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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok i have an 85 c10 that i want to use to learn how to paint. About there motnhs ago my buddy helped me with the boddy work and we sprayed it with duplicolor primer with a spray gun. I finally got my compressor and gun and stuff and now i want to attempt to paint it. So what i am going to do is buy pretty cheap stuff for my 1st time. Today i went and bought a small can of duplicolor sealer . I sanded down the fender with 320 grit and sprayed it. It looks 10 times better than just the primer we put on there. I know it is supposed to be smooth and it pretty much is but there are a few almost microscopic bumps. The can says non sanding. How can i correct the bumps or will the paint lay smooth on top of that. I plan on using acrylic or urethane enamel.
Please dont flame me for using cheap paint . Im just using it to learn.
 

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Non-Sanding just means you don't have to sand as long as you recoat within the recommended window. If there is a blemish, just let the sealer completely dry, then sand as necessary. You will have to re-seal before you paint. You should also finish sand with a bit finer grit paper at least 400-500 grit. Some people go as fine as 600. You should also get the P-sheets for the products you are using. These will tell you exactly what you can and can't do with the product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
how smooth should it be? it is pretty smooth but not as smooth as glass its hard to explain kind of like it has a small texture to it

also if it comes out good could i use a clear coat over the urethane?
 

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Also to add to 57's info, considering the type of primer / sealer you have on the car a smarter choice in paint would be an acrylic enamel to prevent lifting. Only other thing I would add is spend the money on a good hardener so if you need to redo a panel you won't have any sensitivity period to worry about.

In other word I would buy the cheapest paint such as Omni or Nason and buy the hardener for Delstar or Centari.
Than mix 8:1. This way you can make repairs till your a pro and it won't break the bank account.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok oreilleys sells nason for 110 a gallon is that a good deal? what exact kind of hardener would work well with it? and about how much paint would i need? its a shortbed and i wont be painting the inside of the bed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
how much for the delstar hardener?

also would it be possible to mask of some racing stripes ? i want red paint with white stripes(just an idea) or would i definitely have t o use a clear coat to get rid of the line where the colors meet or could i just wetsand? also would it be better ti pain the white first and then mask it?

1 more question.. would i have better luck with using a BC/CC? i hear it is easier to fix mistakes. is the price about the same except i have to buy a gallon or so of clear?
 

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Last time I looked, I think the hardner was about $40/pint.
Yes stripes are always possible, just have to wait at least 10 hours before you mask (enamel w?hardner).
You will have a line if you use just enamel. Not really feesable to wetsand the line to get smooth. Line will fade lose crispness.
Would be easier to paint stripe colors first, less to mask off.
BC/CC definately better, easier, and faster to get colors on, but pretty pricey.
If this is just practice, I would suggest practicing with what you will want to use on the real thing.
Most paint shops have a mistint pile you can get off colors pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so for bc/cc i would need about a gallon of paint a gallon of clear and what else just the hardener what kind of prices am i looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well i definitely want to stick closer to 250 , i can afford that can someone do me a favor and make me a list of what i will need brands too, that way i can go tommorrow to the paint supplier with the list and check it out.
 

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You need to see if that sealer will let you put BC/CC on it before you go to the store. I am not familiar with that brand, so am not sure if it will work. BC/CC uses a stronger reducer, and could lift that sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well i just got like a small 1 quart can to practice with im not set on using it. Just add the sealer i need to the list please
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the only thing i can really use as a basis for what it will cost me is the House of Kolor site for a BC/CC with a primer sealer, reducer and hardener would cost about 400 bucks how much cheaper would a different brand be does nason carry bc/cc bc i have only seen the urethane and enamel cards
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
oops i was out practicing with that sealer and my dumb *** accidentally mixed it with reducer instead of acetone it looks kind of powdery oh well at least i am getting practice
 

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May not have made a difference! Lacquer type products beat the VOC law by saying mix with acetone (no VOC'S) and thinner or urethane reducer is better but illegal for me to tell you that, so I didn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just picked up some omni torch red acrylic enamel i know this is some pretty shi**y paint but i got it for 118 with the reducer and hardener just to practice with. i just masked off most of my truck and shot the roof tonight it seemd real easy to shoot compared to that sealer i was paracticing with and it went down pretty smooth can someone tell me if i can buff this stuff out or should i wetsand with 2000 grit first? or would that mess it up also how long should i wait
 

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Omni is just the lesser line of PPG. It is far better than any of the other "cheap" auto paints out there. I find it very easy to use and it's my default choice unless something else is required.
As far as the color sanding. If it is a solid color paint, you can wet sand a little and buff. If it is metallic, sanding or agressive buffing is out. The metallic flakes lay under a very thin layer of paint. Any attempt to color sand will likely expose them and the will begin to deteoriate.
 

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I never use anything finer than 320-380 before applying sealer.

Troy

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