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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking of building a 327 and do not know wich way to go with it.Do I stroke it and go for the chevy 302 or just do my own build.Any suggestions on what I could do to this thing? I am looking at a good screaming engine build. It will be a streetcar but just barely. Mostlt strip (1/8 mile).
 

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Build it right the first time
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for a 1/8 mile strip car you want brute low end torque, so if the 327 block you have is a large journal then put a 3.75 stroke crank in it to give you a 383 stroker, a 302 is a high winding top end motor not good for 1/8 mile, but if you have a small journal 327 build a 327.......
 

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Where's Lonestar when you need him? He's the Hipo 327 guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
327

The engine was removed from a 63 or 64 Chevy pickup.I believe it was the orig. engine. I have not checked to see if it is small or large journal. Being that old I would think it should be small. I don't believe the large journal came out until 68 or so. 383 strokers are very nice engines but I want something different. Around here it seems the 383 is under every Chevy now. But if that is the way to go that is what I need to do.But I would rather build a 327 you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
327

You see I also have two 283s. One from a 61 Chevy pickup and one from a 66 blazer. See where I get the idea 302.
 

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327`s are great motors and have their place. what is your intentions for this motor? Street/strip, street only race only? what kind of car? I built a 327 years ago that ran low 12`s on pump gas and was my daily driver. for a simple streetable motor go with a set of flat tops, vortec heads, rpm intake 650 holley and something like the lunati voodoo series 268 cam. there are several ways to build it. if you want to build a 327 then build it. don`t let everyone else tell you how to build your motor. Everyone told me to build a 350 but I wanted a 327 and it was faster than the 350 those guys were running. I never got any more crap from them about my "little" motor.
 

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I LOVE 327,s and yes its a small jrnl. steel crank, large started in '68. If its original then its tired so I would tear it down and take it to a GOOD machine shop to see what shape the block, crank and rods are in. If you want to build a very limited street engine and want some high rpm then I would buy a good set of forged pistons and give them to the machinest so he can fit them to your block when he bores and hones it. Make sure the crank gets 10-10, mag'd, shot peened and the snout drilled for the balancer bolt.
The stock 327 rods are good when worked properly but for what you want to do I think I'd pop for some 4340 H-beam rods from Scat. I would use ARP main studs or have splayed 4 bolt caps installed. I would shoot for 11.5:1 comp. w/ Edelbrock 60899 64 cc alum heads (under a $1000), an XE268H-10 or the XE274H Comp Cam (still kind of streetable in a 331"). I would use an Edelbrock Air Gap or a Victor JR. intake w/ a 650 Holley D.P. and a good HEI ignition, along with a good set of 1 5/8 long tube headers. An SFI harmonic balancer and flywheel is a must for high rpm use, and have the entire reciprocating assembly balanced. Now there a bunch of ways to build a high winder, a roller cam would be good...but $$$$$$$ I,m sure other guys have there own build but this one will scoot if built and tuned properly.
 

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Analog man in a digital world.
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Back in the day there was a '68 Chevelle SS in the next town with a nasty little 331 (.030" over 327), 4 speed with 5.13 gears. It ran honest high 11 quarter miles and could lift the front wheels on L70-15 bias ply street tires with the headers capped. It had a full interior and the body was 100% stock. Streetable? BARELY but nobody made fun of his "little" 327! :cool:
 

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i wouldnt waste a 327 stroking it to a 383 i would get a 350 first and stroke it. the 327 seems to be underestimated here, i wouldnt be afraid of putting it against a 383. but if i did it would be in an S10
 

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"May the Schwartz be with you"
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MI2600 said:
Where's Lonestar when you need him? He's the Hipo 327 guy.
I have way to much going on right now and I am just not in the mood for talking.

What I didn't see here is the application, small cubes and 1/8 mile runs require a light car and a lot of gear.
 

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I re-read your original post. I must have missed the "mostly strip". In that case, you should go for as much compression as you can get because these little motors need it. SRP sells a 12:1 piston and they are pretty nice pistons. Then get some good rods as mentioned. I prefer Scat I beams with 7/16 capscrews. Main studs would be a wise investment. Splayed caps aren`t needed but they are a good investment. For heads, it depends on your budget. you can get some 200cc Iron Eagle heads and have the bowls blended and they will work great. You can go aluminum if you have the money but keep the runner size under 200cc`s. Then go for a solid roller. something in the 250/[email protected] range , these little motors need to spin to make the power. You`ll want a 750cfm carb and a good intake. You`ll also need about a 4000-5000 stal and plenty of gear., 5.13 minumum for 1/8 mile depending on what your ET goal is. you should be able to run low 11`s-high 10`s in the 1/4 pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
327

The motor I build will go into a 85 Chevy s-10 blazer 2door. Turbo 350 tranny,shift kit, 1400 stall. It started out a 305 then a stock 350 then came the towing cam and the intake,double pumper,jet kits etc.... you get the picture. I lost some oil pressure and tore it down to find the cam bearings wiped out.So now I am here. I only ran it once and that was with the 305,it ran a 10.45. I am looking into a 4 link set up and possibly a full square frame and roll cage. I had this thing on the street for a while and now I want to put a spin on things. It still needs allot of work but it will get there. If I can figure out how to post pics I will post a few of them.
 

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That's what, a 3200 lb vehicle? You're going to need much more stall than 1400 and quite a stout 327 to get any decent 1/8th mile times.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
327

Yea I know I am going to need allot of motor ans the stall will not stay that was left over from the 305. I want a fast radical intimidating motor allot for the strip but I still want it to be street able. I am trying to figure out how to shave the wait without stripping out all the interior. If I go four link set up that will shave some. But then I will add a cage and gain it back, see the dilemma.So yes I need an awesome engine at a good cost (as always). So I am weighing the options between the two engines.
 

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For your vehicle and intended use, I would suggest at least a 383.

If you were running the full 1/4, then you could get away with a streetable 327 and still command some respectable times.

Since you are going to run the 1/8th you will need a lot of off-the-line torque to get that mass moving quickly, which neither the 327 or the 302 is best suited for. Not that it can't be done, but you had better be prepared to spend high dollars if you truly wish to go that route.
 

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First off,
If you are going to make an rpm engine, things get exponentially more expensive above 6800 rpm.

Second, an auto trans will not stand rpms above 7000 very long (unless it is a race powerglide). You will be exploding parts. The drum spins about 2.5 times as fast as the engine rpm.

Third, everything about the car must be adjusted to the high rpm useage. It will take GEAR to get it moving and keep it in the power band.

Fourth, it will suck on the street below 4000 rpm.

You can make 700 hp with a normally aspirated 327 but it takes 9600+ rpm to do it. That ain't fun with 4" pistons, and gasoline (it burns too slowly).
 

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xntrik said:
Fourth, it will suck on the street below 4000 rpm.

You can make 700 hp with a normally aspirated 327 but it takes 9600+ rpm to do it. That ain't fun with 4" pistons, and gasoline (it burns too slowly).
Bingo. My 327 idles at appx. 1700 r's and sucks to drive at anything under about 3500 rpm.

Makes great power and sounds great when cruising at 25 mph in first gear...that is until the trans went south on me.
 
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