[68NovaSS]

You enlightened me on the return line requirements for my 220HR pump. I submitted a query to the BG tech people a few days ago and can't wait any longer for a response. JEG's has sent me two rolls of -10 braided fuel line to exchange at my leisure, for the -8 I had ordered. JEG's tells me I need a -10 primary fuel line as well; your site calls for a -8.

My question is, with the 220HR pump, 5000 filter going to an 8-71 383 SBC with 2 BG 750BC's, Pro Street car, which primary delivery size do I use? If I upgrade to a BB motor, will the -8 be enough? I will use the -10 all around if the pump can support it on the motor side, no problem.

Also, can I put the bypass regulator and return line on a 'T' where one side would be out to the regulator and return line, the other side to the 'Y' block feeding the dual carbs? the BG tech plumbing site doesn't provide for a 220HR pump with dual carbs.

Thanks again, Larry

 

[camaroman7d]

Larry,
While I am not [email protected] (obviously).

I would suggest you run #10. I have a similar combo to yours and I ran #10 with a BG fuel pump. You will be better off running the larger line and if you want to run a big block later it will be in place. #8 is just about the same size as 3/8" fuel line, #10 is closer to 1/2" line.

Royce

 

[68NovaSS]

My sentiments as well. My concern was whether the 220HR pump has the capacity to support a -10 supply line. Logically I would think once the fuel line is fully charged and pressurized, the supply requirement would match the demand. What pump are you using and are you running -10?

You've probably seen a few of my posts, well I finally got my block back, splayed caps, everything balanced and all, so I'm on a roll again, geez, my computer room is covered with parts waiting for a home. Right now I'm tossing the gapless ring thing around, C&A or TSeal..leaning toward TS because of the rail support thing vs. the small overlap with the C&A's, not much but it all helps. I'm not clear if TS offers top ring gapless or second ring gapless, their website isn't real clear about it, but I'm considering the max seal (?) set. I know the gapless issue has been bounced around here a lot lately so I need to look back at some posts, my pistons are JE' -31cc.

Thanks Royce

 

[johnsongrass1]

The type of ring to run is largely dependant on the honing process. Do you know what's been done there?

 

[68NovaSS]

Not specifically, just that he honed it for moly rings. I could find out if necessary.

 

[camaroman7d]

I ran the BG220 HR Fuel Pump. Yes, I ran -10 from the cell to the Y block and from the Y block to my two carbs I ran -8. I did run a return line as well. My return line was -8. On my currnet projecy I will probably run a -10 return as well.

As far as the gapless rings go, I have run both Childs & Albert and Total Seal. I have no complaints about either brand. My blown engine has Total Seals in it and I am running a gapless top ring as well. When I called and talked to them about it that's what they suggested for a blown application. The N/A engines I used them in were all gapless second rings.

Hope that helps

Royce

 

[68NovaSS]

Push

 

[68NovaSS]

Royce, if you were running 12# of boost, what tooth count did you have on you upper and lower pulley's?

My 8-71 pulley's are 8mm and are 54 bottom & 63 top, supposed to be good for 5-7#'s on a 383, and that's at about -14.3 under-driven, and about .86:1 ratio.

I've considered swapping them but that would make it 17% over-driven at a 1.17:1 ratio. I'm concerned it would put me at too much boost without O rings.

Curious what tooth counts you ran (you had a 388, yes?) while still living on the street without O ringing it. Seems like 12#'s of boost would give you an awful lot of boost related compression. Guessing your drive ration was in the area of .9:1 or more?

I'd really appreciate some specs if you don't mind, I know you used the Cometic gaskets.

Thanks, Larry

 

[camaroman7d]

Larry,
I am also running 8mm drive and it is set at 10% under driven. I will go out to the garage in the morning and get the tooth counts for you. Yea, the engine is a 388ci SBC and yes I have seen 12lbs of boost on the street with pump gas (91 octane). I was very careful when setting up my quench and I also have aluminum heads. My static compression ratio is 8.47:1 (I cc'd everything and opened up the chambers in the heads to get my compression to where I wanted it). Since I am running 6" rods dished piston choices were limited. I already had the rods so I used them. If I was starting from scratch I would have went with 5.7" rods. I am also running a boost retard to keep me away from detonation.

Also one more point about the rings, mine are gapless top and second rings, not just the top.

Boost is a decieving measurement. I have good flowing heads, large port manifold, all port matched. If I took my blower and put it on another engine with small port heads the boost would be higher even with the same drive ratio, the heat in the manifold would also be higher. I think the fact that I am running the 8-71 and have large ports it helps me get away with running 12lbs of boost.

I just ran out and checked my pulleys the lower pulley is a 52 and the upper is a 58.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Royce

 

[68NovaSS]

Good information, I'm running the aluminum Dart Pro-1, 215, 64cc heads and a 5.7 rod and will port match everything as well. My static is 8.4 using JE -31 dish pistons. I haven't cc'd anything yet to verify my numbers. I haven't researched the thickness of the Cometic gaskets and I instructed the machinist to set the pistons .010 in the hole hoping that will give me a reasonable quench. Been told quench is not quite as critical in a blown application but there's no substitute for detail, what did you end up with for quench? I've successfully ported iron heads in the past but would hate to cut up these Darts unless they were way out of whack. I'm a little concerned with the cam Lunati recommended (which I bought), it's their #50139, RRA-282-290 grind with .501/.502 (w/1.5), 224/232 I/E @.050, 112 LSA, and I'm using 1.6 rockers. I told their tech I felt that was a lot of duration and he reassured me that with 112 LS it was 'just what the doctor ordered" so to speak. I also have an MSD 6BTM, anxious to learn where to set retard when I get it running, the dist is a mechanical MSD.

I can only find the TS Max Seal M0690-5 (.030) gap-less top rings commercially, is there a part# or can you tell me where you were able to get a gap-less top/second ring and are you using an evacuation system?

I appreciate all this information, your combination obviously worked very well.

Regards, Larry

 

[camaroman7d]

Wow!! I didn't realize how close our combinations were. You have the same heads as me except mine started off as 72cc. My dish is not as deep as yours so that's where the difference is. In any case we have just about the same compression ratio. As far as porting the heads, I wouldn't be to concerned, they are going to make big power anyway. I ported mine when I was using them on a N/A engine. I then just port mached them or my manifold to them. With the blower you won't really need to port them. It might buy a little power but, trust me you are going to have more than is needed already.

As far as your cam goes that is a good grind, it is not far off from mine. My cam specs are as follows 248/257 @ .050, .520/.534 lift with 1.5's (I am running 1.6's so actual lift is .554/.570) my cam is also on a 112 LSA. I can send you a sound clip/video of my car idleing if you would like. Sounds similar to a blown alky car (not quite as radical).

The quench issue, is really a touchy issue with some people. Some don't believe in it at all. I wanted my quench just right because I knew I was/would be pushing the limits. I talked to a LOT of people about it and some said it doesn't matter in a blown application and others said it does. As you have probably found out, when you start talking blowers/boost there are many different theories. I did my homework and formed my own opinion (much like you have done).

I have to run my son to school but, I will look up the part number for the rings I used. I should still have the paperwork. I am pretty sure both top and second ring were gapless, you have me secondguessing myself now. I'll check and let you know for sure.

I did not run a evacualtion system but, it is a good idea. I may add one to my current project. I did use a breather tank similar to the ones used in dry sump systems.

My cam is also a solid flat tappet.

Royce

 

[68NovaSS]

I'd enjoy the sound clip, sure many others here would also. If it's not possible to link or post it here, you can certainly email it from my profile, looks like my address is in there.

Funny how a little interaction and sharing ideas can boost the enthusiasm factor when the energy level is low for a project. The project has been going for a couple of years, the chassis and body work took it's toll on me for a bit.

But man, now I'm ready to roll, just need to clear some serious space in the garage, re-inventory my stash and hope it doesn't snow any more so that I can have 'her' side of 'my' garage for a while. When momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy!

I hope others aren't too burned out by the number of post messages they're getting, but there's some seriously good information here for those considering a blower. Like you, I'm prepared to help anyone with a question about my project or steer them in the right direction.

Larry

 

[camaroman7d]

The part number for my rings is: TSR-M369065 (file fit so they were .065) They cost me $227.99 from Summit Racing.

After looking through the desciption they appear to be just the top is gapless. I know I called them (Total Seal) and this is the set they recommended for a blown application. It's been pretty close to a year and my memory is fading, I must be getting old, LOL.

I do not know how to link my clips, they are on my PC and I don't have anyplace to host them. There are a total of 3-10 second clips. They are .3gp files and this site will not allow me to upload them.

To view them you must have real player V10 (version 10).


Royce

I will send them to you via e-mail.

Well I tried but I can't attach anything to the e-mail the way the profiles are set up. Send me an e-mail to [email protected] and I will respond with the clips attached.

 

[camaroman7d]

Larry,
One other thing you need to chech. I forgot to mention to you is your intake manifold. If you have the standard intake it is not going to match up to your heads very well. The ports on my heads were showing above the standard blower intake. I think there are pictures posted on my site. I had two choices, either weld material on the intake and then machine it, or buy a large port manifold from The Blower Shop. I chose to go with the new large port manifold (it is a very nice piece). I was told about this manifold from [email protected] back when i ran into this problem.

If you have your heads and you intake try to match the two up and see what you have. I wouldn't want you to run into it during assembly as I did.

Royce