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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question is: I was told to set it at 8 degrees, and when l did that, it didn't feel like it had much power so l decided to turn the distributor to the point that the rpm picked up most. And at that point, the timing mark doesn't touch any of the degree's plate. It's like an inch off the plate.... The timing mark is on the distributor side. I drove it for miles like that, would that be harmful on the engine or can l just leave it? Thanks
 

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Question is: I was told to set it at 8 degrees, and when l did that, it didn't feel like it had much power so l decided to turn the distributor to the point that the rpm picked up most. And at that point, the timing mark doesn't touch any of the degree's plate. It's like an inch off the plate.... The timing mark is on the distributor side. I drove it for miles like that, would that be harmful on the engine or can l just leave it? Thanks
Often adding initial timing helps pick up the off-idle response and will increase the vacuum. Both good things, all else being equal.

BUT!!! If you increase the initial timing, you have to compensate for it by reducing the amount of mechanical timing the distributor gives, at least in most cases. The total timing can be set to be all in at the earliest rpm that the engine will allow w/o detonation. In most performance applications this will be in the area of 3000 rpm. The exact rpm will vary from engine to engine. But remember- no detonation.

Info on setting up a performance timing advance curve is here. The page is on the GM HEI, but the timing advance info is basically universal.

If you are running off the end of the timing marks, you can make a timing tape (or buy one). You can also use a dial back timing light.

To see if the damper is slipping, see the info here.

If there's any question if the timing marks are correct, verify TDC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I already got the HEI, and l got a hammer:smash:
Do you have any pictures to show me what l gotta do. Or are you saying l got to use a hammer to dent the headers lol, l'm not afraid to do that
 

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And you'll need to massage the odd looking washers that hold the head and manifold on. Each one is shaped different. On each stud. They'll need some grinding on one side. Thickness of header flange and intake flange will be different. Might want to unscrew the locating lugs on each end of the head and replace with studs and nuts too!
I bet you thought it was a bolt on!!
 
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