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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Year One Power Crate 350 with the Edelbrock E-Tech package, hyd roller, RPM air gap, Pro Systems XC built by Patrick, Dynatech Musclemaxx headers, older MSD Pro Billet, 6AL, Blaster II coil, Moroso Ultra 40 wires. The problem I'm having is it acts like there is a miss somewhere. This engine has about 250 miles on it, and the miss is getting worse. I changed plugs, and they looked like they came out of a fuel injected engine. Perfect color. Cleaned the cap, and rotor, made sure the pick up in Pro billet was clean, switched to another 6AL, rewired the 6AL straight to battery to make sure it was good. 14.7 VDC constant, readjusted the rockers, ran a compression test, 160psi across the board, checked all wires individual with a spark plug, has good fire, and it advances with engine speed, tried two different carbs, checked fuel pressure 7psi, checked all 8 primary tubes from cold with a thermal heat gun and 5 of 8 were ranging 400 degrees after 1 min of run time, and three were in the 250 to 290 range. Is there anyway the Pro billet could be causing an erratic spark issue? I'm at a total loss this far. Thanks for any information
 

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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I ran new #2 high grade electrolytic grade copper from back of engine to firewall where the factory ground was and used a good star washer, ran another ground using the same copper wire from chassis to block, with new battery cables from block to battery. 6AL is grounded direct to battery, constant is hooked directly to battery, ignition is ran with a new wire to the fuse box and all have 14.5 volts running under load. Fired car this morning and it has the same issues. At this point, having tested everything, I am almost 100% positive that the Pro Billet, which is the older 8555 unit, is the issue. It's te last piece of the puzzle in my opinion... I plan to contact ATK engines, they built the engine for Year One, tomorrow to find out what they think. Unless I can find another Pro Billet close by to try. Right now timing is at 16 degrees initial and 36 total with the black stop bushing, and I have the light silver springs in it. I had the blue springs in before and there was no change. Also took the Autolite plugs to .045 instead of the factory gap of .038
 

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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Headed to Tulsa in an hour or so to get another Pro billet, coil, and plug wires. I'll start with the coil, then wires, then pro billet. If none of this works, then I'm out of options!!!
 

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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Changed all ignition with no change. Engine missed at idle and during acceleration with the Pro Systems carb, and misses at partial throttle around 2000-2500 with the Edelbrock
 

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open hood(car running) turn of lights in shop,look for arcs around VCs or headers.Use your wifes plant mister to sprinkle wires. make sure wires are all separated.
have you adjusted the plug gap?
 

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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
open hood(car running) turn of lights in shop,look for arcs around VCs or headers.Use your wifes plant mister to sprinkle wires. make sure wires are all separated.
have you adjusted the plug gap?
Yes, new plugs are gapped .045, old plugs were .038 and no change. Installed a different set of new plug wires, Taylor 8mm, and no change. Wires are separated.
 

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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Richen up the carb and see if the miss goes away. Distribution in the intake may be causing one cylinder to missfire at certain RPM.
Changed carbs back to the Edelbrock and the problem went away. There is still a slight bogg in the Eddy, but it's because of the secondaries not opening soon enough. But at least this tells me that the Pro Systems carb has some trash or something going on there. It's very strange why it's running great now. Like I said, chasing a ghost!!!
 

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FWIW, I have seen more than a few problems lately with old muscle cars trying to run gasohol, which is pretty much all thats available in my area. Vapor lock issues in the summer, surging under cruise, etc which can be eliminated by running actual gasoline. I wonder in the pumps have more than 10% alcohol like they claim. Old rubber parts in the fuel system are also a problem with the new gasoline.
 

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BOOMER SOONER
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256 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE: I took the 4150 apart and found a nice piece of fuel line trash, I built 6-AN fuel line, wedged in one of the passages of the primary metering block. Also found another great piece of fuel line trash blocking the hole in the secondary pump outlet. Anyway, played with three steps of PV, ended up using 5.5, and dialed the idle mixture screws to 7/8 turn out from seat. Re adjusted the idle transfer slots on primary side, and adjusted idle speed mainly with the secondary idle adjustment. Then started playing with pump arm gap. Adjusted to have a slight gap in the pump arm and pump lever.

Then came timing. To make a long story short, initial timing is a crazy 24 degrees. With heavy springs installed for a slow curve, and used a silver stop bushing. Total timing at 3000 is now 34 degrees. Car starts great, idles great, is very responsive, has almost zero transition into the secondaries on a double pumper, and pulls very hard from 2800 to 6000 rpm. Still a bit concerned with having 24 degrees initial, but there is zero pinging. Anyway, thoughts and comments are welcome. I believe my rear end gear is a 3.08:1 instead of the axle code stating 2.56:1. I'm turning 2500 rpm at 65 with a 27" tire.
 

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With some of the aftermarket camshafts it will take alot of initial timing. There is nothing wrong with it. Check the total timing at 3500 rpms and above to make sure all the mechanical advance is in at 3000 rpms. The silver bushing allows 25 degrees advance. Check out this website for 10* and 14* advance limiter bushings it sounds like you will need them. Tuning MSD Distributors. Usually it takes one blue spring and one light silver spring to get the advance all in by 3000 rpms. Use a vacuum guage to tune your carburetor. Adjust the idle mixture screws out to get the highest vacuum reading.
 
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