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I bought some cam degree eccentric bushings for my 355 SB. When I degreed the cam it was 1.5 deg retarded when checked .050 before and after max lobe lift. It is a comp cam solid lifter flat tappet. I am going to check it at .020 to see if that changes it.

Can degree eccentric be used on this. I got to thinking that the cam is positioned also by the three bolts and I dont know if there is enough play in them to offset it or if they need to be enlarged and let the cam itsled center the gear. Any thoughts?
 

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Yes the 3 bolt holes need to be enlarged to allow for the rotation with the bushings. Some people elongate the holes others just drill them out larger, which way you decide to go will be determined by how much you want to move the orientation.
 

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F-BIRD'88 said:
You cannot degree in a modern cam using the .050" down from peak lift or .100' down from either side of peak lift method to fine the lobe installed centerline. The lobe is ground asymmetrical. It is different on the closing side than the opening side. Use the .050" tappet lift specs to degree in the cam.

We have been using the center line method for years now with no problems and its recomended buy the cam companies or they would not put it on the cam card and this is true on degreeing in a roller cam as most tools out there that go into the lifter bore in most cases does not have the same radius as the wheel on the lifter and this will give a false reading on your .050 event unless you are using the same lifter to get your measurments from.

95% of the cams we use are asymetrical and we use the center line method on all of them and zero problems

The cam companies have calaculated out there center line and I am sure there not going to give out false info. And we find this to be very accurate in degreeing a cam in.

And you never did answer my quetion on how old your are or even what type of work you do for a living!!!!!!!!!! STILL WAITING

DUDE WHERE THE HELL DO DREAM UP ALL THIS FALSE INFORMATION YOU POST as some of the things you post are just not right.

It seems like your are tring to reinvent the wheel here or something!!!!!!!!!
 

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F-BIRD'88 said:
DUDE!!! The only thing you are right about is the difference in wheel radius VS a cam checking tool or other larger or smaller lifter wheel and how it will affect duration.
Unless you have the exact crowned flat tappet lifter to check your .050 number its not going to be accurate as checking .050 each side of max cam lift.

Now I have a few friends tha work in some of the top Cup shops and there caps are degreed in at .050 each side of max. lift, We have access to a cam DR. and we find the cams we run to be right on the money. And I am sure the guys in the cup shops don't know what there doing either. Maybe you should go down there and tell them that they are doing it all wrong and see how long you last arguing with them.

DUDE do you own a shop or build engines for a living or are just an assembler giving out false info here and what do you do for a living as we are all waiting to hear.

AGAIN PLEASE BACK AWAAAAAY FROM THE BOOKS AND MAGAZINES
 
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