[BigBlockBabe]

I've got a '78 Bronco Ranger XLT, two tone blue and silver. My brother wants to paint it before we drop in the 429, but I can't find anything online about how to remove this chrome. Everyone I talk to, tells me its a PITA and that I might damage the chrome trying to take it off.

Can I cheat and just tape off the chrome pieces real good? Will it work or look really cheesy? We're painting it back like it is, so its not like there will be a contrasting color peeking out anywhere.

Another thing is the rust. :-/ Here's some pics...

<a href="http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/455/295/bcoprofile.jpg" target="_blank">Bronco profile.</a>

<a href="http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/455/295/brutus_rust.JPG" target="_blank">Rust.</a>

<a href="http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/455/295/brutus_topper.JPG" target="_blank">Bad paint.</a>

Thanks guys!

 

[BigBlockBabe]

Something I just thought of, IF I should tape off the chrome...what kinda tape should I use that won't leave a residue on my chrome pieces?

 

[roys63]

ONLY! 3M masking tape! And keep it out of the sun and weather.

 

[Halloweenking]

Deffinatly agree with roy, only 3M and keep in in the garage. I told you how to remove it and stand by the decision to remove it. It looks tacky to tape off aluminum trim. I've alo already adressed your other body quandries. Of course I'm talking about the bronco!

HK

 

[CustomChrome]

I'm with HK on this one. Remove the trim.

 

[trees]

B Cubed, the pic you labled Rust says take the trim OFF!!!. It looks like you have the type trim that is held on with clips that can be removed after you take the trim off. There most likely is a clip with a screw and nut at each end of the trim piece. Removing the nut and pushing the screws out is simple. You remove the trim from the remaining clips by pushing up on the trim to free the top part of the clip and tilt top of the trim away from the body. When the top is free the entire length, then you can remove it by pushing down to clear the clips. Now if you want to practice this before doing it for real, go the the junk yard, find a beat up Bronc or F150 PU similiar to yours and start removing until you can do it without damaging the clips or trim!! Re installing is the reverse.

Trees

 

[bullheimer]

come on babe-ee, what do you think is under that chrome anyway?? more rust that'll bubble up a year after the paint job.

hey trees, what's that truck in your avatar? a ford? looks alot like my new 40 chev

 

[trees]

Yeah, Bull. Just another old Tough Ford with a Heartbeat!!

Trees

 

[BstMech]

Originally posted by trees:
<strong>Yeah, Bull. Just another old Tough Ford with a Heartbeat!!

Trees</strong><hr></blockquote>

Is that like "Built Ford tough, with Chevy stuff"?

 

[dmorris1200]

Or was that "Built Ford Tough, with cheap stuff"

 

[trees]

Nah, DMorris, just fits the available space better. I follow the line of least resistance as much as possible. Besides, if Winston Cup can get by with putting the same motor in a special built frame with basically the same motors, trannys and suspension parts, but skins to make them look like a Ford, Chevy, or Dodge, its good enough for me. By the way, check out the first pic in my photo album. A nice docile little Pony convert that has the origional sweet little 289, bored .30 over. The Granada spindles, rotors and calipers are the only things that are not origional or reproduced!

Trees

[ June 02, 2003: Message edited by: trees ]</p>

 

[dmorris1200]

I was just playin' around. I like mine FoMoCo powered but to each his own.