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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
short story: My setup wasn't right and the epoxy primer coat had a texture to it, sprayed some color on top, and im wetsanding the whole car to get the imperfections out.

details: its single stage ppg shopline that covers very well. some spots have me busting through to the epoxy primer.

question: will the epoxy primer and topcoat (they are fully cured) give me trouble when i respray just color?

I'm at a genuine crossroads. part of me says re-shooting the sealer might be the right way to go but then the substrate will be staggered but most of me thinks that with proper surface prep (400 grit) everything will be fine because its epoxy which doesn't "soak" paint like 2k primer would.

The trunk is the worst offender so I'm thinking about using it as my test panel for just reshooting the color.

Automotive parking light Car Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood


kinda feels like i'm rolling the dice either way so I should probably go with the simpler option. thoughts?
 

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Shooting more sealer is the safer bet for sure.
 

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Be careful, too much product leads to cracking as it ages out.

More sanding might be the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Be careful, too much product leads to cracking as it ages out.

More sanding might be the way to go.
this is what im mostly worried about since i'll know if it doesn't cover well enough immediately.
the key here is the single stage element. if it doesn't cover well enough i can just sand it back a bit and spray again later.
 

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When people say "epoxy primer coat", I assume theres bare steel under it. Not an existing finish of unknown thickness.

When people say "re-shooting the sealer", I assume thats a urethane primer-sealer.

Whats visible (to me) in the pic is two shades of grey.

If you are using epoxy over existing finishes and or filler, as sealer... yes a possibility exists that you'll end up over ten mils thick.

If what you showed is epoxy primer on bare metal covered by sealer covered by single stage, I say re-shoot sealer to help keep featheredges from swelling because the color is more likely to do that.

When people call epoxy epoxy in one sentence and sealer in another, thats confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When people say "epoxy primer coat", I assume theres bare steel under it. Not an existing finish of unknown thickness.

When people say "re-shooting the sealer", I assume thats a urethane primer-sealer.

Whats visible (to me) in the pic is two shades of grey.

If you are using epoxy over existing finishes and or filler, as sealer... yes a possibility exists that you'll end up over ten mils thick.

If what you showed is epoxy primer on bare metal covered by sealer covered by single stage, I say re-shoot sealer to help keep featheredges from swelling because the color is more likely to do that.

When people call epoxy epoxy in one sentence and sealer in another, thats confusing.
first off, thanks to everyone for their input.

ppg shopline epoxy primer and sealer are interchangeable. 20 years ago everyone i knew just called it sealer.

full disclosure:

1. I did strip the care to mostly bare metal, then 2k'd (what i use is DTM), then blocked, then sealed.
2. where i don't sand through the topcoat will have 2k, sealer, then topcoat and i'm going to pile on another 2-3 coats of color.
3. its been 2 months since i boned it the first time and won't shoot for a minimum of another 3 wks if that matters.

this is right before i did the crappy paint job so you can see the 2k and the spots where i bused through/made some last minute touch ups:

Wheel Tire Bicycle Vehicle Hood


Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood
 

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Shoot it with primer again, block, touch up any "break through" spots, shoot primer again then block and top coat. I like to let mean ol mr. sun bake my primer prior to the final blocking. 600 is the final cut. The one medium coat of color followed by two "wet" coats. No color sanding and buffing on this car. Been painted for six years now, many days out to shows and runs. No paint issues.
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