over the frame. Which was a little awkward reaching across that far, but why lift when you can add another come-a-long to do the lifting for you?
The simple way to do it to me would be roll the car forward a few feet to be outside the door then pull the engine and roll the car back in. Or turn the car around and use the area of your shop that the door doesn't cover..
It all turns into a matter of each solution creating another problem... I can't turn cars around that easily because I'm on a semi-main street with a single car width driveway and no street parking, and this engine eventually goes into the non-running 1956 Mercury setting in the driveway. It is a 16' door, there's room for 2 cars side by side at the garage before the deck, the second space is occupied by a 1960 Valiant in the middle of a brake puzzle (long story short, I can't find 1960 brake shoes, 1967 brake shoes fit but have the self adjuster, and that uses different hardware than I have)
The trans cross-member had to come out to pull the engine, so the trans needed to be supported by a jack. And that meant I needed to get underneath to remove the crossmemeber. I'm getting too old for creepers, I like sitting instead of laying on my back when I'm unbolting frame bolts, so this operation needed to be done on the 4 post lift. But that added a foot.
I did think about taking off the wheels. It would have been an option if it came to that, but like I said using another come-along to lift the tail of the trans enough to clear the front of the frame got me to where I could start lowering the engine until it was out.
Trouble is when removing engines with or without tranny's once the weight of the load is lifted the body of the car rises. In the past I've resorted to even letting air out of tires to get over the radiator bar etc. Best idea as mentioned earlier is to do it outside in the open if possible.
You need to be careful of driveway slope when lifting outside. It is only a few degrees. But when you have a engine/transmission at max height that few degrees is all you may need to tip over 1000lbs onto someone. I have done it twice before building my truck crane. Lifted piles make for fun engine removal even with the front axle on the ground.
Thats why the thing has 4 jacks. It lets me level it even on a hill while allowing me to pick up the back of the truck slightly. So all the truck is doing is holding the thing from tipping forward.
If you use 2 ratchet straps around the tailshaft and up to the hoist chain you can pull it up and have the engine level then lower the engine so just the pan is above whatever you need to be over before perferably moving the truck back. But if need be pulling the crane back.
I kinda did the same thing you did. I didn't have the levelor, I just used a chain. When I pulled my motor, the trans dropped down so I wrapped a ratchet strap around the tailshaft and the engine lift hook then ratcheted the trans up until it was almost level......out they came!
Shorten your chain off the end of your hoist. And save your money for a bigger garage. If your door rails are not against the ceiling for your overhead door than I would raise them to put the door closer to the ceiling.