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Hi,
I had a couple of questions regarding decent, low cost cranks. I don't really need any super trick features but just a solid, STRONG unit.

The motor it will be put in is a 360-380 ci small block ford with 11:1 compression, solid roller cam, and yates D3 cylinder heads, essentially a de-tuned NASCAR motor. The rev-limit will be around ~7500 rpm (estimated output of ~650 hp). I will be investing in some good con rods, ie Crower or C&A billets. The pistons will be lightweight JE reverse domes.

What kind of crank do I need to hold up to this? Ford racing has a AMS 6415 forged crank for $400, or I could spring for a Callies dragonslayer ($750) or one of the Scat 4340 units. If you have any recommedations, or practical experience, please chime in.

Thanks for your input. :evil:
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Even though the callies crank is more expensive I think it's the best route. The scat cranks are made offshore and as long as they are meticulously checked over I would'nt hesitate to use them. Scat does make a forged crank that can take 500 horse in a drag engine but I've seen them break in circle track stuff making 600. If the crank is found to be out of true or balanced wrong you can send it back and get another, probably at the cost of shipping though.

Even though the callies crank is more expensive I think it's the best route. The scat cranks are made offshore and as long as they are meticulously checked over I would'nt hesitate to use them. Scat does make a forged crank that can take 500 horse in a drag engine but I've seen them break in circle track stuff making 600. If the crank is found to be out of true or balanced wrong you can send it back and get another, probably at the cost of shipping though.
 

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call me crazy, but i'd throw in the ford unit.

if your concerned about breakage, go with the callies, but i imagine the ford piece would do fine.

it's not often you find a ford crank that failed. especially a forged piece.:thumbup:
 
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