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brains
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Despite hurricane Frances, While others were fleeing for cover I was putting my 408 windsor motor into my suzuki samurai frame last weekend. I then put in the 9.5" converter making sure to spin it and feel it go in several steps. The body of car was not on the frame, so I simply lifted the transmission and directly put it onto the motor. It aligned perfectly and flat, I didnt force or push it, it just bolted up perfectly. I then went to turn the converter to match up the flywheel holes and it wouldnt turn. Using studs to mount my transmission to the motor, I took off the nuts and backed off the transmission about .050" (hair line crack) , the converter freed up. I then bolted the transmission up and watched the flywheel, it doesnt really seem to be binding, but was wondering if this is because im not using the spacer inspection plate. I havent used those plates in the past and never had a problem.

Ben
 

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CONVERTER

Did you remove the paint off of the snout of the converter????

I have seen this cause problems with the converter binding in the crank bore...

Keith
 

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brains
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Discussion Starter #3
It didnt have paint on the part of it, I bought it used, it does have one of those billet backing plates rather then stock if that makes a difference on converters.

Ben
 

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bind

No the anti ballon plate should not make a difference. I would check the diameter of the snout and also check the diameter of the bore in the crank just to be sure it has clearence.... I have actually seen cranks where that bore was not finished, They just used them with a stick shift.......

Also i am sure you know this but are you sure the converter is pushed into the pump gears the whole way. I would mearure the distance from the block to the flexplate, and also measure the distance from the trans face where it mounts to the engine and see if it comes out to the right size. If not then you will know where to start looking. If it has room then something is binding during assembly......

Keith
 

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NYOFP4RJ3CHRIS
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brainsboy said:
I then went to turn the converter to match up the flywheel holes and it wouldnt turn. Using studs to mount my transmission to the motor, I took off the nuts and backed off the transmission about .050" (hair line crack) , the converter freed up. I then bolted the transmission up and watched the flywheel, it doesnt really seem to be binding, but was wondering if this is because im not using the spacer inspection plate. I havent used those plates in the past and never had a problem.

Ben
Sounds like you need the spacer plate in this instance. How much end play do you have in the convertor (if any) when the bell bolts are tightened?
 

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The convertor studs MUST protrude through the flex plate before the transmission is bolted to the engine.

This is what I do.
Take a 3/8" fine thread bolt and cut the head off.
Remove the drain plug and install the bolt.
Be sure the bolt enters the drain plug access in the flex plate.
You can now wiggle the bolt around to pull the studs into alignment with the bolt holes in the flex plate.
Now install and tighten the housing bolts.
The convertor must wiggle when it is all together.

Oh. Remove the bolt before the engine is turned over.:D
 

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brains
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Discussion Starter #8
Im going to pull off the transmission this weekend and check for the things you guys suggested. I will let you know what the outcome is

thanks
 
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Stu..... I sure wish someone had suggested the bolt in the drain plug hole 25 or so years ago. Sure would have saved me time. I remember many times, aligning the plug with the hole, only to find out that I was looking the wrong way. I finally figured out that it was easier to just place the plug and hole in the down position. Once the trans was bolted to the engine, I turned the engine over to get to the studs. With a small screwdriver, I would move the convertor to make sure the studs were in the holes. A few seconds for something like that, would have made the installs that normally took about 15-20 minutes, a whole lot easier.
 

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Stu..... I sure wish someone had suggested the bolt in the drain plug hole 25 or so years ago. Sure would have saved me time. I remember many times, aligning the plug with the hole, only to find out that I was looking the wrong way. I finally figured out that it was easier to just place the plug and hole in the down position. Once the trans was bolted to the engine, I turned the engine over to get to the studs. With a small screwdriver, I would move the convertor to make sure the studs were in the holes. A few seconds for something like that, would have made the installs that normally took about 15-20 minutes, a whole lot easier


Hm. I have been doing that for at least 35 years.
 
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