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DETAILING GOD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a nice chevy suburban 3/4 ton 2wd 4:10 factory locker rear w/13" drums the backing plates have serious groves from the shoe wear and hang up ....this also makes a vibration when stopping

i've looked in the research dept and the net and haven't been able to find a conversion for a 8 lug truck ...also only one side is available before i take the backing plates off and fill the groves with my mig welder i thought i would ask the expertize of any one who could shed some light on my delema

ultimately i would like to go disk the bigger the better

i know trees and under brush is a effective braking system but im a real big fan of hydraulics

any and all info will be greatly appreciated & knowledge of the complete conversion from master to pads e-brake brake lines etc...
to quote zz top been around the block a time or two i fount out only the best will do ...& its better to have it than to need it alot

thanks for the help
ill post any thing i learn elsewhere
rob "slowride 66"
 

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I've got pics on the computer here somewhere.

I've seen this swap done and had links to where to buy what, and what to use, to do the swap.

I have even found caliper brackets on E-bay for this swap.

OK, I found them. You will need calipers with the E-brake from a 76 Cadillac ElDorado if you want that option.
 

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A picture of the 1976 Cadillac ElDorado rear disc brake caliper with emergency brake provision.


If I get the time tonight I will put a link to a website that has a step-by-step swap for the 14-bolt axle.

I also have a 14-bolt spindle out in the shop with a rotor mounted on it where the drum would have normally been, I'll see what I can do about a picture of that too.
 

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It is a 10.5" 14B full floater right? They also put 9.5" 14B semi-floaters under some of those.

I've never seen a disc swap on the 9.5" axle (not that it can't be done or that there isn't a kit -- I've just never seen it)

I did a disc swap on my 10.5". I used some of the brackets M&M posted (the ones with the tube spacers because they were cheeper), some 77 K20 front rotors, and some front calipers. I then got a kit from highangledriveline.com that put an e-brake on the transfer case output.

When you get the rotors make sure the counterbore for the studs is big enough for the 14B studs head. On some rotors the counterbore isn't big enough and the stud won't sit flush.
 

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DETAILING GOD
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
junk yard blues

ok will it be the same my axel is not a floater like the pic
you have no idea how many of those calipers Ive thrown into the core bin during the 12 years in the bone yards

could you elaborate on the counter boring please the bracket looks simple if i had one i could prob build one ...maybee

got to go to wallllsssmarts and get some black ink for the printer
and if i knew how to post pics i would ok off to hell aaaa i mean walmartthanks
rob
 

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The 10.5 full floater rear cover looks like this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=7939230680&rd=1.

The 9.5 semi floater rear cover looks like this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=7939638046&rd=1.


If you got 13" drums, I bet you got a full floater. The 14-bolt semi-floaters were 1st installed in the 1981 3/4-ton chassis.

Here is a complete disk brake conversion for the full floater on Ebay right now:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42605&item=7939232163&rd=1
 

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Here's a pic of the 14-bolt semi floater.


And a pic of the brake drum backing plate and axleshaft as installed.


I did a couple searches on the availability of this axle having a disc brake conversion kit, and came up with nothing.

If you had the 4-bolt backing plate bolt pattern, and a set of rotors that fit the axleshafts (the mounting flange may have to be turned down to fit inside the rotor), anyone with a moderate amount of fabrication skills can make the caliper brackets you need with just a set of accurate measurements.
 

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DETAILING GOD
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
brake pains

yea when i look @ those brackets 1 i see no splash cover is it necessary prob not but the thing that bothers me is those brackets kinda look wimpy

on the 1st pic i see spacers i was wondering why not male it a thicker piece of steel also the question arises in my mind(whats left)
is there a special type of metal i would use to fabricate this

also as far as fabricating micgiver ain't got nothing on me what
exactly are the rotors and calipers do i need to change the master i was talking to a bud of mine and he said that when they do this on the race cars they take out the proportioning valve and change the master for a capacity reason also i have two proprtion valves ON on the rear let me know what u think about all this mess
i tend to over think things over build and sometimes make alot more work for myself one more thinga what do u think about a mico lock for a e-brake system?
 

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For the most part splash guards arn't needed. They keep the rotors from warping/cracking if you get them very hot and drive thru some water.

If you do want splash guards get a K20 (somewhere around 77) and take the backing plates off. The splash guard is built into the caliper mount and the whole thing is 1/4" thick. You will have to weld some of the bolt holes shut (because there is 6 of them), make a spacer to weld onto it, and drill it out for the pattern on the axle flange. I have heard of people doing this for the 14FF but I'm sure it will work for the 14SF as well.

Next would be rotors. On the 14FF axles they use 77 K20 front rotors. You will have to (most likely) have the back side of the axle flange machined so that the face of the rotor can sit flush against it. You will most likely have to find some new studs that will hold the 2 together. When you get the studs check to be sure that the head of the stud will fit in the counterbore on the back side of the rotor.

If you want an e-brake you need to use 78 caddy (eldarado) calipers. There are only like 2 years of caliper that will work over the 1.25" K20 rotors. If you don't need an e-brake (which I think you do) you can use K5-K20 calipers. If you use older ones (pre 78?) they will have 3/8" banjo bolt holes. If you use later ones (79-91) they will have 10mm banjo bolt holes.

You could also look at taking the disc brakes off a late modle 8-lug truck (H2's use a 9.5" with e-locker and disc brakes), or maybe just the rotors/calipers and make your own bracket. If you can find the late modle stuff I think you will be much happier with the e-brake. They use a small drum inside the rotor which holes alot better then the caddy calipers.
 

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Here's a set of '70 Eldorado calipers with the brake also. They're mounted on a FAB-9 rear, but I only want to show the '70 calipers have the e-brake as well. I fabricated the brackets out of 3/8 stock, the heavy brackets M&M shows are very stout, much heavier than the ones that came with my kit, which I copied but modified somewhat.

If I had the option at the time I would have opted for bolt on instead of the weld-on brackets too. Just some food for thought.

Larry
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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i bought my kit for like $500 from a co. i think was called TSM. i got brackets about like yours, stock rotors and had to buy calipers or vice versa. basically all you need are the brackets that look like the above and then you buy the rest of the crap that fits the front axle of a 4x4. i remember i had to grind a tab off the calipers and it took hours for both. a simple slot in the bracket would have worked. with all four discs, i was able to use the stock 3/4 ton porportioning valve and the pb booster as well and reservior too. go to my photo album i have pics there of everything. oh yeah as for the splaxh plates, i hammered miine off. discs are self cleaning and you dont need them, in fact they tend to hold debris in. i have been 4 wheeling alot in the mud and crap and i never have had a problem. i like them off so people can see them and go ooooooooo and aaaaaaaaahhh!
 

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Rear disc conversion

I am also preparing to convert a 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban rear end to disc brakes (1972 3-door). It appears to be fairly straight forward, the bracket to hold the calipers would be nice to get pre-fab'd, is that possible? I'm using disc off of a 74 Chevy only because I have them and they match the ones I installed on the front. I'm also going to use the calipers off a 79 Cad. (because of the E brake) The question I have is will the proportioning valve off the Cadillac work also or will any one do that is disc-disc? If the Cadillac will work will I also have to change the booster?
 

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www.shakerbuilt.com had the part numbers and instructions for the 3/4 swap. I got my adapters off of Ebay, just did a search for 14 bolt and they came up. SICK!!!! Its the most amazing feeling driving that 73 tank of a truck, and having it stop on a dime. Didnt even need a proportioning valve. You will need to run lines to your calipers tho, as a hard line will no longer work unless you have an adapter...

Highly recommended swap :D
 

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I think I'd still run rubber hoses to the calipers. It'll make things a lot easier to deal with, when changing pads It will also allow the caliper to "float" correctly, for maximum pad life, and combat uneven wear. We all seen our share of cars with full pad on the outside, and metal to metal on the inside. (or vice versa)
Most brake hoses are fitted for a frame mount, and feature inverted flare on the frame end, so a steel line will screw right in.
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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i dont know but i seriously doubt it. i read in 4x4 mag that the 14 bolt's stuff all is useable with discs because it takes alot more force to push discs together than it does for shoes. except that the size of the drums on the 14 bolt are so big and heavy, that it transfers over to the discs without mods. i would doubt that the stock cadillacs drums are anywhere near the size and weight of the truck's, which is why i say you will have to find an aftermarket one. or one from a 14 bolt anyway. as for the brackets, the calipers are the same i am pretty sure, but i am not sure if the bolt pattern on a 14 bolt will match up with the axle tube ends of whatever front end you have. dont forget, mine came off of another truck.
 

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56 chev on 79 chassis, 62 LeSabre
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i would think everything on the caddy should transfer over. i dont think it will be able to tell it's not on a cadillac anymore:mwink: those eldorados rear brakes do have the e brake and what was recommended for me as well. some newer cars do as well but good luck finding them in a wrecker. if for some reason you lock up one axle and not the other, all the major players in aftermarket brakes seem to have adustable porportioning valves you can buy
 
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