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Camshaft wear.

988 Views 29 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  35olds
7
I got a camshaft out of a 1997 350 vortec. Trying to figure out if I should replace it or not. The engine spun a bearing so there are these spots on the cam. You can feel them, but are they bad enough to go ahead and replace the whole cam? Or can you smooth these spots out.
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You sure an see where that spun bearing sent shrapnel through the oil system. What does the crank and oil pump look like Insides of lifters, etc.?

You could polish the cam journals up and replace the cam bearings in the block and hope for the best, as long as the lobes look good it’s got a chance as journals unless gouged and fried continue on pretty well, especially if you bump the oil pump up a little to insure your covering and excess clearance leakage.

Bogie
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When in doubt, throw it out!
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I would not use it, would be afraid of the lobe hardness being gone.
New cams and lifter's are cheaper then going though another rebuild.
Greg
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grab a slightly upgraded cam from Howards? Cheap insurance and more power seems like reason enough. Just make sure its the right version for your specific application
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Send it out to a cam regrinder, have them assess it. If they say they can save the cam bearing journal surfaces then use it as the core for a regrind to a better performance match to your application. That will freshen all the lobes up like brand new. Help keep the cost down on the build as well.
It's he best way to go, with all the problems in the camshaft industry at this point in time.
Guys are actually starting to hoard good cores, instead of just tossing them out like the old days for scrap tonnage.


It actually brings a tear to my eye thinking about the buckets of used stock SBC hard faced hydraulic flat tappet lifters that I scrapped off many years ago. Those cores would be like gold today, perfect hard face regrind lifter cores tossed away for scrap steel value. Wish I had those back now.
Nobody foresaw the cam/lifter crapfest coming to the performance industry in time to save it..
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Send it out to a cam regrinder, have them assess it. If they say they can save the cam bearing journal surfaces then use it as the core for a regrind to a better performance match to your application. That will freshen all the lobes up like brand new. Help keep the cost down on the build as well.
It's he best way to go, with all the problems in the camshaft industry at this point in time.
Guys are actually starting to hoard good cores, instead of just tossing them out like the old days for scrap tonnage.


It actually brings a tear to my eye thinking about the buckets of used stock SBC hard faced hydraulic flat tappet lifters that I scrapped off many years ago. Those cores would be like gold today, perfect hard face regrind lifter cores tossed away for scrap steel value. Wish I had those back now.
Nobody foresaw the cam/lifter crapfest coming to the performance industry in time to save it..
So I’ve actually been looking for a stock replacement that’s the same as this, my local area doesn’t have a lot of options at the moment for machine work. I can’t even find a place to balance my rotating assembly right now. The main guy that use to donut passed away a couple years ago and the other spot closed down after 50 years.

But I’m having a lot of trouble finding a replacement. I can’t find anything matching the numbers on the cam and almost every stock replacement has sown crazy tight LSA like 106. I’m pretty sure this one is 118. But if I find one at 118 the lift is around 500 and I’m pretty sure this one is close to 414. I’m just finding a lot of conflicting specs when it comes to a stock cam replacement.

so, if it can’t be saved, do you think you can recommend a cam for me that would be perfect? It’s a stock rebuild so obviously there are limits. More power is always a good thing, but it’s a work truck/ off road fun truck on the weekends. If I can get more power while retaining driveability then that would be perfect. I’m just burned out trying to find a stock replacement for this. And just getting more confused when I see stock replacements with a LSA at 106.
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I think this is it.
GM GENUINE 10241264
Rockauto has it for 212
What is the 2 18 7135? And the D and 9
What is the 2 18 7135? And the D and 9
There is a '1264' on the rear face of the cam above the D and 9.
Same as the last 4 of the part number.
I'm not sure a stock replacement cam is what you want or need, but there it is. If you go performance cam make sure you have a plan to get it turned by somebody.
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There are several GM cams that work well with TBI 87-95 and the MPFI 96-02.

- Stock 96 P/N 10241264; no fuel pump lobe; duration 255/266 at zero, 190/195 @ .050 , stem lift for 1.5 rocker .414/.428, ICL 106.25, LSA 111. What you see published can vary a small bit depending on who did the measure or to reflect production tinkering, this applies to any cam.

- Stock 96 P/N 14097395 has fuel pump lobe, timing same as 10241264.

- I’ll sight the Ram Jet P/N 140097395; no fuel pump lobe; 288/[email protected] zero; 196/206 @ .050, stem lift for 1.5 rocker .431/.451; don’t have the ICL and don’t feel like doing the math; LSA 109. This cam is not all that much of a hot rod cam though, the really long ramps and tight LSA give it a rasty sounding idle it can’t back up with performance, the long ramps and tight LSA will not play well with production L03/L05 nor L30/L31 computers.

- A very nice EFI street cam your stock 87-2002 EFI will pick up with an active O2 sensor is the 1987 TPI cam P/N 14093643; no fuel pump lobe; I cant find my detail notes which has the measured zero lift specs but this cam plays nice with TPI, TBI and MPFI from 87-02 engines. At .050 lift it specs 202/206, with the usual 1.5 rocker it only lifts .403/.415 on a wide LSA of 115 degrees. OEM computers pick this cam up very nicely as usual with a working O2 sensor and do it with a 1.6 rocker which improves the meager lift to .430/.442.

- Another cam that works well with 87-02 engines with some sort of factory EFI is the 95-97 LT1 cam part number 12551705. The .050 duration is 201/208; lift is .447/.459; the LSA is 117 degrees which makes this cam super stable with OEM computer programming even with 1.6 rockers

- The original LT4 cam is another candidate but due to its lift might get the OEM computer into a little programming but this is not so crazy that one of those canned performance chips or external processor won’t pick up with an active O2 sensor. Part number 12551142 it specs .050 duration at 203/210 with lift of .446/.450 with 1.5’s and for the daring using a 1.6 .476/.480 inches of lift. This uses a wide LSA of 115 so it holds a pretty high manifold vacuum which Manifold Absolute Pressure managed EFI’s really like.

For flat tappet cams used in EFI engines the stock TBI trucks ran a duration at .050 of 166/175 lift of .382/.402 on an LSA of 112 degrees basically your shop’s broom handle is more aggressive.

The passenger car versions of TBI got a roller cam with a whopping 179/194 with .350/.385 lift still on a 112 LSA.

TBI cop cars got roller cam pretty similar to that grocery getter above with 180/194 and a bit more lift of .392/.401 on that 109 LSA along with a different program and bigger flowing injectors.

As a comparison the old 929/051 cam used in every pedestrian 305/307/327/350/400 from 140 to 300 horsepower timed 256/268 @ zip lift and 195/202 havind lift of .390/.410 and an LSA of 111 degrees. With 10.5 and camel hump heads this cam makes 300 horses in a 327 and repeats that power in a 350 with the same heads but 9.5 compression. This cam works very well with EFI engines lke those I sight from 87 -02 as well as carbed engines.

So as a data point this should give you a pretty good range of cams that work with these non- high performance in a hot rodders sense engines. Most of these are repeated under private labels from most hotrod/racing emporiums. A lot of guys like the Ram Jet cam I not so enthusiastic about it because where you get into these tight LSA cams you really need to Jack up the compression to get as much bite out of them that bark intones should be there and that on modern corner station gas is not easy to do without modern heads starting at the L31 Vortec into the aluminum aftermarket’s.

Any of these cams roller or flat tappet not only play nice with EFI but also carbs. Most of these cams are available in identical copies or very close. The main point I’m emphasizing is that similar cam architecture by other makers will have similar performance to these. I sight the 929/051 cam as that cam with decent factory heads made 300 horses on both the 327 and 350 the former having 10.5 SCR and the latter at 9.5.

Bogie
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Send it out to a cam regrinder, have them assess it. If they say they can save the cam bearing journal surfaces then use it as the core for a regrind to a better performance match to your application. That will freshen all the lobes up like brand new. Help keep the cost down on the build as well.
It's he best way to go, with all the problems in the camshaft industry at this point in time.
Guys are actually starting to hoard good cores, instead of just tossing them out like the old days for scrap tonnage.


It actually brings a tear to my eye thinking about the buckets of used stock SBC hard faced hydraulic flat tappet lifters that I scrapped off many years ago. Those cores would be like gold today, perfect hard face regrind lifter cores tossed away for scrap steel value. Wish I had those back now.
Nobody foresaw the cam/lifter crapfest coming to the performance industry in time to save it..
If the bearing journals are really bad do the build them up.and re grind them.?
There are several GM cams that work well with TBI 87-95 and the MPFI 96-02.

- Stock 96 P/N 10241264; no fuel pump lobe; duration 255/266 at zero, 190/195 @ .050 , stem lift for 1.5 rocker .414/.428, ICL 106.25, LSA 111. What you see published can vary a small bit depending on who did the measure or to reflect production tinkering, this applies to any cam.

- Stock 96 P/N 14097395 has fuel pump lobe, timing same as 10241264.

- I’ll sight the Ram Jet P/N 140097395; no fuel pump lobe; 288/[email protected] zero; 196/206 @ .050, stem lift for 1.5 rocker .431/.451; don’t have the ICL and don’t feel like doing the math; LSA 109. This cam is not all that much of a hot rod cam though, the really long ramps and tight LSA give it a rasty sounding idle it can’t back up with performance, the long ramps and tight LSA will not play well with production L03/L05 nor L30/L31 computers.

- A very nice EFI street cam your stock 87-2002 EFI will pick up with an active O2 sensor is the 1987 TPI cam P/N 14093643; no fuel pump lobe; I cant find my detail notes which has the measured zero lift specs but this cam plays nice with TPI, TBI and MPFI from 87-02 engines. At .050 lift it specs 202/206, with the usual 1.5 rocker it only lifts .403/.415 on a wide LSA of 115 degrees. OEM computers pick this cam up very nicely as usual with a working O2 sensor and do it with a 1.6 rocker which improves the meager lift to .430/.442.

- Another cam that works well with 87-02 engines with some sort of factory EFI is the 95-97 LT1 cam part number 12551705. The .050 duration is 201/208; lift is .447/.459; the LSA is 117 degrees which makes this cam super stable with OEM computer programming even with 1.6 rockers

- The original LT4 cam is another candidate but due to its lift might get the OEM computer into a little programming but this is not so crazy that one of those canned performance chips or external processor won’t pick up with an active O2 sensor. Part number 12551142 it specs .050 duration at 203/210 with lift of .446/.450 with 1.5’s and for the daring using a 1.6 .476/.480 inches of lift. This uses a wide LSA of 115 so it holds a pretty high manifold vacuum which Manifold Absolute Pressure managed EFI’s really like.

For flat tappet cams used in EFI engines the stock TBI trucks ran a duration at .050 of 166/175 lift of .382/.402 on an LSA of 112 degrees basically your shop’s broom handle is more aggressive.

The passenger car versions of TBI got a roller cam with a whopping 179/194 with .350/.385 lift still on a 112 LSA.

TBI cop cars got roller cam pretty similar to that grocery getter above with 180/194 and a bit more lift of .392/.401 on that 109 LSA along with a different program and bigger flowing injectors.

As a comparison the old 929/051 cam used in every pedestrian 305/307/327/350/400 from 140 to 300 horsepower timed 256/268 @ zip lift and 195/202 havind lift of .390/.410 and an LSA of 111 degrees. With 10.5 and camel hump heads this cam makes 300 horses in a 327 and repeats that power in a 350 with the same heads but 9.5 compression. This cam works very well with EFI engines lke those I sight from 87 -02 as well as carbed engines.

So as a data point this should give you a pretty good range of cams that work with these non- high performance in a hot rodders sense engines. Most of these are repeated under private labels from most hotrod/racing emporiums. A lot of guys like the Ram Jet cam I not so enthusiastic about it because where you get into these tight LSA cams you really need to Jack up the compression to get as much bite out of them that bark intones should be there and that on modern corner station gas is not easy to do without modern heads starting at the L31 Vortec into the aluminum aftermarket’s.

Any of these cams roller or flat tappet not only play nice with EFI but also carbs. Most of these cams are available in identical copies or very close. The main point I’m emphasizing is that similar cam architecture by other makers will have similar performance to these. I sight the 929/051 cam as that cam with decent factory heads made 300 horses on both the 327 and 350 the former having 10.5 SCR and the latter at 9.5.

Bogie
so now I'm looking round and playing with different cams now, what do you think about camshaft sum-8800 from summit? is the 450 lift too much for my 906 vortec heads, my research says it good. but i could be reading bad material.

specs are:
lift-450/450
duration-204/[email protected]
advertised duration- 257/267
112 LSA
so now I'm looking round and playing with different cams now, what do you think about camshaft sum-8800 from summit? is the 450 lift too much for my 906 vortec heads, my research says it good. but i could be reading bad material.

specs are:
lift-450/450
duration-204/[email protected]
advertised duration- 257/267
112 LSA
Are you using the EFI or a carb?

Yes this is in the range of the cams I sighted that work well with factory EFI and they also work with a carb.

The .450 lift with a 1.5 rocker should work but it’s at the edge of L31 Vortec heads. Helping you spend your money if you use beehive springs with either Comp’s 787-16 retainer or the kit from Alex’s Parts and I think an outfit called Diablo has one also, these get around machining the top of the guide down. GM says you can run .47 on the lift with these heads but since there should be a minimum of .050 inch between the bottom of the retainer to the top of the stem’s oil seal It pays to measure first than to repair or rebuild again later. The reason for the special spring retainers besides retainer to guide clearance is standard beehive springs are sized in metrics for GM’s switch to 8mm valve stems starting on the Gen III engines. So when you use beehives with the Gen I or II SBC using 11/32 stem diameter valves you have to use these metric to US dimensions retainers so not only is the top of the spying healed properly but the US standard dimension valve locks sit properly so the ID of these retainers is Amenicn measure while the OD is metric. Talk about making being half pregnant possible.

Bogie
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Are you using the EFI or a carb?

Yes this is in the range of the cams I sighted that work well with factory EFI and they also work with a carb.

The .450 lift with a 1.5 rocker should work but it’s at the edge of L31 Vortec heads. Helping you spend your money if you use beehive springs with either Comp’s 787-16 retainer or the kit from Alex’s Parts and I think an outfit called Diablo has one also, these get around machining the top of the guide down. GM says you can run .47 on the lift with these heads but since there should be a minimum of .050 inch between the bottom of the retainer to the top of the stem’s oil seal It pays to measure first than to repair or rebuild again later. The reason for the special spring retainers besides retainer to guide clearance is standard beehive springs are sized in metrics for GM’s switch to 8mm valve stems starting on the Gen III engines. So when you use beehives with the Gen I or II SBC using 11/32 stem diameter valves you have to use these metric to US dimensions retainers so not only is the top of the spying healed properly but the US standard dimension valve locks sit properly so the ID of these retainers is Amenicn measure while the OD is metric. Talk about making being half pregnant possible.

Bogie
what set of beehives do you recommend with those comp retainers?
I got a camshaft out of a 1997 350 vortec. Trying to figure out if I should replace it or not. The engine spun a bearing so there are these spots on the cam. You can feel them, but are they bad enough to go ahead and replace the whole cam? Or can you smooth these spots out. View attachment 630146
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View attachment 630149
View attachment 630148
View attachment 630150
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View attachment 630144
Scrap it.
The cam drives the spring.
what set of beehives do you recommend with those comp retainers?
This is popular with class racers the ubiquitous blue spring.


One of my faves for cams like those I recommended if your b going to beef up the studs to 7/16 screw ins and aftermarket rollers especially the heavier stainless types as these will hold the higher RPM’s you can reach when the studs and rockers aren’t flexing.


Keep in mind that the factory roller SBC uses a 7..2 some call it 7.3 inch long pushrod not the 7.8 inches used with flat tappets.

Also the L31 Vortec heads use self guiding rockers. A change to not self guiding (pre-1987 production) requires pulling the pressed in rocker studs then milling their bosses down about half an inch. Reassembly requires steel guide plates, hardened push rods and hex base rocker studs. So this is a pretty significant and somewhat costly modification. Basically doing this and other mods on Vortec heads quickly rises to the cost of import aluminum heads. So you need a plan going in so you don’t end up scattering a lot of money.

Bogie
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The cam drives the spring.


This is popular with class racers the ubiquitous blue spring.


One of my faves for cams like those I recommended if your b going to beef up the studs to 7/16 screw ins and aftermarket rollers especially the heavier stainless types as these will hold the higher RPM’s you can reach when the studs and rockers aren’t flexing.


Keep in mind that the factory roller SBC uses a 7..2 some call it 7.3 inch long pushrod not the 7.8 inches used with flat tappets.

Also the L31 Vortec heads use self guiding rockers. A change to not self guiding (pre-1987 production) requires pulling the pressed in rocker studs then milling their bosses down about half an inch. Reassembly requires steel guide plates, hardened push rods and hex base rocker studs. So this is a pretty significant and somewhat costly modification. Basically doing this and other mods on Vortec heads quickly rises to the cost of import aluminum heads. So you need a plan going in so you don’t end up scattering a lot of money.

Bogie
I’m just going to go with that blue spring sense is best for that cam that I’m going to. Im only even doing that because my stock one is trashed and another stock one with the same specs as mine is about the same price as the one with the 450 lift. So I DEF don’t want to do any modifications required for other Springs.
I’m just going to go with that blue spring sense is best for that cam that I’m going to. Im only even doing that because my stock one is trashed and another stock one with the same specs as mine is about the same price as the one with the 450 lift. So I DEF don’t want to do any modifications required for other Springs.
Both use or better stated can use the Comp retainer. I use the term “can use” as there are other retainers on the market. I’m a simple man I try to limit the options to parts I have a history with that have proven themselves reliable when I make recommendations. That’s not necessarily to disparage anybody else’s parts.


Bogie
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Both use or better stated can use the Comp retainer. I use the term “can use” as there are other retainers on the market. I’m a simple man I try to limit the options to parts I have a history with that have proven themselves reliable when I make recommendations. That’s not necessarily to disparage anybody else’s parts.


Bogie
oh i understand completely. That’s why I come here though. I don’t have near the experience with all these different parts as most of you. Let alone the experience building engines. I wish that profession paid more and I would stop working on airplanes and do this as a career.

Instead of going through as much trial and error i figured the best start is to let y’all’s experience talk and listen to your recommendations on parts and experiences with building. This hobby is a money pt so I try to do the smartest things to mitigate the cost.

With that being said I could have gotten a crate engine for around $2600 and it would have been cheaper. But no one is going to take as much care as the person building/rebuilding a particular engine for themselves. And I’m going back with durability upgrades here and there so I’m hoping, if built right and I don’t screw anything up, this engine will outlive me and I’m only 32.
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