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Slider in Wa.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let`s talk about sand blasting please. I hear that to blast with sand , causes pitting. Does not the pitting create a better surface for primer to stick? Would several layer of primer not cover the pitting? (filler primer?) If there is plenty of metal, why is this a problem? I know they sand blast prior to powder coating. Please advise.
Thanks Slider in Wa.
 

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OK, lets talk about blasting....is you "Q" on sheet metal [body panels] or heavier guage structures i.e. frame/suspension components?

You are correct in that sandblasting provides excellent adhesion for paints.

The big problem with blasting sheet metal/body panels is warpage. Sandblasting generates heat, so care must be taken to not concentrat blasting in one spot, use lower pressure & hold nozzle @ an angle to surface.

Primer [esp two componenet urethane primer surfacers] will easily fill pitting left by blasting.

"Q"?
B58
 

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Slider in Wa.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am referring to blasting (with Sand) the body of a 1954 truck. The metal is guite thick. I want to completly disamemble the body and get ever surface, down to metal, properly preped, and protected prior to starting a project to chop the top on a 1954 C.O.E. i have in mind to buy. I am trying to do all the preplanning and leg work frist. I would like to figure out what the cost of this long term project will be. Thanks.
Slider in Wa.
 

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For body panels I wouldn't recomend sand. Media blasting is fine for sheetmetal with the right kind of media and the right person behind the gun. They have a certain media right now that is perfect for serface. I will look into it and get back to you on the type of media best to use.

HK
 

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Slider in Wa.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think chemical stripping would not be very expensive as well. Do you recall how much stripper it took? did you just wash it off into the ground?
Slider in Wa.
 

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Chemical stripper works too. If you use the stuff por-15 sells its enviromentally safe goes farther than aircraft snot and is less exspensive too. One bottle did my trans am, but a COE might need 2 or 3 so probably about $75 worth.

HK
 

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Slider in Wa.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That new iron cross pix is too cool !!!!! Thanks for the information on strippers.
Slider in Wa.
 

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It took two cans, ~$30. Actually, when you paint it on and it is finished doing it's work, there is no liquid residue! The stuff soaks into the paint so when you scrape it off, all you have is a relatively dry pile of paint shavings. Let it dry overnight and all you need to do is sweep it up. Incidentally, sweep it up B4 you start welding on your body. Don't ask me how I know to do this.
 

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Well . . . you know how welding throws off sparks . . . and you might imagine that a pile of loosely packed paint flakes soaked with hot solvent might be a little bit flamable . . . . and you should be able to imagine what might happen if you pile these paint flake under a shower of welding sparks . . . well, you get the idea, no reason to bore you with more of this story.
 

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Slider, you can blast your older Chevy and not worry too much about warpage. I hate blasting but sometimes you need to get to the bottom of the rust so you can make sure it does not come back. Stripping is great to remove paint, but you still have to get rid of any old bondo and deal with the rust. Some local monument (tombstone) companies do automotive blasting on the side and are experienced enough not to damage the sheet metal. ( my bud recently had a 66 corvair convert blasted in and out and no warpage and your truck to be has more metal than it. Big disadvantage is getting rid of all the grit afterwards. Seems as tho you can blow and wash and blo and tilt and still have sifting sand when it come paint time!! What are my credentials? I've worn out one 6hp two stage compressor and put over 10 tons of sand thru a 90# blaster in the past few years. The newest truck we did was a 74 Ford. We have done some blasting on a 66 Mustang but not the hood or deck lid. The blasting on the doors was limited to the frame only after the skins were removed. One interesting thing I ran into was blasting the center hood sections of a 36 Ford PU. I blasted the out side first and about 20% of the curl came out. Then I did the back side and it returned to shape. Same happened on the other side!!

Trees
 

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Slider...Blasting will be fine on something of that year. Just remember to not hit the surface direct on meaning do not blast 90 degrees at the part. Lay the nozzle off to the side and kind of blast across. If you do not have an industrial blaster then set your angle a little higher and keep moving. You keep it in one spot and you stand a chance of warping. I've had various parts on my '62 blasted with no problems. It will create a rough surface though so it will take a couple coats of filler primer. Care should be taken on vast areas of sheet metal as in the roof and hood so do not spend a lot of time on these areas all at once. They will heat up but they will cool fast also. Just don't hesitate in one place too long. If you are going to do it yourself why not get a junk hood and try it out first to see what the results will be. Get a newer hood as it has thinner sheet metal, practice on it, then you will be absolutely sure when you do the project. Try one side by going across, then do the other side by hitting it head on then hesitating to see how it warps. The best way to do something right the first time is to see what it is capable of on something else.

Kevin
 
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