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I have a 1970 chevelle that has a problem with run-on. I had a used one wire altenator that either didnt work from the start or I hooked it up wrong but it would not charge or let the car shut off. I bought a new one wire 100 amp altenator hooked it up correctly jumped the voltage regulator and cut the wire to the GEN light. It has worked fine for the last six months but when I turned on the headlights last night they were dim and my blinkers did not work. When I tried to shut the car off it wouldnt, so I had to pull the one wire off the back of the altenator before it would shut off. I reconnected the altenator wire to the POS terminal on the battery(altenator bypassed) and the headlights are brighter and the car will shut off normally though my blinkers still dont work. Anyone have any advice or where I can find a wiring diagram for this setup?
 

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The run-on problem is the ignition switch is bad or the starter solenoid (from the R terminal) is hot at all times.

This assumes everything is wired correctly.

Try this test.
Run engine with everything connected. Turn off the ignition switch. Then disconnect the wire, from the ignition switch, at the coil. If the engine stops it's a bad ignition switch. If the engine does not stop, disconnect the wire from the starter solenoid at the coil. If the engine stops, the the solenoid is bad. If the engine does not stop the car is possessed by the devil.

Also, check for poor grounds, loose connections and battery condition.
Blown fuses and burned out lamps could cause the turn-signal problem.

vicrod
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

If your still having run on problems, you may need to install a diode at the HEI or coil Battery wire to prevent this..

Your Alternator output wire should be located at the Solenoid "B" Terminal (or where the battery cable connects) Via a proper fuse link, If it is located on elsewhere, it may be past the ignition switch , and not isolating the system from the battery when the switch is in the off position..(run on..)

Your old regulator should not be involved at all except to jump all the "Power or Battery" side wires together, (like horn relay and other support wires) and the lamp disconnect.

On the turn-signals, as Vicrod said check the grounds, then if good, Check the fuse, If good, Check the flasher unit..It may be open. If good you will have to troubleshoot through the switch from the column connector with an OHM meter to insure the switch and plug are good.

Doc :pimp:
 
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