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Depends on the what “forged internals” really is meant by you. Pistons, better rods, crankshaft and main bearing caps are the typical replacement items when adding boost at competitive levels. Normal street boost is 6 to 10 psi. More than that takes a pretty fancy set up.

Assuming by boost you mean some form of super charge rather than nitrous.

Life span of the block goes down as the power goes up. Additionally, how you use that power counts occasionally on the street can be reasonably long time, in competition the life span gets consumed pretty quickly. So in the end any useful comment needs some understanding of what your doing with and to this motor.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Depends on the what “forged internals” really is meant by you. Pistons, better rods, crankshaft and main bearing caps are the typical replacement items when adding boost at competitive levels. Normal street boost is 6 to 10 psi. More than that takes a pretty fancy set up.

Assuming by boost you mean some form of super charge rather than nitrous.

Life span of the block goes down as the power goes up. Additionally, how you use that power counts occasionally on the street can be reasonably long time, in competition the life span gets consumed pretty quickly. So in the end any useful comment needs some understanding of what your doing with and to this motor.

Bogie
well i planned on running a twin turbo setup through a holley sniper, and by forged internals i mean all the works this is going to be a drag motor going into a 95 pontiac firebird formula
 

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Much over 700 hp and it won't matter how good the internals are, a stock block just won't take it....and twins will easily go well over that figure if you are doing it right.

An aftermarket block is a much smarter place to start than trying to truss-up a stock block to stay together..
By the time you start machining it....Bore, hone w/ a torque plate, splayed 4 bolt caps, line bore and hone, decking square, plus clean-up and magnaflux and any oil passage detailing.....you are getting very close to the cost of a Dart SHP block.
 

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Why are you considering a sbc at all?
There are lighter and/or cheaper options that will produce 700hp if not more with the ability to tune "for the track" moments before a run as conditions change.

Dont start with the engine. Start with the rule book, then the chassis/cage, putting the body on a diet, then once you have your shell you can start thinking about power and how to get that power down without breaking.
 

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X2 with ericnova72, 700 hp is more than a production block will sustain. You need to look at a Dart, GM Rocket, or World block. The production SBC block will loose a cylinder as in just blow the wall(s) out or bust out the main webbing taking the bearing cap(s) and crank with it.

If your not going to use an aftermarket block then the next best advice is to go with a Gen III or up. They are a much sturdier block than the factory Gen I or II.

If the block structurally fails it won’t matter what unobtanium parts you stuffed it with the whole shebang is gone.

Bogie
 
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