[bk2life]

DBW stock is lazy as described up above. But we live in 2021 now. You can fully tune the computer to do what you want. Your foot is not faster than the speed of electricity, meaning, you want to move the throttle pedal 10 degress and have 100% full throttle, done. You want topush a button (tow mode) and have a different lazy throttle for the wife/kids, done.
Also a 5.3 with exhaust and cam is darn near 450 hp, and still getting over 22+ MPGs. The you pull it yards around me has them for sale $325 complete minus ac compressor.. leave the 6.0s for the guys that think they have to have them. You want more power down the road? Add a turbo. You can have a reliable 600 hp at the wheels all day long, and practically still cheaper than a 6.0. --for what its worth, i drive my LS swapped toy more than my 383, 454, or 496 toys just do to the MPGs and smoothness.

 

[123pugsy]

I haven't priced them out recently, but I can buy 5.3 LM7s all day for $250-400. The last 6.0L I bought was north of $1000. I do agree, and I prefer the 6.0L for the bigger bore, but if he's just looking for a cruiser and wants a cheap buy-in, I don't see an issue with a vanilla 5.3L

Agreed. Just sayin' if a fella knows deep down that he likes power, well, keep it in mind is all.

 

[curtis73]

Agreed. Just sayin' if a fella knows deep down that he likes power, well, keep it in mind is all.

Who doesn't like more power?

 

[cerial]

1hp for every 10lbs of vehicle weight is my rule. Most LS can meet that minimum without to much tuning. Being able to run a factory longblock that I can grab and throw in over a weekend is a big win in my book.

I have done the heavily modified thing. Both building and buying them built. Everytime the things were nightmares. From the thing costing a crazy amount (cash and time) to playing detective on how the thing was built to something heavily modified(stroked) when a junkyard swap would have made more sense.
Give me that junkyard 5.3 longblock anyday vs a stroked 6 or 4 running a bit of boost.

5.3's are swaped into everything for a reason.

The only issue with a LS is that it is not a ohc engine. This would make changing cams and (multible cam profiles(sliding/pressure)) so much easier then the single cam setup. I was hoping the C8 (with more room) would change that. But nope. The cam bearings on a LS can be "fun" when they need to be done. Another reason to keep your tune within the factory 5.3 longblocks limits.

 

[fossilrider]

Thanks again guys. I take it then, that the '99-'07 LS 5.3 (LM7) is what I will start looking for. One last thing: I have been told that , at some point these engines made a big change (I think it is when they started with cylinders being dropped once up to cruising speed?). I hear that there is a fix for this but I would rather not have to deal with that, if I don't have to. I also have a question about using a Camaro clip, but I guess I need to go over to a different forum for that. Once again, any advice is welcomed.

 

[RWENUTS]

Camaro clip is doable but I used a 80 gmc clip. They are within 1/8 inch difference in height and the same width as stock 58. Grafted in just in front of the front cab mounts. Big plus was steering box kept to the outside of frame.
Guys over here can give you options.

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[cerial]

Active fuel management and displacment on demand started around 2005. The cam(etc) needs to be replaced and some things plugged off for it to be deleted.
I have stayed with dbc engines at this point and have no first hand experence deleting or servicing them.

 

[fossilrider]

Thanks guys. I might end up changing the cam in whatever LS I end up with but I'd rather have any changes as simple as possible so will try to find an engine earlier than the '05. So, if I am reading this correctly, the DBC ended when the change was made to the fuel management and displacement on demand started? Sorry to keep asking so many questions but, like I have said, I have been out of the rodding scene so long I am completely clueless on the newer stuff. Thanks for bearing with me. Steve

 

[39 master]

I have an '03 LM4 (5.3) in my '39 and it has drive by wire. I've seen the VVT delete kits for under $120. No need to change the cam BUT if you are there why not. New oil pump while there too. I have not seen the "lazy" throttle on my car and I like the idea of no holes in the firewall. Most likely your family car is DBW, just about everything is now. If you do have another vehicle that is DBW could you live with a street rod with it? Your call.

 

[cerial]

You can shut off the DOD electronically but that won't help with the main issue of the system which is stuck lifters. To properly delete the system you need to change the cam to a LS7 or other non DOD cam.

Usually when the lifter sticks it causes wear on the cam, the pushrods, and the rockers. The DOD engines tend to burn a bit more oil in the DOD cylinders then the earlier non DOD engines.

Good news is that $500 200k blocks non DOD/DBW engines are not hard to find. If you ask or put a wanted post out they will come to you. I have one extra 2001 5.3 now and hope to have another 2 within 2 years as backups.

If your happy with 300-350hp(like I am) then just keep the thing as stock as possible looking for a DBC engine and be happy. $500 will get you a engine good for another 100,000 miles before something goes bad. As long as you don't mess with the longblock and have a spare in the back of the shop somewhere when something happens you will be able to pull one and bolt up the other in a weekend.