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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone I've had my fun with the Topaz so now comes the next engine. I'm not sure what i'm going to put this is but I have an idea.

I would like any recommendations anyone can offer (good or bad) and if anyone could run this setup and see what type of power it could be pushing it would be greatly appreciated.

Would a motor like this handle about 125 horses of nitrous with the compression?

Block - World Motown Lite Aluminum block (made of 357-T6 aluminum)
4.125 bore X 400 mains, Billet splayed main caps
Bored over to 4.155 (.030)

Crankshaft - Eagle ESP forged 4340 steel
4.000" stroke
400 main journal

Connecting Rods - Eagle "ESP" H-Beam
2.100 crankshaft journal
6.000" long
645 grams

Pistons - JE Premium Forged
4.155"
3cc dome, valve reliefs
Comp ratio 14.6:1 w/ 58cc heads, 11.6:1 w/76 cc

Heads - Dart "Pro 1" Aluminum heads
230cc intake runners
2.03 intake valves / 1.60 exhaust valves
Angle plugs
*64 cc combustion*
1.550' springs

Rocker Arms - Crane cams gold race extruded billet rockers
1.6 ratio
Non-self aligning

Camshaft - Crane cams solid roller cams for drag racing
Adv. Duration 292*/302*
Gross lift .630"/.630"
RPM Range 4200-8000

Pushrods - Crane Cams Pro-Series Pushrods
7.850" (+.050)

Lifters - Comp Cams Solid Lifters
No other info given

Timing Gears - Mildon Gear Drives
No other info given

Headers - Hooker dragster headers
2" X 30" with 3-1/2" collector

Intake - Weiand Hi-Ram Tunnel Ram manifold
2800-8000 rpm

Carburetor(s) - (2)Holley classic Double pumper carbs
650 cfm (each, 1300 cfm total)

Distributor - MSD Pro-Billet
Dual pickup

Ignition Control - MSD Digital-7 Plus Ignition (7AL-2)
No other info given.



Thanks for any help anyone can offer,
Eric
 

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whats it got?

Since I didnt have enough data on the cam I had to extrapolate some from a Comp Cams Drag Racing Roller unit with compareable adv. duration and same lift.

11.6:1
Peak HP 629 @ 6500 RPM
Peak LB FT 571 @ 5000 RPM.



14.6:1 comp.

Peak HP 685 @ 7000 RPM
Peak LB FT 611 @ 5000 RPM
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, that should be enough for the old studebaker.... sound fun.

Let me know what other info you need on the cam and i'll see if i can get it for you.

Thanks again,
Eric
 

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what kind of power

The profile I used has 106 degree lobe separation and duration @ .050" was 252/258.

The next step up has the same lift but dur. @ .050" is 264/170, W/ 107 lobe separation, in comp cams.

With this second cam and 14.6:1

Peak HP 710 @ 7000 RPM
Peak LB FT 616 @ 5500 RPM
 

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what power?

14.6:1 is pushing it with gasoline. I dont think I would want to try NOx, unless I was over 30,000 ft elevation.
 

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$$$$$$$$$$$$$44

But Man, if you cant dream, what good is it ?

Back in 63, Ford Motor Company built a Merc for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb. It had a 427 in it. They were running about 14.5:1 compression. On the engine and in the cockpit, were signs saying:

Do NOT start this vehicle below 10,000 ft.
 

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yeah I got you, its one thing to learn, read and dream- whatever. its another to pretend you're serious about building something that's way out of your skill and price range.

K
 

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what power?

If you dont push the envelope, ya never get anywhere. I dont know what the guys skills are, so I have to take it at face value he knows something about what hes thinking on. Even if it never does get built.
For my money though, I would just as soon put together a punched and crunched Big Block of about 500 + cubes, but then Im poor broke white trash anyway.
 

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Clarke's Second Law

"The only way to determine the limit of the possible is to go a little way beyond it, and then back off."
 

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Sure, it sounds fun and not a bad combination. Of course I doubt you can afford it unless you have $20k or so laying around. Should be fun to drive to school.

Chris
 

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Personally, using a mild small block will most likely be better for the street, and would cost as much to build up as that fancy alumanim block would cost to buy. go with 9.5-10:1 ccompression or so. I think you'd be much happier this way; it won't run 5.8 in the quarter mile, but I'm sure it'll keep the guy in the next lane well in the mirror.

If a small block isn't enough, assuming you used a 350; drop a 400 SBC crank and make a 383.

Either way, the important thing with a street engine is to build it up with a wide torque/power band; peak munbers aren't as important as they are at the track, where you're normally running above 4500rpm anyways. On the street, I doubt under normal conditions the engine will see over 2500rpm unless you wanna get going real quick.;)
 

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SBC

I totally agree with ChevelleSS.
I would keep compression down around 9-9.5:1, if you are running a hydraulic cam in a 350, stay under 225 degrees duration @.050, for a mild engine. Preferably down around 210-220. The reason being for driveability, and you will like the bottom end torque. With a 600 CFM carb, and some good street headers, you will get a lot of attention from the guy next to you at the stop light grand prix. 99% of your driving is done below 5000 rpm so you dont need a 3000-6000 rpm cam. Particularly if you are running stock trans and rear end. The same applies for a 400, but you could add about 5 degrees of cam and another 50 CFM on the carb.
 

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Well ecrusch1987, I tell you what.

Figure up just EXACTLY how much $$$ you can spend. I will take that figure...take 1/3 and put it up for extra expenses like gaskets, nuts bolts, oil...you get the picture.

Then with the remaining 2/3 I will set you up a friday night special that you will love.

List the chassis...what, if any mods have been done to it eg. no back seat, rollbar...etc.
The gears it has.
The style of transmission you have.
Any existing engine parts
How fast you want to go -vs- durability
 
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