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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well guys, I have a '50 Chevy 3100, with a 235 I6 and a 2speed powerglide in it.

A little history... It was bought it the mid to late 80's by my pappaw who did some work on it, then he pretty much gave up on it. It sat in his backyard for about 12 or so years, then he gave it to me last year..

We replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, points, rotor, coil, fuel lines, fuel pump, did a carb rebuild, changed oil, ect.

It ran GREAT for about 2 months. I didnt' get to drive it, but I would start it every few days and let it run for 15-20 minutes. Turns out the hood was leaking, and everything got wet.. it ran ROUGH after that. and finally wouldn't do anything at all late last summer.


Today, I was playing with it again, and put the old coil back on, and hit the points with some 400grit sandpaper. It fired right up... but it's still running rough.

Now, for my question... What should I move on to? points are at 17, incase your wondering. I'm completly lost as of now, and looking for any info ya'll can give me.

Sorry for the long post... and thanks in advance for any help.
 

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you can never know to much
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
buggmann said:
hey here is a link you might need to check out
they have all the specs on what you are working
on it helped me out im working on a 1953 chevy
with a 235 i had to put a new set of points and
had to reset them hope this helps

buggmann



http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/index.htm
Wow, that is a great site! Thanks! I bookmarked that one. :thumbup:

What do you mean by "reset the points" exactly?
 

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you can never know to much
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
matt167 said:
put a new distributor cap on it.. probably cracked causing a miss.. throw another condensor at it too, probably could use it

It has a new cap on it, as of last summer. and it hasn't been run long AT ALL with this new stuff. Probably 2-3 hours at the most.
 

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Take the distributor cap off, clean it thoroughly inside with a moist rag and a drop of dishwash detergent on the rag, then dry it thoroughly with a hair dryer. Sometimes there will be a little carbon tracking inside the cap that will allow spark to go from one terminal to another when it's not supposed to.
 

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I had a new cap crack bad enough the engine would not start on my 235.. couldn't get it running until someone on here suggested the cap.. I took a look and found several cracks.. new 1 and it started and ran smooth.. prior to actully giving a no start it was starting to run kina badly... try what Tech says to get rid of carbon tracking ( which will do the same thing as a crack ) but if that doesn't do it, replace the cap
 

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you can never know to much
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright, I'll try cleaning the cap. If that don't work, I'll just pick up a new one. Even if that isnt the problem, I'll need a new one eventually anyway..

It will probably be a couple days, but I'll report back with my results.


:welcome:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, so I finally got around to updating this.

I cleaned the old distributer cap with a little bit of compressed air (Probably a bad idea, considering compressed air has moisture in it, thought about that right after I got done :nono: ) Cleaned it out with my shirt, and put in on the truck.

Doesn't seem to be much change at all, if any.

While listening to it run though, I noticed something I didn't the other day. When it's running, it has a ticking sound.. I know these motors are a little loud when first started, but this seems out of the ordinary..

I think my next step would be a pressure test, but I don't have the tools for that.. So I guess I will pull the valve cover and inspect things under there (I have a new gasket, so why not?)

What should I look for? :thumbup:


haha, I realize I sound like I have NO clue what I'm doing, and for the most part I don't. But I'm not afraid to tear into most things, and try to fix it. Figure if I'm gonna drive old vehicles, and drive them like I stole 'em at that.. I better learn now how to fix them! :p
 

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you can never know to much
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I didnt' get to mess with it today.. By the time I got done with home-school it was 2pm, and I had youth at 6:30. Figured I would tear into it, and not get it back together in time. :D


Guess I'll look at it tommorrow.. (haha, I keep saying that)
 

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sounds like a stuck lifter or stuck valve... not sure if your 235 has solids or hydraulic as thru the years, they came with both.. but, if your lifter gets stuck, it'll hold the valve open, create a tick and it won't have compression and thus a miss.. 235's run smooth enough you could be down a cylinder and not notice it at idle... also had a valve stick open on my '65 Rambler ( solid lifter 6 ). pushrod came out of the pocket on the lifter and caused a dead cylinder
 

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If your worried about tearing into things too much throw a vacuum gauge on the motor and see what you get. Wont take much more than a vacuum line. If its a stuck valve the needle will drop occasionally about 4 inches from its normal idling reading. Here is an article on vacuum gauge diagnostics, very helpful and an all around good diagnostic tool for around fifty bucks. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using-a-Vacuum-Gauge-for-Engine-Diagnostics/A_2393/article.html Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
matt167 said:
sounds like a stuck lifter or stuck valve... not sure if your 235 has solids or hydraulic as thru the years, they came with both.. but, if your lifter gets stuck, it'll hold the valve open, create a tick and it won't have compression and thus a miss.. 235's run smooth enough you could be down a cylinder and not notice it at idle... also had a valve stick open on my '65 Rambler ( solid lifter 6 ). pushrod came out of the pocket on the lifter and caused a dead cylinder

That's what I was thinking, and dad thinks so to, but he ain't 100% sure.

I figured I would be able to tell if was missing, but maybe not..

As of right now, the whole truck shakes when it's running. I can stand there and watch it and feel it :pain:


zildjian4life218 said:
If your worried about tearing into things too much throw a vacuum gauge on the motor and see what you get. Wont take much more than a vacuum line. If its a stuck valve the needle will drop occasionally about 4 inches from its normal idling reading. Here is an article on vacuum gauge diagnostics, very helpful and an all around good diagnostic tool for around fifty bucks. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using-a-Vacuum-Gauge-for-Engine-Diagnostics/A_2393/article.html Hope this helps

I reallly need to get one of those, but haven't been anywhere to get one. :rolleyes:

Right now I need a vacuum gauge and a compression tester.

Guess I'll call around and see if anybody I know has either.. if not I'll try and get them. (plan on buying them eventually, but eventually don't help none right now :p )
 
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