Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm new here

I have a 82 GMC Sierra with a built 350, I will be adding a hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter set among other things soon. I was wanting to go ahead and get a double roller timing set for it. Will a timing set for a 350 fit any year of the 350? Because I don't know what year the motor is that is in mine, it's not the stock motor.

I was looking at this
COMP Cams Magnum Double Roller Timing Sets 2100 - SummitRacing.com

Thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,684 Posts
Built 350-Timing Set Question

Check the front left-hand side of the block. There is a pad behind the alternator with some numbers stamped on it. Also check the flange where the transmission bolts to the block. Drivers and passenger side. There is a casting number on that flange. Check out this website to decode block numbers. If you need help post the numbers here.
 

·
WFO
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
Hi, I'm new here

I have a 82 GMC Sierra with a built 350, I will be adding a hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter set among other things soon. I was wanting to go ahead and get a double roller timing set for it. Will a timing set for a 350 fit any year of the 350? Because I don't know what year the motor is that is in mine, it's not the stock motor.

I was looking at this
COMP Cams Magnum Double Roller Timing Sets 2100 - SummitRacing.com

Thanks guys.
The main place you can run into problems is if you have a factory hydraulic cammed engine. If it has a flat tappet or retro roller cam, the set you linked to will work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the front left-hand side of the block. There is a pad behind the alternator with some numbers stamped on it. Also check the flange where the transmission bolts to the block. Drivers and passenger side. There is a casting number on that flange. Check out this website to decode block numbers. If you need help post the numbers here.
Thanks :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Built and hydraulic flat tappet cam is not two words I put in same sentence but your answer to question is no the old two peice rear seal engines and the newer one peice rear seals engine require a different timing chain un less they have a universal type I dont know if they do and dip stick can help you determine engine age a little is it passenger or driver side dipstick older blocks are driver side
 

·
WFO
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
...your answer to question is no the old two peice rear seal engines and the newer one peice rear seals engine require a different timing chain un less they have a universal type I dont know if they do...
Nope. The difference is whether the engine is running a factory type hydraulic roller cam/block/thrust plate. It uses a different bolt pattern than the flat tappet cammed engines and the clearance on the back side is different to clear everything. The linked to timing set will work for any flat tappet engine through about '91 when the Vortec began.;)
 

·
WFO
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
As long as he's not using the factory block/hydraulic roller cam/thrust plate he's fine, yes. That could be an engine from around '87 until the Vortec started. The factory used hydro rollers and flat tappets at the same time. Trucks/TBI engines got the flat tappet cams.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Yea I dont think he has a roller block but thats good info for me I always heard you couldnt run old style in the roller style blocks starting in 1987 but I guess to thats my fault never thought to ask if I change cam to non roller cam would it be possible
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Built and hydraulic flat tappet cam is not two words I put in same sentence but your answer to question is no the old two peice rear seal engines and the newer one peice rear seals engine require a different timing chain un less they have a universal type I dont know if they do and dip stick can help you determine engine age a little is it passenger or driver side dipstick older blocks are driver side
Bare with me as I'm not a motor expert of any kind I just love hot rods, but why would you not put built and hydraulic flat tappet in the same sentence?

I do understand roller cams are better and also more expensive, but I think there are plenty of nice street rods with hydraulic flat tappets.
 

·
WFO
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
Bare with me as I'm not a motor expert of any kind I just love hot rods, but why would you not put built and hydraulic flat tappet in the same sentence?

I do understand roller cams are better and also more expensive, but I think there are plenty of nice street rods with hydraulic flat tappets.
And there are a whole bunch of guys who will readily agree w/you.

Attention to detail used to be enough. But now a big problem w/flat tappet cams is the influx of poor quality cam cores and lifters that make them more failure prone than they should be. Add to that the motor oil being made w/less high pressure additives that are needed when using a flat tappet cam, and the chance of improper break in procedures being followed and you have a system that fails more than it should- and more than it did, not that many years ago.

But that said, if the proper parts are used (like the correct valve springs set up w/the correct installed height), and the important areas of the valve train are checked, and the proper procedures for cam break in are followed, there's no reason a strong running engine cannot have a flat tappet cam- even a hydraulic flat tappet cam.;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And there are a whole bunch of guys who will readily agree w/you.

Attention to detail used to be enough. But now a big problem w/flat tappet cams is the influx of poor quality cam cores and lifters that make them more failure prone than they should be. Add to that the motor oil being made w/less high pressure additives that are needed when using a flat tappet cam, and the chance of improper break in procedures being followed and you have a system that fails more than it should- and more than it did, not that many years ago.

But that said, if the proper parts are used (like the correct valve springs set up w/the correct installed height), and the important areas of the valve train are checked, and the proper procedures for cam break in are followed, there's no reason a strong running engine cannot have a flat tappet cam- even a hydraulic flat tappet cam.;)
Agreed.
Yeah, I will be using Valvoline VR-1 as my motor oil as it has plenty of Zinc/ZDPP, and a break in additive the first time as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Now dont get me wrong you can build a nice little motor with hydraulic cams I dont use them personally but go for what you can just with a built engine im was thinking solid lift solid roller but no that not for every body just lifters and cam ran little over 700 for me. I have no problem. Run what you can better than a 4 cylinder Honda any day in my book but like cobalt saying alot of failures some from the cam some from people not doing proper break in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
But yea main reason I dont put built and hydraulic together is when people I know say built engine they are talking some crazy lift high horsepower high rpm engine and a hydraulic is not going do that because of vavle float with the lifters and limted lift. you will see solid roller or hydraulic roller in most built race engines I run a 645 lift solid roller with 1.6 rockers to put my lift bout 680 now. but like say they are alot nice engines out there with hydraulic for street see no problem. at track thats another thing but I run mine on both street and track but I would not recommend that for most people alot of people are not going like it and yes its not cheap I have little over 12000 in motor and know a few with more money than that
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top