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I smell like a hotrod!
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I broke a bolt trying to remove my old thermostat housing. I drilled a 3/16" hole through the center of the bolt, and bought the bolt removers that you hammer in and then turn with a wrench (the square removers)....well I did that and hammered it in about 1/2"....needless to say that is now broken off into the bolt.
when I hammered it in it seemed to crack a one side of the bolt I think this is why it didn't come out....I have been soaking it with WD-40 and I have about 1 thread showing above the manifold (not flush in manifold).

Can this be taken out or will I need to buy a new intake?
 

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20 Posts
Probably the easiest way, would be to get a helicoil kit, usually about 20 bucks, drill the bolt right out to the size that the helicoil requires. Can't remember the size, but it will be bigger than the bolt and threads. Then you will be good as new.
 

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Banned
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3,532 Posts
He can't now that the easy out broke off in the center.


If you can, try to pound another easy out next to the one that broke off. You may have to drill a small hole next to the broken easy out to get the new one in.
 

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I smell like a hotrod!
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Are you suggestion just trying to get the original easy out first with another easy out?
 

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Member# 3287
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2,625 Posts
That will just cause you more grief.

Try knocking the easy-out loose with a chisel or drill a nearby hole as suggested to remove it.

That done, drill the broken bolt out. You can usually do this with increasing sized drill bits...provided your holes are centered which never seems to be the case. Eventually, you'll destroy the integrity of the broken piece. Patience.

It would be best to do this with the intake removed, however the area under the housing is just water jacket, so any filings will hopefully drop to the bottom of the block.

Lastly, helicoil.
 

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I smell like a hotrod!
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265 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks MI I think I will run with that.....the opening is masked off by the intake is still on the block..if I was to take it off I have another intake to put on....However, I am trying to avoid taking the intake off. I start by trying to pry or drill the remover out.
 

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Use a torch to heat the "easy out" red hot, let cool and repeat until the piece is soft enough to drill. Welding a nut to the offending piece will get the whole assembly out in one piece (weld through the hole in the nut), you may need to weld a few nuts on before you get the piece out, MIG is ideal for this.
 

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Marcel
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413 Posts
Food for though

To remove a broken bolt. determine the size of the bolt, not the wrench, the diameter of the bolt. Use a drill at lest 1/8 smaller, get it punched in the center before you start. tap it light until you see it's centered. After you drill it, if its possible, heat it red hot, which will expand it. Then cool it, and it'll contract causing it to loosen (somewhat). now for the easyoutm I prefer the sq.'s over the rever twist. Now the important part, get a wrench as close as possible to the bolt, this puts all the pressure apply'd to turning the bolt, and not twisting the easyout. apply a little pressure, while watching the bolt, if it doesn't move easy, but does move a little, revere. and try tighten it a little. It you can work it forward an back slowly, it'll come out. You can't rev. directions with a twist easyout is the reason I prefer the sq's. If all this fails, remove the easy out and drill the hole out 1/16 at a time until you can see the threads, then take an ice pick or something Sharp pointed and pick the bolt threads out. If some deb re fall's in the hole, use a small magnet to pick them out. lol
 

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i've never had any luck with those easy out.i've take a couple blocks to the machineshop to have the easyout and the bolt removed.usually once you breake of the e.o. its over unless as you said its sticking up an inch.you need to use a cut off wheel and cut off the affected portion of the bolt top.i'm assuming its an iron manifold you didn't say.if so maybe you'll have enough room to double nut it and back it out.tack weld a nut to it.you're most likely going to need heat with what ever you do.
might be best off removing it and soaking it inwd-40 or something before it becomes impossible to work with.the machine shop isn't cheap.i some times have been able to use the cut off wheel to grind 4 sides on the bolt to use a wrench on.but you'll still need the heat most likely.don't heat it more than it needs.try to expand the bolt hole.
 

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Marcel
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413 Posts
broken bolts

O n those broken bolts, most water or manifold ( anything around heat) break off flush with the threaded part. It'll have a high or point in the middle. file, grind, or use a hammer and punch to make a flat in the center so you might get the hole in the center. Once you've drilled that hole off center, you got trouble. And remember, most bolts break while tryings to loosen them, which leads me to believe, they tight. if you're tightening them, they are easier to remove, if you didn't bottom them out in the hole.
 

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ASE Master Tech, Fabricator
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937 Posts
Broken bolt extraction is one of my specialties, other shops often send me stuff because I can save them time and money over them trying to do it themselves. I would recommend welding a 5/16" or 3/8" nut on top of the whole mess, wait till it cools, spray it with penetrating oil, then work it out, back and forth, (like out a 1/4 turn, back in 1/8th, and so on). If the nut breaks off, just repeat the process. :thumbup:
 
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