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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new to this forum and pretty new to the hot rod/ domestic muscle world. I have a Chevy 327 in a Datsun 240z that I want to rebuild with more power. I think the major problem with the motor now is that the seals are leaking and fouling the plugs pretty bad. I also want more power.
I want to go with a new top end (heads, cam, intake, carb, headers, etc) and am looking for combos that work well. I already have MSD ignition that I want to keep. It's got a Holley 600cfm carb and Edelbrock Torker intake that will probably get replaced to get more power. The car is a weekend, street/strip car, my budget is around 2k for parts (less is better as I'm looking for a 700r4 to replace the Turbo 350), and my HP goal is 320-350 or more.
I appreciate any help in finding a combo. One thing to note is that the car has low hood clearance, which is why the Torker is in there now.
 

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First thing I would want to know is what the piston crown looks like (what design, what cc's) and how far the piston is down in the bore at TDC (piston deck height).

Do whichever of these things that will be acceptable to you:
1. Cut a hole in the hood to make room for the air filter assembly after you install the correct Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, keeping the 600 carb.
2. Cut a hole in the hood and install a scoop to make room for the air filter assembly after you install the correct Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, keeping the 600 carb.
Although they are no longer produced, you can sometimes find a used Holley 300-36 or Weiand 8016 in the advertisements for used parts. For all practical purposes, any of the three will perform the same.
Buy these cast iron heads from Racing Head Service. They are 170cc intake runners, 64cc chambers, straight plug, 2.02"/1.60" valves.
http://www.amazon.com/Comp-Cams-12403-Torker-Cylinder/dp/B002DFKQ8G/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1371420320&sr=8-13&keywords=comp+cams+heads

Fill the heads with these offerings.....

A flat-top piston will give you ~9.5:1 static compression ratio. Match it with a retro-fit hydraulic roller cam, 208-216 intake duration. Install long-tube, tuned 1 5/8" headers. Don't tell me that long tubes won't fit. That's why they make Sawzalls and cutting torches.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First thing I would want to know is what the piston crown looks like (what design, what cc's) and how far the piston is down in the bore at TDC (piston deck height).

Do whichever of these things that will be acceptable to you:
1. Cut a hole in the hood to make room for the air filter assembly after you install the correct Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, keeping the 600 carb.
2. Cut a hole in the hood and install a scoop to make room for the air filter assembly after you install the correct Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, keeping the 600 carb.
Although they are no longer produced, you can sometimes find a used Holley 300-36 or Weiand 8016 in the advertisements for used parts. For all practical purposes, any of the three will perform the same.
Buy these cast iron heads from Racing Head Service. They are 170cc intake runners, 64cc chambers, straight plug, 2.02"/1.60" valves.
Comp Cams 12403 Pro Torker Small Block Cylinder Head : Amazon.com : Automotive

Fill the heads with these offerings.....
Amazon.com: RHS 12972-01 Cylinder Head Assembly Kit with Single Valve Springs and 2.020"/1.600" Valves for Small Block Chevy: Automotive

A flat-top piston will give you ~9.5:1 static compression ratio. Match it with a retro-fit hydraulic roller cam, 208-216 intake duration. Install long-tube, tuned 1 5/8" headers. Don't tell me that long tubes won't fit. That's why they make Sawzalls and cutting torches.
Why are those heads listed as Comp Cams?

After doing some research, I think I can get a Performer RPM intake to clear with a drop base air cleaner since some drop 1.5-2".
 

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Why are those heads listed as Comp Cams?
The heads were originally marketed by Racing Head Service, a division/subsidiary/whatever of CompCams, so CC owns the heads. I have no idea whatever happened to Racing Head Service. Many companies have come and gone in the American marketplace.

Pay attention to the flow available down on the bottom of the air cleaner base. Sometimes those drop-base units can restrict flow.

Hard to believe, but you'll pick up about 40 hp with a taller, dual-plane intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
First thing I would want to know is what the piston crown looks like (what design, what cc's) and how far the piston is down in the bore at TDC (piston deck height).

Do whichever of these things that will be acceptable to you:
1. Cut a hole in the hood to make room for the air filter assembly after you install the correct Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, keeping the 600 carb.
2. Cut a hole in the hood and install a scoop to make room for the air filter assembly after you install the correct Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, keeping the 600 carb.
Although they are no longer produced, you can sometimes find a used Holley 300-36 or Weiand 8016 in the advertisements for used parts. For all practical purposes, any of the three will perform the same.
Buy these cast iron heads from Racing Head Service. They are 170cc intake runners, 64cc chambers, straight plug, 2.02"/1.60" valves.
Comp Cams 12403 Pro Torker Small Block Cylinder Head : Amazon.com : Automotive

Fill the heads with these offerings.....
Amazon.com: RHS 12972-01 Cylinder Head Assembly Kit with Single Valve Springs and 2.020"/1.600" Valves for Small Block Chevy: Automotive

A flat-top piston will give you ~9.5:1 static compression ratio. Match it with a retro-fit hydraulic roller cam, 208-216 intake duration. Install long-tube, tuned 1 5/8" headers. Don't tell me that long tubes won't fit. That's why they make Sawzalls and cutting torches.
I can't find out what my pistons look like until I take the heads off, correct?
Is it worth the extra money for hydraulic roller cam/lifters? And would only a retrofit cam fit? I will need to use a cam button to prevent the cam from moving right? Got any suggestions for the cam/lifters?
1.5 or 1.6 rocker arms? Suggestions?
Thanks so much for your help. I understand guns way better than engines :)
 

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I can't find out what my pistons look like until I take the heads off, correct?
Correct, although sometimes you can look in through the spark plug hole with a bore scope.

Is it worth the extra money for hydraulic roller cam/lifters?
Yes.

And would only a retrofit cam fit?
Yes, an aftermarket retrofit roller as opposed to an OEM roller.

I will need to use a cam button to prevent the cam from moving right?
Yes. There are several types, so do your homework.

Got any suggestions for the cam/lifters?
With 9.5:1 static compression ratio, use a cam with intake duration somewhere between 208 and 216.

1.5 or 1.6 rocker arms? Suggestions?
1.6 rockers will show only about 10-12 more horsepower than 1.5 rockers on the same motor. For a street driver, use 1.5 rockers. They will be way easier on all the components than 1.6. If you need every last hp in a competition motor, use 1.6 rockers.

Thanks so much for your help. I understand guns way better than engines :)
 

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a 327 is like a .270 winchester where a BB is a magnum,lol.

The SHP heads are good casting with moderate flow out of the box.look at something like AFR 180s or 195s,or try to find heads that flow the same. I would use a solid roller cam in that 327 and rev it to 7200 RPM.450 plus HP should be no problem.
and what fbird said,use a 750 carb
 

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They're not the best heads, nor are they the worst heads. Here are the flow numbers as published by Stan Weiss......
0.200" 139 114
0.300" 190 145
0.400" 218 164
0.500" 222 172
0.600" 218 174
Theoretically, they'll pass enough air to make about 440 horsepower (intake max flow times 2) under ideal conditions (at sea level, 60 degree F. temp, 100% tune).
 

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Did you read what tech posted? double the intake flow(its actually a little more than that),and thats the potential HP that can be made with those heads. If you want 500 HP you need at least 250 CFM intake and ideally 80% exhaust ratio or you need to run a split duration cam. different rocker ratios mixed with a split duration cam and good heads can make up to 2.2 hp per CFM air flow intake side
 

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Pro-Filer 185's will flow 270 and support well over 500 horsepower. With the 327's smaller displacement, you'll need revs to make up the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I've decided that I will attempt to rebuild the motor myself and send the block to a machine shop for work if I need to. The HOA can go worry about crime or something else. This way I can afford better parts and learn a lot.
Here are the parts I'm considering right now:
Heads: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhs-12052
Head Assembly Kit:
Cam/lifters: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl113215-10
Intake: Edelbrock Performer EPS (not the RPM)
Carb: sticking with my Holley vac secondary 600cfm
Rockers: ???
Pushrods: ???

I've not completely figured out the timing chain/button/thrust washer deal yet.
I should be looking for a composite gear for my distributor right? I've read that it's suggested that a channel be milled or filed into the bottom band on the distributor shaft to provide oil to the gears. Is this necessary for all applications?
Is it necessary to remove the inner valve spring during break in?
Should I replace my crank/rods/pistons even if they look ok? If my pistons are dished, I'd like to go with flat tops.

What do you think about all this? Any suggestions on changes or any parts is greatly appreciated. Also, links to step by step (photos preferred) on how to assemble anything would be helpful. My books don't go over retrofit roller cams.

Thanks,
Wilson
 
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