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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I just finished the T5 manual transplant into my 83 Olds wagon. Originally had a th350. Then a 2004r, now a stick! I used a new Centerforce Dual friction clutch, new throwout, surfaced flywheel, finally got the hydraulic master and slave setup, man was that a nightmare! The whole setup was from a 92 Camaro. Anyways, Centerforce says their clutch, Dual Friction, requires a 400-500 mile break-in. Daily driving, stop and go, no full throttle shifts! I just took the car for its first road test. OH man am I going to like driving a stick again!!! It's been so long! It went pretty well except for the clutch will slip if I put my foot into it past 1/3 throttle. I am making about 330hp from a mildly built 350. Nothing crazy with the motor. 3.73 posi in the back with street rubber. I only put maybe 20 miles on the new setup. I didn't floor it or smoke the clutch or anything like that but I can definitely hear and see the tach move, and I can tell its slipping when I get into it a bit. It gets worse and I go up in gears and lower the revs. 5th gears will really slip if I am doing anything else than idle a 35 mph. Is this normal for such a new clutch??? I know these things have to wear together but considering its supposed to have 90% more holding power I didn't think this would happen. I have no play in the clutch pedal or in the fork either. I know the hydraulic setup is self adjusting but should there be any play at all? Right now there isn't. The clutch starts to grab with about 2 inch's to an 1 1/2 inch left of travel when I let the pedal out. I am assuming that this is about normal.
Any comments would be great!
Zeder
 

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Hotrodders.com moderator
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linkage play

I woudl think that there should be just a bit of slack or play in the linkage before the clutch disengages..

maybe a 1/2" or 1" before you feel any prssure from the clutch pedal..called "free travel" at the pedal..the clutch fork you shoudl have a bit of "wiggle" when the clutch is in the engaged position..just a few thousands will do..

Sounds to me like the linkage needs some adjusting..Not sure just exactly what you have in your setup but what you describe sounds like a lack of free play in the linkage..

just my input on this one..

OMT
 

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wind & fire = guides to power
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You most certainly need some slack, any pressure at all on the release fork will cause it to dramatically reduce holding force.
Your clutch pedal should have some free play(1/4") before ANY pressure at all is applied to the clutch master cylinder. If it does have play check the plunger and make sure that it is not holding any pressure against the clutch fork(which should also have a slight amount of play).
If those check out and there is slack you need to start looking inside the bellhousing for problems like the clutch not sliding freely on the input splines.
Also it must be asked ...did the disc, pressure plate and flywheel stay free from grease and oil on installation? Is there adequate pressure from the pressure plate on the pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You got it!

Hi Guys,
You were right. I depressed the clutch pedal and opened the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and let the pressure bleed off. Now the clutch works great! I had such a difficult time getting all the air out of the hydraulics with everything in the car I ended up removing the master and slave and bench bleeding the entire system out of the car. I then installed the whole setup as a closed system. I didn't take it apart to install it. I was so happy to finally have some pressure and have a solid clutch pedal. I just figured the system would balance itself out. I guess bleeding the pedal one time "reset" the system. Again, thanks for your help! It is such a blast to drive a stick with a good V8! The wagon is basically an IROC with 4 doors and cargo space now. It is going to surprise a lot of people!
Zeder
 
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