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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been searching google for ages trying to find how to setup my c6 transmission but haven't found anything.

I need pictures/ diagrams on how the c6 linkage is ment to be hooked up so i can try figure out how to hook my linkage upto my car

also i read something about the vacum hose thingy on the tranmission? any pictures/ diagrams out there on this, mine has a thing on the trans with hoses on it but there just cut and go nowhere. . . not sure what this is for or where they go

also kickdown lever, do i need this? currently mine hasn't got one can i just ignore it or do i need one on to stop gearbox problems etc? i dont really mind if it doesnt drop down a gear when i put my foot down if i want more power i can manually drop it down a gear with the shifter but i read that without a kickdown it'l ruin my trans?

transmission is the only thing left to get my car moveable :) well after driveshaft shortened but need to go for a 3hour drive to somewhere that will shorten and balance it, no1 in my town does it

would prefer to do everything i can myself without taking it to get done, ran out of money lol
 

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You need a manifold (full time) vacuum source to the modulator. The detent/kick down is not mandatory.

Use the outer vacuum port on the modulator. The inner smaller vacuum port closest to the case was used w/the EGR emissions system, so unless you are using an EGR valve, leave it alone. You can replace the two port modulator w/a one port type if you wanted to. IIRC the modulator you have is the push in type, not the threaded type but look first if you swap it out. The push in type has a clamp and bolt holding it in, real easy to see.

For the shift linkage, are you using a stock column shifter, or a floor mounted shifter? Is it aftermarket or stock?
 

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c6

You need a manifold (full time) vacuum source to the modulator. The detent/kick down is not mandatory.

Use the outer vacuum port on the modulator. The inner smaller vacuum port closest to the case was used w/the EGR emissions system, so unless you are using an EGR valve, leave it alone. You can replace the two port modulator w/a one port type if you wanted to. IIRC the modulator you have is the push in type, not the threaded type but look first if you swap it out. The push in type has a clamp and bolt holding it in, real easy to see.

For the shift linkage, are you using a stock column shifter, or a floor mounted shifter? Is it aftermarket or stock?
cobalt is corect. You do need the kickdown,with out you will ruen the trans.when your throttle is wide open the kickdown should be on the stop. i used a throttle lever with a spring built in so you have a cushion in adjustements.i would sujest a vacume modulator that is adjustable(tiney screw inside vacume tube.do this and you will have a trans that shifts crisp and will take big power
 

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cobalt is corect. You do need the kickdown,with out you will ruen the trans.when your throttle is wide open the kickdown should be on the stop. i used a throttle lever with a spring built in so you have a cushion in adjustements.i would sujest a vacume modulator that is adjustable(tiney screw inside vacume tube.do this and you will have a trans that shifts crisp and will take big power
Thanks for the correction, Cliff. On the advice of a respected transmission guy in Orlando I ran w/o the detent in my Torino/351C/C6 and had no problem. But if that was the wrong info I was given and this will damage his transmission that's the LAST thing I want to happen.

Mark
 

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Most of the older stuff that I had used a bell-crank and rod system like this (above).
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I believe that some of the newer models may have had cable-operated shift linkage as well. This pic (above) is from a 1993 F150 2WD with a 5.0L and an E4OD trans. I'm resonably sure that the same year with a 460 would use similar linkage with possibly different brackets. Try the wreckers?
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NAPA ATP 1-7243

The early C6's also used a single-line mudulator like this one, which is adjustable. This one had a green stripe on it, which was the most popular one.

There was usually a 90° rubber elbow that attached the modulator to a steel line, which was clipped to one of the bellhousing bolts to keep it stationary and secured. another peice of rubber vacuum hose from the steel tube to intake manifold direct vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the pictures and help very usefull, will get under there today and have a look around, its a factory floor shift c6 from a mustang.

Does anyone know where i can get a kickdown lever ? these engines and tranmissions ain't very common in NZ and the normal buy sell websites etc have no parts or anything for them
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
having a look at my linkage there is no kickdown thing? have attached a photo not the best was taken with my phone can get one with camera if to hard to see but this is my linkage on trans.

also which of these hoses are ment to be on the manifold vacum? number 1 or 2? and is the one not need ok left as it is or should i block it with a screw or something?



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which of these hoses are ment to be on the manifold vacum? number 1 or 2? and is the one not need ok left as it is or should i block it with a screw or something?
#2 gets the manifold vacuum. Leave #1 open to the air. You can use a piece of vacuum hose on it routed so nothing will get in it. Be sure it will hold vacuum. And that there is no ATF inside the vacuum hose or modulator port. If there is, it could be from the diaphragm leaking.

FWIW I am seeing elsewhere where people run w/o the kick down w/o problems, so I don't know what's up w/that. One way to get most of the needed parts is to get a Lokar kit, but it's pricy. It includes the bracket arm that goes to the tranny. I didn't look to see if there were other kits from the different vendors. The carb needs a bracket, too unless it's already on the carb. Holley sells them IIRC.

I don't think the shift arm you have is for the floor shifter. I seem to remember mine looking a lot like yours, and my Torino came w/a column shifter. At least until I changed it for a B&M floor shifter.
 

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Based on the picture I posted ealier, I believe that what you have there is the SHIFT lever.

I would say that you are missing the kickdown lever, which attaches to the inner shaft.

I have also read, and tend to believe that you won't HURT the trans by not having the kickdown hooked up.

That being said though, it's much more convenient to have it hooked up and operating as it was designed to. Let the throttle position decide the appropriate time to downshift instead of having to manually shift into 2nd when you want to get around somebody on the highway, or even pull up a steep grade. And then there is having to remember to shift back into 3rd.

Bottom line:
It's an automatic, not a manually shifted automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
#2 gets the manifold vacuum. Leave #1 open to the air. You can use a piece of vacuum hose on it routed so nothing will get in it. Be sure it will hold vacuum. And that there is no ATF inside the vacuum hose or modulator port. If there is, it could be from the diaphragm leaking.

FWIW I am seeing elsewhere where people run w/o the kick down w/o problems, so I don't know what's up w/that. One way to get most of the needed parts is to get a Lokar kit, but it's pricy. It includes the bracket arm that goes to the tranny. I didn't look to see if there were other kits from the different vendors. The carb needs a bracket, too unless it's already on the carb. Holley sells them IIRC.

I don't think the shift arm you have is for the floor shifter. I seem to remember mine looking a lot like yours, and my Torino came w/a column shifter. At least until I changed it for a B&M floor shifter.
ahh maybe it was column shift im not sure just know it was from a mustang, i search around and read column shift ones the park is up on the linkage and floor shift is down and park for mine is down so just assumed was floor shift,

also im planning on getting a b&m floor shifter to hook the linkage up, was it hard to do? any chance you still have the car and can take photos on how it was done?
 

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ahh maybe it was column shift im not sure just know it was from a mustang, i search around and read column shift ones the park is up on the linkage and floor shift is down and park for mine is down so just assumed was floor ****,

also im planning on getting a b&m floor shifter to hook the linkage up, was it hard to do? any chance you still have the car and can take photos on how it was done?
The "Banana" is long gone, sold it in about '84. But the shifter is not hard to install, and includes the shift arm. If you want to look over the instructions, they can be seen on the B&M site. Choose the shifter you want, then click on more details>>, then click again on the instruction pdf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks alot thats great, was going to try use the jag shift and cable to hook up but no idea how so was thinking about just buying a whole shifter kit with everything that will be easy enough to install, will take the modulator off tomorrow if weather is still fine and check its ok but depends how much they are might just buy a new one anyways, will keep my eye out for a kickdown lever as well.

just finished putting my dash back in with all new gauges starting to look good. sucks not having anyone near that will shorten my driveshaft, 3hour drive to get it done and have't got any money for petrol grr lol cant wait for it to be going
 

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c6

thanks alot thats great, was going to try use the jag shift and cable to hook up but no idea how so was thinking about just buying a whole shifter kit with everything that will be easy enough to install, will take the modulator off tomorrow if weather is still fine and check its ok but depends how much they are might just buy a new one anyways, will keep my eye out for a kickdown lever as well.

just finished putting my dash back in with all new gauges starting to look good. sucks not having anyone near that will shorten my driveshaft, 3hour drive to get it done and have't got any money for petrol grr lol cant wait for it to be going
the center shaft is the kikdown(corect name is throtle presure)simple to get a lever frome wrecker or trans shop.if you do not use the kik down you wil have a poor shifting trans with a short life with any power in front.re the drive shaft dont skimp do it corectly,some of your help hear ar verry knowledgeable,others are useing hearsay .if you go to a trans shop they will help you get the strt goods
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
the center shaft is the kikdown(corect name is throtle presure)simple to get a lever frome wrecker or trans shop.if you do not use the kik down you wil have a poor shifting trans with a short life with any power in front.re the drive shaft dont skimp do it corectly,some of your help hear ar verry knowledgeable,others are useing hearsay .if you go to a trans shop they will help you get the strt goods
theres no trans shop within 300km and no wrecker here has heard of these gearboxes neither do any online sites, unless they can come off another trans? then its going to be hard to find it but i will keep looking
 

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theres no trans shop within 300km and no wrecker here has heard of these gearboxes neither do any online sites, unless they can come off another trans? then its going to be hard to find it but i will keep looking
The kickdown lever is a relatively simple part. It could be made from a good, clear photo if someone could give you one (or you found one online). It would help to have something to gauge the size by, ideally w/a ruler in the picture for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The kickdown lever is a relatively simple part. It could be made from a good, clear photo if someone could give you one (or you found one online). It would help to have something to gauge the size by, ideally w/a ruler in the picture for reference.
im just not sure about the connecting part that connects onto the gearbox linkage bit itself, if i knew how it bolted on etc i could probably get my mate to make one but so far all i know is how the top end hooks up
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
have just noticed a bolt missing just above the modulator, in the black circle that is where the modulator thingy goes and in the red circle is a threaded hole not sure what its for? it doesnt leak trans fluid or anything and has clean thread

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sorry about the angle of the picture, if you tilt your head to the right its the right way
 
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