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Chevy 292 L6

4K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Too Many Projects 
#1 ·
Does anyone have experience with Clifford Performance stuff with a 6?
 
#3 ·
The Clifford is a performance oriented intake. Most generally they aren't the best fit for a daily driver due to several reasons, they are big very similar to putting a big single plane intake on a V as compared to a well designed dual plane and they are hard to heat. Which a lack there of creates an issue with the fuel vapor turning into a liquid causing droplets of fuel to drop out of the fuel vapor and collect on the intake walls until the air speed picks up to evaporate the droplets - this leads to poor low speed and below 50-60 deg performance (bog). On the other hand, if you're build is all about performance, i.e. big cam, long tube headers, compression increases, modified head, high rpm, etc., then the Clifford is the way to go.

Get a hold of Tom Lowe that Too Many Projects linked above. He is better than a good guy and he'll set you straight. He'll tell you about putting 'lumps' into the head, trust me, they work.

Take a look here as well : Inliners International devoted to all Inline powered vehicles

Good luck - Jim
 
#4 ·
Tom is who suggested the Clifford intake for my engine to work with his cam and valve set-up. The big problem with the 4 barrel intake is that many people over carb them with a 600 cfm carb. I have a Holley 390, as Tom suggested, and it ran great on the break-in stand. The engine is running the original pistons with the head shaved .060 for compression. No lump port, as it's going in a 2 ton truck and I was looking for more torque than hp. I do have Hedman long tube headers to enhance the torque and a Pertronix billet distributor and high volt coil for spark.



 
#5 ·
Tom is who suggested the Clifford intake for my engine to work with his cam and valve set-up. The big problem with the 4 barrel intake is that many people over carb them with a 600 cfm carb. I have a Holley 390, as Tom suggested, and it ran great on the break-in stand. The engine is running the original pistons with the head shaved .060 for compression. No lump port, as it's going in a 2 ton truck and I was looking for more torque than hp. I do have Hedman long tube headers to enhance the torque and a Pertronix billet distributor and high volt coil for spark.
Nice looking motor. We have a similar set up on a 250, Offy 4 barrel intake and Langdon headers rather than what you have. We are running a 390 as well. In a 67 C20 (heavy truck). Regarding the lumps, I originally built it with a stock head and then bought another head and put the lumps in - the seat of your pants dyno felt like 30+ with the lumps. IMO for the cost of them I figured there was no reason to put them in. Especially as a DIY project.

p.s.- your carb should be turned 90 degrees - better flow to all cylinders.
 
#7 ·
Offy intakes are easy enough to find in four barrel just make sure you get the ones meant for water without the junk shiny plugs or the thing will leak. It is a easy enough fix if you get one for free kind of deal though. I ran 3/4 line directly from under the thermostat to the intake then to the heater core to ensure the intake was the first thing getting heat.

Stove bolt headers are worth there weight and fit great on a chevy truck. If you have a manual clutch linkage and want to run 2.5 pipes the linkage will need to be trimmed slightly.

After running that 390 I will not run another. It is a pain to adjust the fast idle on the offy intake. You are better pulling the carb a few times. There are a few other vices. But for what that thing cost you can go double that and get a 2 sensor efi kit.

Once you help that engine breath and get more fire it will wake it up nicely for some added power you can feel and use where it is needed.
 
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