Bought a dipstick. What is this extra part with it?
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This is to add oil, the aluminum part on the hose end fits into the top where the dipstick pulls out. The open hose end fits over a funnel to guide the pour from the oil bottle.
Bogie
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To add to 2old2fast’s comment, you will find the fit tight between the aluminum fitting and the receiving end of the dipstick tube so before you do the installation you might want to turn that end of the fitting down a bit so the fit is somewhat easier as once the dipstick tube/hose is installed it can be a bear to get the fill fitting together. Also, check the dip stick level from old to new if you can so as to be sure they match. Plus the oil tends to run off the plastic dip stick, I found roughing the surface a bit with 320 grade we/dry paper helps keep enough oil on to easily see where the level is at.
Bogie
Bogie
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608 Posts
That oil fill tube doesn't matter unless you don't currently have an oil fill cap.
It's all the same as their transmission fill tubes, which require the adapter, so I guess they included the adapter for aftermarket situations where you don't have an oil fill cap in the valve cover.
It's all the same as their transmission fill tubes, which require the adapter, so I guess they included the adapter for aftermarket situations where you don't have an oil fill cap in the valve cover.
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4,265 Posts
Yea, those universal kits come with some junk you do not need.
I prefer to run without a dipstick. Just plug the holes in the block. One less thing to mess with.
Shows level and the condition of the oil at a glance on level ground.
Half a dozen ways to do it. I just did this one this way because of how the exhaust was routed. Just make sure you use the proper tube rated for oil and temp. I use tubing from McMaster to make all my sight levels.
www.mcmaster.com
I prefer to run without a dipstick. Just plug the holes in the block. One less thing to mess with.
Shows level and the condition of the oil at a glance on level ground.
Half a dozen ways to do it. I just did this one this way because of how the exhaust was routed. Just make sure you use the proper tube rated for oil and temp. I use tubing from McMaster to make all my sight levels.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com
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464 Posts
Thats nice. Id like more information on how and where you put the sight glass. I cant tell from the pic what im lookin at.Yea, those universal kits come with some junk you do not need.
I prefer to run without a dipstick. Just plug the holes in the block. One less thing to mess with.
Shows level and the condition of the oil at a glance on level ground.
Half a dozen ways to do it. I just did this one this way because of how the exhaust was routed. Just make sure you use the proper tube rated for oil and temp. I use tubing from McMaster to make all my sight levels.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Joined
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4,265 Posts
Your going to need your pan.
A step drill bit
A hand file
3/8 brass barb fittings with one end threaded
Nuts to thread over the threaded ends
A welder
Some VHT paint of your choice
And the Tube linked above in my last post. Order 2x what you need in case you mess up. 3 feet is often enough. 3' of the 3/8 will cost you around $40 to your door. But you need the correct tube.
If you have say a 4 quart pan with a 1 quart filter. Then you pour 4 quarts of water into a pan to find the level that the oil will sit at.
The top of ypur tube needs to be higher then this point without hitting anything rotating.
Drill 2 holes just smaller then 2 nuts into the pan high enough but not to high as it will allow anything rotating to hit.
File the holes a bit with your hand file so they are octagonal before inserting the 2 nuts tightly into the holes so they are half in half out and weld them being careful to weld to the nut not the pan letting it cool to avoid warping the thin pan metal. Weld both inside(as good as possible) and outside then fill the pan full of water checking for pinhole leaks. Taking your time here is important. You can use some temporary bolts to plug the holes with a bit of silicone which will let you fill the pan above where oil will ever be ensuring no leaks. Just be patient and check and double check for leaks before moving forward.
I like to paint my pans bright or have a area bright around the tube area before painting it with some VHT paint. The pan above painted with clear VHT then once dried I masked off the area before painting the rest of the pan with VHT flat black.
Once the paint is dry install the pan on the engine with or without the gasket. It just makes the next parts easier.
Thread in the lower 3/8" 90 degree barb fitting into the nut with a light coating of silicone on the threads.
You want to thread the bottom one in so it is pointing towards the other when tight. Very tight as you will not be removing this lower one again.
Thread in the upper 90 degree fitting without any silicone so it is pointing at the lower when tight. If it is not pointing at the lower one when tight then you will need to slightly modify your first thread so that the leading edge is for instance 180 from where it previously was.
Thread it in and then once it is determined it will fall in the correct rotation remove it and install a thin layer of silicone on the threads. Thread the upper in then back it out 45 degrees.
Now the fun part. This needs to be done before the silicone dries. Coat the lower 90 barbs with grease and push the tube onto the thing until it bottoms out. Do this in one fluid motion.
Drop 4 fuel injection clamps over the hose so the adjustment side is facing away from the pan. Measure the hose so when the 90 degree fittings are facing each other the hose bottom out against the upper 90. You want this tight as possible while still making sure it is not to long. 1/8" short from bottoming out top and bottom is usually perfect.
Cut the hose to length at this point. Grease the upper barb fitting.
Now with one hand pull the middle of the hose out while pushing the top onto the barb. The hose has just enough flexibility to make this possible. Once the hose is half way onto the barb grab a piece of wood and hit the side of the fitting turning it that 45 degrees until it is tight which will force the hose up further.
Now slide youe 2 lower clamps and 2 upper clamps over the barb fittings and tighten them down.
Once your engine is in the car sitting on a level surface with the proper amount of oil inside you can use a marker to mark the location. Overtime the hot oil will stain the inside of the tube making a mark. But until this point refresh the mark from time to time at oil changes.
Now if you mess up well most factory steel pans are cheap enough. The tube really won't come off those barb fittings once on so that will need to be cut off and thrown away if you mess up. But thats why you ordered extra. If you break one of the brass fittings(hard but not impossible) just thread in another.
If the upper threads stick into the pan you can carefully grind them off making sure to let it cool a bit before continuing so you do not get the silicone to hot. Then wash the pan out with oil of course to remove any debris.
If you use a turbo and want a oil return. Do not use a T barb fitting on the lower fitting. The returning oil will be shot up your sight tube and create a windage issue. Drill a new hole for the turbo oil return.
A step drill bit
A hand file
3/8 brass barb fittings with one end threaded
Nuts to thread over the threaded ends
A welder
Some VHT paint of your choice
And the Tube linked above in my last post. Order 2x what you need in case you mess up. 3 feet is often enough. 3' of the 3/8 will cost you around $40 to your door. But you need the correct tube.
If you have say a 4 quart pan with a 1 quart filter. Then you pour 4 quarts of water into a pan to find the level that the oil will sit at.
The top of ypur tube needs to be higher then this point without hitting anything rotating.
Drill 2 holes just smaller then 2 nuts into the pan high enough but not to high as it will allow anything rotating to hit.
File the holes a bit with your hand file so they are octagonal before inserting the 2 nuts tightly into the holes so they are half in half out and weld them being careful to weld to the nut not the pan letting it cool to avoid warping the thin pan metal. Weld both inside(as good as possible) and outside then fill the pan full of water checking for pinhole leaks. Taking your time here is important. You can use some temporary bolts to plug the holes with a bit of silicone which will let you fill the pan above where oil will ever be ensuring no leaks. Just be patient and check and double check for leaks before moving forward.
I like to paint my pans bright or have a area bright around the tube area before painting it with some VHT paint. The pan above painted with clear VHT then once dried I masked off the area before painting the rest of the pan with VHT flat black.
Once the paint is dry install the pan on the engine with or without the gasket. It just makes the next parts easier.
Thread in the lower 3/8" 90 degree barb fitting into the nut with a light coating of silicone on the threads.
You want to thread the bottom one in so it is pointing towards the other when tight. Very tight as you will not be removing this lower one again.
Thread in the upper 90 degree fitting without any silicone so it is pointing at the lower when tight. If it is not pointing at the lower one when tight then you will need to slightly modify your first thread so that the leading edge is for instance 180 from where it previously was.
Thread it in and then once it is determined it will fall in the correct rotation remove it and install a thin layer of silicone on the threads. Thread the upper in then back it out 45 degrees.
Now the fun part. This needs to be done before the silicone dries. Coat the lower 90 barbs with grease and push the tube onto the thing until it bottoms out. Do this in one fluid motion.
Drop 4 fuel injection clamps over the hose so the adjustment side is facing away from the pan. Measure the hose so when the 90 degree fittings are facing each other the hose bottom out against the upper 90. You want this tight as possible while still making sure it is not to long. 1/8" short from bottoming out top and bottom is usually perfect.
Cut the hose to length at this point. Grease the upper barb fitting.
Now with one hand pull the middle of the hose out while pushing the top onto the barb. The hose has just enough flexibility to make this possible. Once the hose is half way onto the barb grab a piece of wood and hit the side of the fitting turning it that 45 degrees until it is tight which will force the hose up further.
Now slide youe 2 lower clamps and 2 upper clamps over the barb fittings and tighten them down.
Once your engine is in the car sitting on a level surface with the proper amount of oil inside you can use a marker to mark the location. Overtime the hot oil will stain the inside of the tube making a mark. But until this point refresh the mark from time to time at oil changes.
Now if you mess up well most factory steel pans are cheap enough. The tube really won't come off those barb fittings once on so that will need to be cut off and thrown away if you mess up. But thats why you ordered extra. If you break one of the brass fittings(hard but not impossible) just thread in another.
If the upper threads stick into the pan you can carefully grind them off making sure to let it cool a bit before continuing so you do not get the silicone to hot. Then wash the pan out with oil of course to remove any debris.
If you use a turbo and want a oil return. Do not use a T barb fitting on the lower fitting. The returning oil will be shot up your sight tube and create a windage issue. Drill a new hole for the turbo oil return.
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