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1950 Ford Pickup truck master cylinder was replaced a corvette dual master and 7'' booster with 4 wheel drum brakes. There is a 10lb residual valve in the line to rear end then teed to each wheel. The front has the same a 10lb valve and teed to each wheel. Used a hand held vacuum pump and bleed the back with no problems. However the front is full of air on both wheels. I don,t see any leaks at any fittings and the only difference is front brake lines are about 5" or 6" above the master cylinder where they go over the frame and connect to flex line. Any body got fix for this. THANKS GOWSER.
 

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Have you tried pressure bleeding? I made mine from a piece of aluminum plate with an air chuck that c-clamps over the M/C. I use a small paint regulator and set it at 15 PSI. Just be sure to keep up with the fluid levels (which requires removing the adapter each time).



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gowser said:
1950 Ford Pickup truck master cylinder was replaced a corvette dual master and 7'' booster with 4 wheel drum brakes. There is a 10lb residual valve in the line to rear end then teed to each wheel. The front has the same a 10lb valve and teed to each wheel. Used a hand held vacuum pump and bleed the back with no problems. However the front is full of air on both wheels. I don,t see any leaks at any fittings and the only difference is front brake lines are about 5" or 6" above the master cylinder where they go over the frame and connect to flex line. Any body got fix for this. THANKS GOWSER.
The mc should be bench bleed prior to installing the brake lines to it and bleeding the rest of the system.

The line that loops higher than the mc reservoir can hold air unless there is a lot of pressure/volume to blow it out through the brake cylinder- so the best bet is prolly going to be pressure bleeding it as said.

You can do your own vacuum or pressure bleeding w/these (or similar) set-ups.
 
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