Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok 1st off, this is a Budget CAM deal cause I don't wanna put a lot of $ into this POS beater truck I bought. But I got no choice since it looks like two lobes are prob gone on the stock cam, could be lifters but I seriously doubt it. Truck already had a blown head gasket(replaced n vortec heads swapped by previous owner n I don't know much bout the lower end). YES I know how to break in a flat tappet cam(done several w/o issue, one not long ago) and will used proper ZDDP

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to mention the truck is a manual trans and I haven't jacked it up to figure out the rear gear. It's getting a dual pane intake, i may do some quick bowl work on the heads and shorty headers for now but deff no race truck. I'll use ls blue springs and comp 787 retainers cause I have them already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
I've seen guys here suggest Summit cams for budget builds, but I wouldn't know which to suggest.
Next question would be whether you're looking for best performance at that CR, or best mileage?
How are you using the truck?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, you're still going to have to specify how you're going to use it.
Are you planning on drifting with it?
Also a good point, it'll be mostly a general cruiser/burnout/parts runner, that'll prob get maybe taken to a track event here n there once local things open back up. That said I may check out a drift even but it's not a dedicated build for anything. I'm more of a drag race guy and prefer lighter cars, if I do build a drag truck it'll be something a lot more solid.

Couple cams I'm considering are Summit k1103 or k1105, the kits are back down to $112 and I've used the 1103 before in a mild 355
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'd say the 1103 is the best choice of the two, unless you've got a 2500+ stall and gears...
Better low end.
Manual trans, think it may be NV3500 witch seems to have steep 1 & 2. Why I am considering the 1105, plus I would say I'm above average for tuning a picky combo but no pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,224 Posts
Given that you're going to be using this as a jack of all trades, and you have skillz; why not a solid lifter cam? Just a thought. Eric has recommended Crower solids for awhile, so don't be surprised if you see that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Given that you're going to be using this as a jack of all trades, and you have skillz; why not a solid lifter cam? Just a thought. Eric has recommended Crower solids for awhile, so don't be surprised if you see that.
That would be ideal but I'm too lazy for solid lifters. I say "lash valves" in my video but I mean set hydraulic preload. Fire n forget, well after cam break in. I don't have a ton of exp, just I know some stuff n some peeps who do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
220 @ 0.050 duration, 108 lobe separation, as much lift as you can find, use 1.6 ratio rockers
I'll prob use the stock stamped rockers for now but that is another good point! I don't have any roller self aligning, all my good rockers need guideplates & 7/16 studs. I don't wanna get these heads machined and hope I don't see a crack when I pull em for some light & quick port work. Later I may buy a set of the $100 1.6 stamped rockers or if I can find a deal on NEW 1.6 rollers over the winter. I'll be using some 3/8 speedway motors studs, I bought two sets when I made the stud video. I don't wanna get sidetracked with the heads but since I'll be right there and they were off not too long ago, my goals is to be quick n have em back on in 3-4 days. Bowls/studs/valves/maybe paint

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
Well since u said the cam is flat . I would not waste the time unless u are going to do a full teardown and wash it out. Right now those cam lobe particles are in your oil system and will be embedded in your bearings soon . The rest is history after that. At least drop the pan rinse out the lower end , and clean and inspect the bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well since u said the cam is flat . I would not waste the time unless u are going to do a full teardown and wash it out. Right now those cam lobe particles are in your oil system and will be embedded in your bearings soon . The rest is history after that. At least drop the pan rinse out the lower end , and clean and inspect the bearings.
Actually surprised no1 brought that up earlier, I don't care about this engine(also why won't put much time into heads or use good roller rockers). If it was good parts it would be tore down and thoroughly cleaned. With this engine if I tear it down it'll be scrap, cause I'm sure I'll find plenty wrong with it. I've tore enough sbc down that wasn't worth putting back together but who knows how long they'd have run if left alone. Run it till she blows! I'm betting it already has a poor man refresh ball hone and new bearings from the look of the pistons in Nightcahsers vid. Prob already plenty of scotchbrite rolo disc material floating around in the oil.

LOL if it survives for awhile it may get nitrous just for kicks, well after I have another engine ready.

I pulled some caps on another old 350 & the bearings looked horrible, put em back on n ran it for a few more years with at least 300 6000rpm 1/4 miles passes. Just put fresh bearings in not long ago and the crank could use a polish but nothing that catches my nails. I don't expect 100k or even 10k, could not even make it out the driveway. But from my exp SBC will tolerate a lot more than some think.

Also why I'm tempted to pull that 1103 cam and lifters out of a 355 and just run it, not suppose to reuse lifters in a diff block even if you keep em in order but I've done that before for maybe 5k before loosing a lobe. Still I'd like to go thru that 355 maybe and reuse that cam or now that I think bout it that 355's prior cam lost a few lobes too and I never tore it down, so maybe I will use that cam since it's technically already contaminated with cam lobe junk and broke in LOL prob steal the timing set as well. FYI it's out because I burnt a valve on the modded 305 heads. Still the truck 350 could surprise me and go for a long time, a fresh cheap cam would last long if it did.

It is a good point and good advise, just not for this budget beater.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
Well since u said the cam is flat . I would not waste the time unless u are going to do a full teardown and wash it out. Right now those cam lobe particles are in your oil system and will be embedded in your bearings soon . The rest is history after that. At least drop the pan rinse out the lower end , and clean and inspect the bearings.
Had a customer at a shop where I used to work part-time who brought in a pretty nice Chevelle that had a 454 (not original) with a flat lobe. We tried to talk him into letting us tear the engine down, but he didn't want to spend the money, and said he wouldn't blame us for any problems. Since my boss knew him well, he told me to go ahead and replace the cam, lifters, and timing set and change the oil & filter. When done with the work, I fired up the engine, broke in the cam, and hoped that it would make it through a test drive, which it did.

Turns that thing was still running fine a couple years later! However, that was not the proper way to do it. So, as Dirty Harry would say, "Do you feel lucky, punk?"
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top