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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, my name is Rob and I recently traded a half ton Silverado for a 1986 S10(3200 lbs) that has a stock 2.8 liter and a 700R4 tranny. The motor has 240+thousand miles on it and is about to give finally. The tranny is also about to give, it wont shift out of first till around 30mph or around 4000rpms...... Anyways just filling you guys in on the vehicle. I have always loved V8s and Ive always loved s10s. I know my loves can be combined and I really would like to do this project in near future. I want to run a 383 with 450-500hp, a stall around 2500 with a powerglide transmission and 3.73-4.10 gears. I want it to mainly lean towards a drag vehicle yet be streetable for a secondary vehicle. I dont know much about transmissions but I know the basics, I dont know very much about powerglides, I know they have 2 gears, one being low and a direct drive. And that they shift by a determined throttle opening. My questions are, How does the fluid coupling in the transmission work ?, If they only have 2 speeds, does this mean they have a very low top end if not can you explain how so?. Would this be a good transmission for my goal ?. What is some capabilities of the transmission ?. Since Im going to be running lower gears does this affect the transmissions acceleration or top end ? I dont plan on driving 70+mph on the highway when I am traveling, I just want something that has alot of get up and will hold you in the seat.
Thank you

Something weird and just extra information on me. I was in a car wreck with a s10 and school bus 8 years ago, I was 8 years old. My dad, me, and my mom were in the s10. We were at a 4 way intersection and the bus driver failed to use her turn signal, and I dont remember how, but we slammed into the rightside bumper of the bus. The wreck took my dads life, and almost severed my left arm. I know s10 are dinky vehicles for safety, and v8 is only going to make it a life or death roller coaster. But I still love the Vehicle... My dad was a big time mechanic and had a 700hp 383 with nitrous that use to be in a 1983 s10. I want to also follow in his footsteps other than the wreck part....
Rob
 

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396flyby said:
Hi, my name is Rob and I recently traded a half ton Silverado for a 1986 S10(3200 lbs) that has a stock 2.8 liter and a 700R4 tranny. The motor has 240+thousand miles on it and is about to give finally. The tranny is also about to give, it wont shift out of first till around 30mph or around 4000rpms......

Anyways just filling you guys in on the vehicle. I have always loved V8s and Ive always loved s10s. I know my loves can be combined and I really would like to do this project in near future.

I want to run a 383 with 450-500hp, a stall around 2500 with a powerglide transmission and 3.73-4.10 gears. I want it to mainly lean towards a drag vehicle yet be streetable for a secondary vehicle. I dont know much about transmissions but I know the basics, I dont know very much about powerglides, I know they have 2 gears, one being low and a direct drive. And that they shift by a determined throttle opening.

My questions are, How does the fluid coupling in the transmission work ?,

If they only have 2 speeds, does this mean they have a very low top end if not can you explain how so?.

Would this be a good transmission for my goal ?. What is some capabilities of the transmission ?.

Since Im going to be running lower gears does this affect the transmissions acceleration or top end ? I dont plan on driving 70+mph on the highway when I am traveling, I just want something that has alot of get up and will hold you in the seat.


EDIT:

Something weird and just extra information on me. I was in a car wreck with a s10 and school bus 8 years ago, I was 8 years old. My dad, me, and my mom were in the s10. We were at a 4 way intersection and the bus driver failed to use her turn signal, and I dont remember how, but we slammed into the rightside bumper of the bus. The wreck took my dads life, and almost severed my left arm. I know s10 are dinky vehicles for safety, and v8 is only going to make it a life or death roller coaster. But I still love the Vehicle... My dad was a big time mechanic and had a 700hp 383 with nitrous that use to be in a 1983 s10. I want to also follow in his footsteps other than the wreck part....

Rob

Power glide can be built to take near any HP you will put out with your engine. All it takes in cash.

PG is a 2 speed trans as you noted. Direct gear is direct 1-1 ratio. PG will not affect highway speed, reaar gear and tire size does that.

PG uses a torque converter. Converter can be built to any specs you need for this project same as the glide.

Does your left arm function? The PG can be set up to shift via electric solenoid or gas cylinder if you need that. You can have a push button or a RPM activated shift switch.

Paraplegic folks drive race cars , so can you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Powerglides

Yes my arm functions, The winshield cut me into the bone from my elbow all the way across my bicep into my shoulder but it healed fine. I just have a hellish scar from it. Thanks for the Info. :)
 

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IF you want a MORE streetable truck, then go with at least a 3 speed auto. BUT, if it's primarily a drag car, then a Powerglide will be just the ticket. Start with a 28" long unit, preferably 67 or newer, use a steel direct hub, a 5 pack direct and 5 pack reverse, trans brake is give or take depending on your needs. Powerglides, stock, come in 1.82 and 1.76 first gear ratios; .06 spread between the two is nothing, but the strenth of the 1.76 planetary dictates finding one of those. A 1.82 first gear unit should hold up fine; it's what I always ran in my two dragsters, but they're lightweights compared to an S-10. I would step up on your converter, 4000-4500. There's a TON of aftermarket parts available for Powerglides, and they're extremely easy to work on/rebuild/modify. The only other advice I have, is to get a copy of Carl Munroes' book, "Powerglide Transmission Handbook". Watch for them on E-Bay, can be had for as little as $13.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Powerglides

Thanks for all the information, this really helped. I have one question about a torque converter that didnt let go till 4000-4500, If it has to rev that high to move, how would you drive it in town without launching into everybody's bumper at stop signs, not meant to be rude....?
 

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It DOES'NT have to rev that high to MOVE. On the street, you're going to experience a lot more "slippage" of the converter though. Basically, we're talking about "stall" here. Stall being the maximun RPM you can bring the motor up on the converter, before it won't allow the motor to rev any higher; it will also want over power your brakes; hence trans-brakes. But, the trans-brake also has to work well; with no appreciative wear in the trans (band, pump pressure, rear clutch wear and clearence, servo, etc, etc, etc). The converter WILL power the car for street driving; think of a drag car coming back on the return road, where most tracks have a 10-15 MPH speed limit, and they're NOT at "4000-4500 RPM". In fact, the rear end gears have more effect on engine RPM at that point, than the stall does. With a high stall converter, there's ALWAYS more slippage; the higher the stall, the more slippage. The idea of stall, is to get the motor into it's power band, where's it's making decent power.
 
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