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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a chevy truck. Haven't found the VIN yet (anyone know where the VIN plate is supposed to be?) but I know its 64-66. Non-wraparound windshield and the side vent windows. The plan is to sell my current truck (98 F150) and use that money to make a daily driver out of the old truck. That means power steering and power brakes at the very minimum. Fall/Winter are coming up so I can wait on A/C. I have few engines sitting around and the SM420 thats in it is in great shape.

I have a couple rear axles that I can use if this one isn't up to the task. But what are some easy junkyard swaps to get me a booster and discs up front? How about power steering box? The front end has a bolt-in crossmember, so an M2 front suspension isn't out of the question, but I don't need to go nuts with expensive custom stuff. I'm thinking about stuff that is available at the salvage yard or the parts counter.

I'm going for a Rat Rod kind of appearance but the mechanicals need to be ready for cross-country/daily driver duty.

 

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Revolution Calling
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^^ Link shows the spot to look for a VIN tag.

Truck pictured is a '65.

'73-'87 Saginaw PS box will bolt up. In fact the entire crossmember and front suspension will. '73 up steering parts are bigger.

Brake booster could be this one.

Nice truck. I see a Texas plate.. Any rust?
 

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Car? Truck? Who Cares
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That vin could be located anywhere in the door opening.

I have seen them on the A pillar, top of the door opening, on the back of the door opening midway from the gas filler to the roof, and have even seen them in the door jamb.

Might even be on an ID plate on the driver kick panel..

64 had the C-10 emblem on the fender----different shape

I have a 64 short-wide as a project for my boy---just started HS
 

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Get in, sit down, hang on
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I see most of this has been answered already.
I had 2 donor trucks ... a 1976 C10 2WD and a 1979 C20.

Front Suspension / Steering:
The front suspension cross-member from the 73-87 is all but a bolt-on!
One hole to drill and one more to elongate slightly.

The 79 steering box looked brand-new and fits nicely if you use it with a bracket made by REZ engineering. I'd suggest use a 73-81 steering box because it uses SAE 45° flare fittings on both the box and pump.
(82+ use metric o-ring fittings which are prone to leakage.)

I also used the steering linkage from the 1976 C10, and sway bar from the C20. The idler arm is slightly different, but it's just a matter of drilling a couple of new holes in the frame.

Rear End:
The rear end in that truck should be adequate ... it's likely a 14-bolt 8.875" ring gear truck diff with a 3.73 gearset. GM used this same diff in the newer 1/2 tons as well. The only mod I have planned for mine is a posi differential.

Brakes:
Classic Performance Products (CPP) makes 6-stud rotors that can be used with the newer spindles and calipers. I opted for a set of these rather than buying 5-stud (conversion) rear axles.

I swapped the 11 - 5/32 x 2-3/4 rear brakes assemblies ( backing plates, hardware, shoes) from the 1976 C10. I had to order '76 K10 4x4 drums, but they slipped right on.

You will have to use some different wheels, however. The '65-66 stock 6-hole wheels won't clear the calipers OR the fins on those bigger drums.

I also went with the hydroboost braking system, and plan to use a M/Cyl - mounted proportioning valve from an Astro van.

Have a look at my journal. It has a list of NAPA part numbers and pictures of the nessecary mods to the cross-member.

The best part is that the complete running gear is all from one series of truck, so it's a 1976 C10 when it comes to ordering any replacement steering or brake parts! :thumbup:

PS.
That VIN plate is rivetted to the TOP edge of the driver's door opening.
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow... great info. Thanks all.

I actually have a hydroboost sitting around that a buddy at the parts counter hooked me up with. I also have a 10.5" FF 14-bolt with 3.73 posi that I'm really tempted to sneak in the back. It won't need it now, but I am thinking really hard about going diesel later and the stock rear might not like it.

Which begs the question... what about C30 (or HD C20) front crossmembers/suspension pieces? Are they a bolt-in as well? I'm just thinking that if I go 8-lug in the back, I might like to have 8-lug up front as well.

Dreams of a 4BT/NV4500 are forming in my head....
 

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Get in, sit down, hang on
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I believe that the 73+ C20 / C30 front clip is identical to the C10.

I DO know that they both use the same springs.

A diesel-powered 66 would be fairly unique!
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I'm a bit of a diesel freak. I used to work with it a lot. I have a former co-worker/friend who has a home-built 3.9 4BT in a Ranger that is putting 450 hp and 700 lb-ft to the ground and he can easily turn 30+ mpg. EGTs never go past 1100, and he even set it up to run veggie oil if he wants. I love going to the diesel drags and seeing the 7000-lb dually trucks that towed a trailer with the tubbed Camaro turn in 11 second timeslips and then tow it all back home getting 20 mpg. What's not to love? :)

I'm planning a Duramax for a 66 Bonneville that I'm building, too. Which, by the way uses 3/4 ton spindles and brakes from a 76 C20 and a 10.5" FF from a Frito Lay Step Van.
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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6,303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
C-10 said:
^^ Link shows the spot to look for a VIN tag.

Truck pictured is a '65.
Do you mean the truck in the link, or my truck?

Nice truck. I see a Texas plate.. Any rust?
Minimal. The front right fender behind the wheel has a small spot of rot, and the roof has the typical perforations in the drip rail. The cab mounts look like they've been done recently, and I manage a body shop, so the rest is gravy. The body is remarkably straight.
 

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WFO
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Tough to find a hood w/o rust. If yours is solid, you got something. I had a '65 and a '66. These trucks are getting harder to find all the time.

I was never one to worry, but still- I never liked riding w/20 gallons of high-test 4 inches from my backside! lol
 

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Get in, sit down, hang on
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cobalt327 said:
Tough to find a hood w/o rust. If yours is solid, you got something. I had a '65 and a '66. These trucks are getting harder to find all the time.

I was never one to worry, but still- I never liked riding w/20 gallons of high-test 4 inches from my backside! lol
Hood:
I was lucky enough to find a fairly good used one. There is no rust on the front lip, and it's just starting to blister at the RH rear side where the rear brace is. It's about the only major panel that I can't seem to find for this series of truck.

Fuel Tank:
A lot of guys mention converting to an under-box fuel tank. Apparently a tank from a 73+ suburban will mount up between the frame rails, behind the rear diff.

I've seen the guys with the 67-72 trucks getting pretty creative on how to handle the fuel filler tube issue.

One method was to hide it behind a swing-out rear marker light. Another (better?) method was to build an enclosure for it and have a flush-mounted billet aluminum fuel cap in or near the stake-pocket hole next to the tailgate.

Myself? I'm thinking of just having an electric-release fuel access door on the side, with a metal enclosure to protect it on the inside of the pickup box.
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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6,303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
cobalt327 said:
Tough to find a hood w/o rust. If yours is solid, you got something. I had a '65 and a '66. These trucks are getting harder to find all the time.
Well then count me lucky... no flakes. There is a bit of surface rust through the paint on the outside, but nothing rotted.

I was never one to worry, but still- I never liked riding w/20 gallons of high-test 4 inches from my backside! lol
I did it for years in a 69 before I knew better. I have a tank that was fabbed up for another project that I think will fit between the frame rails... if I can find the gauge sender for it :)
 
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