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If you're not gonna rev it to the moon, either should be fine. If you are, forged crank just to be safe, they aren't too terrible more expensive.

My 496 has 20cc dome pistons on zero deck, the heads have 119cc chambers, comes out around 10.3:1 iirc. Mine is in a 445 casting block and did not require any clearancing.

Are those heads"raised exhaust port" heads? If so, don't be surprised if you have to smash a header tube or two. I have race rite ovals, and darn glad they are stock exhaust port location heads, driver side header barely clears everything, passenger side looks to have way more room for stuff. This is in a mid 60's a body though, not much room for anything.
 

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What's your budget? Not just the cost of the motor, but having to build the car not to disintegrate around it(roll cage, trans, rear end,etc) The supporting cast is just as if not more expensive than the engine itself.

I asked about this myself and got talked out of it, way too much of a project that I wanted to tackle, including the money. Mainly the money as I'm not rich.

Have you ever ridden in a blown big block car? I have and it is a violent experience, you'd get used to it, but the first time was like getting hit in the back by a freight train, not very funny watching the gas gauge move just as fast as the speedometer if your the owner either.

Figure on using an 8-71, more volume with less rotor speed means less heat, less heat=less chance of detonation.

Call dyers blowers, I spent over an hour getting most of the deal explained to me, never tried to sell me a thing either. Other than someone who owns one, they can fill you in.
 

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454 or 496 blown on pump gas.
-7.5-8.0:1 compression ratio, 6-8 psi boost. Will need forged steel crank and better than stock connecting rods, forged pistons flat top or dish depending on head combustion chamber size. Crank will need to have twin crank keyways for blower drive hub or harmonic balancer drive reliability.
-8-71 blower, a water/methanol supplement injection to help cool the mixture during boost, and a boost retard ignition, the injection and retard could allow the use of boost up to 10-11 psi on the street, twin 850 cfm carbs or 950's
-Aftermarket 12-bolt, Dana 60, or 9" will all work(but avoid a stock housing 12-bolt).
-TH-400, 4L80E, or aftermarket PowerGlide for the trans,(700R4/4L60-65-70 or TH-350 won't have a chance). Stall converter doesn't need to have real high stall but does need to be built to handle the amount of power put out, a $200-300 "2800 stall" is not going to live long, figure $800+ for the converter, 9.5 to 11.0" blower spec converter.
-DART/Brodix/AFR/ProFiler for heads, talk to both them and the blower company to find out the best spec for the use and power you want. -Supercharger...Blower Drive Service, Mert LittleField Blowers are a couple that come to mind. but there are others out there. Not Weiand/Edelbrock/Holley
-2" headers and 3" exhaust would work, 2-1/4" headers 3.5" exhaust would be better.
-Don't forget a stout driveshaft, along with it really ought to have the frame boxed(it is open channel from just behind front tire to just before rear tire, a weak section that should be boxed shut. Probably should have a cage, minimum would be at least a rear half 4 point roll bar but that won't be legal without a door bar on the driver side if you even intend to go to the track.
- if staying with stock suspension in the rear, will need to be all aftermarket arms, and have all the frame mounting points reinforced.
-Radiator shouldn't be a big issue, these cars have a large core support area for radiator mounting. A good big aluminum core should do it.

Between engine parts, blower, and the parts for drivetrain, trans, fuel system, ignition and all the little bits you probably looking at $30,000.
motor parts is 8k in a stock block(another 3K aftermarket block), trans 2K, converter 1k, rear axle and suspension parts 3k, blower, carbs, water-meth, ignition 7-8k...and then you've got all the little things like roll bar, frame mods, wheels, tires, driveshaft, exhaust, radiator, waterpump and pulleys to fit wit the blower dive in the way, fuel pump/lines/filters/regulators, tank sump or cell

Big power costs money...then beefing everything else up to that power standard costs as much or more....otherwise it just sits in the garage busted all the time if you try to take shortcuts.
See what I mean? Couldn't help it, too good not to give credit where it's due.
 

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Depends on how wild you drive is how the rear end and transmission will do.

My car still has the 8.2" 10 bolt in it, when I have the money, I'll get a 9", still has a factory th400 as well, same deal there. Have a 3000 stall converter though, so that's different.


Depends on how wild you make it, same with any engine, is how fast it'll go. You can either get power from rpms, forced induction, or cubic inches. Guess which is easiest to live with on the street.
 
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