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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so if you were following my last thread i was building a 350 for nitrous. Ive since abandoned that and am building a 383 all motor.

Im planning on these heads:
Assault Racing Complete SBC Small Block Chevy Aluminum Cylinder Heads Angle Plug 350 383 400 - KMJ Performance
I already ordered this Rotating Assembly at .040:
Assault Pro Series 383 Balanced Rotating Assembly - KMJ Performance

Now that setup should give me around 10.5:1 according to the chart on the Rotating assembly page. With that said i THINK im looking for a cam in the 233 Degree @ .050'' on the intake side. Does that sound right? If i run something better then pump gas is it beneficial to increase this? This is a track only car so no worries on gas mileage etc. Just looking for power.

Heres the cam i was looking at:
SBC 234/.533 242/.548 112+4 OE Hydraulic Roller Camshafts - KMJ Performance

Any help is much appreciated.

-Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
nice mild cam. no idea what its purpose is? If its a street car, thats daily driven with weekend fun in mind,then sounds ok,have fun
Thats what i feared the info i found was leading me to do. I want the most power possible. Surely there is a cam TOO big for my setup. so what cam might be better suited for making power? STRICTLY for making usuable power in a straight line. If the carb decides what cam i use then what ever the best carb is to throw the best cam in is fine since i have no carb purchased yet. Bassically what cam on the best carb with 110 fuel should i run?

Also if this changes anything im considering building this car specific for 1/8 mile drag as it is a more accessable track around here. there are a few. Also they host sand drags 4 miles from my house a few times a year. If the cars built for 1/8 mile then the 300ft sand drags will be a little better aswell.
 

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If you are drag racing:
find a track/car

determine how quick you want to go,with the car you have determine how much power you need IE, a 3300 pound nova will run into the 12s with a 425 hp engine and 4.11 gears/3 speed auto and a fat guy driving.
every hundred pounds will save/cost a tenth or more. If its really a race car then use racing gear ratios.

The heads will tell you how much power you could make,the cam will tell you what RPM that it happens and or if you will meet t he potential of the heads. the CR needs to be factored in. The cubic inches will also determine when the power occurs

and all the stuff you learned last thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The heads will tell you how much power you could make,the cam will tell you what RPM that it happens and or if you will meet t he potential of the heads. the CR needs to be factored in. The cubic inches will also determine when the power occurs.
Ive given all of the above. So what cam fits in the designated slot? lets assume i want to run 5's in the 1/2 mile. Now that theres no such thing as a goal time to avoid surpassing accidently by making too much power... How quick do i want to go? As fast as my motor will push me.

With the data i provided what cam makes the best power? Its a simple goal. "The most power possible" I cant make it any simpler then this.

Heads: 200cc Intake port, 2.02/1.60 valves
Cubic inches: 383
CR: 10.5:1
Camshaft: ?

This question is open to anyone who would like to provide an opinion for the answer.
 

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I use big cams in my cars,
for you maybe something like this

110173-10S NA 273 279 241 247 .570 .570 110 106 .022 .022 1,2,5
2800-7000 Small Base Circle, Fair idle, High performance Street/Mild Bracket. 10.0:1 CR, 2800+.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I use big cams in my cars,
for you maybe something like this

110173-10S NA 273 279 241 247 .570 .570 110 106 .022 .022 1,2,5
2800-7000 Small Base Circle, Fair idle, High performance Street/Mild Bracket. 10.0:1 CR, 2800+.

Ok now the heads im running says its for flat tappet. Wont work no?

This cam is flat tappet and although this cam dosent have a recommended compression the one next size up says 11:1 or more so perhaps this one being one level less will work on 10.5:1 ? Im liking the RPM range.

Sbc Solid Tappet Chevy 350 383 Camshaft Kit 290/300 Gm - KMJ Performance

EDIT: Now im not seeing that they are for a flat tappet lifter so the heads work either way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah you should be fine here is the link to the specs. This more of an old school race cam. That can be used on the street enough to get to the track.

12-224-4 - Magnum

Not saying the other cam suggested is bad. Just always had good luck with this one and alot of ppl run them so not to hard to get it dailed in. This is a flat solid cam. And should work with most after market head setups.

Ok thanks for the input. Ill add this car wont be driven to the track. always trailered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Sooooo anyone who read what i typed and didnt add their own "what they want for xmas" to the build have an opinion for an all track car with listed parts cam selection?

Im thinking i might be maxed out with the assault cam i linked previously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Ok so that makes a big difference cause the next larger cams will still be bumping at 2k rpm. You can go with the largest flat solid magnum or xtreme.

The largest magnum is about as large as i would go. Xtreme from comp is in the same range for the largest cam. Xs290s is flat solid as well

Magnum 306S
12-225-4 - Magnum

What type of trans?

Now were cookin! Im really not as far as the trans. Ive heard turbo 350 a lot. It says the springs must be modified. The assault heads dual springs are good to go for that right? It also says the heads must be machined. The assault heads are good to .650" lift so theyll work as is correct?
 

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If you are building a racetrack only engine why is the compression so low. The 383 rotating assembly I see is for a 1986-up Chevy street engine. They don't give you the flow rate of the heads you have listed. If I was building a cheap 383 engine I would at least buy big enough heads for it to breath. Like these SBC Chevy Aluminum Heads Assembled 210cc 2.02 Angle - KMJ Performance. Since you have a cast crank I wouldn't spin it any more than 6000 rpm. The wimpy hyd. flat tappet cam is about correct for it. You might be in the 400 hp range. Bump the compression up to 11.0-11.5 and get a Comp Cams XR300HR 12-444-8[10]. .562/.580 lift and 248/254 duration. 110 LSA and 106 ICL. Super Victor Intake and a 850 cfm carburetor. This will at least get you up to 450-480 hp and 482 lbs. of torque Then you will need a 3000 lb car with a 3500-4000 stall and some gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you are building a racetrack only engine why is the compression so low. The 383 rotating assembly I see is for a 1986-up Chevy street engine. They don't give you the flow rate of the heads you have listed. If I was building a cheap 383 engine I would at least buy big enough heads for it to breath. Like these SBC Chevy Aluminum Heads Assembled 210cc 2.02 Angle - KMJ Performance. Since you have a cast crank I wouldn't spin it any more than 6000 rpm. The wimpy hyd. flat tappet cam is about correct for it. You might be in the 400 hp range. Bump the compression up to 11.0-11.5 and get a Comp Cams XR300HR 12-444-8[10]. .562/.580 lift and 248/254 duration. 110 LSA and 106 ICL. Super Victor Intake and a 850 cfm carburetor. This will at least get you up to 450-480 hp and 482 lbs. of torque Then you will need a 3000 lb car with a 3500-4000 stall and some gears.
I like that head 50 more bucks aint bad. The rotating assembly i went with is going to have to be the limiting factor. I decided to go low budget. Im just going to have to build the motor to what that setup can handle. Ill get it all put together, Get a car together and run it and see how it is. If its dog slow then i can let everyone i know run it with confidence atleast.
 
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