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After removing my lifters and inspecting them, I have learned that I need to replace my camshaft and my lifters...

If I'm going to replace the camshaft then I want to do it possibly with something a little better than stock...

I wanted to sound choppy/lopey...

What is a good camshaft and lift a kit that will make my engine sound a little more choppy ?
A lopey 305 with a stock converter and rear gears is going to be a REAL turd on the street. Just put a stock or near stock cam in it and save to build a 383, a transmission/converter, and a rear end.

Figure $10 per horsepower for the 383 engine.

For your 305 engine, why not put in some sort of an original spec hydraulic cam for a 9:1 compression low performance 327? Someone else might know what this would be, or maybe something better that will retain a little bit of torque on the low end and work with the low compression of your 305.



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A L-79 or L-82 clone cam is a good cam for a 305 SBC. Either one will give you the desired sound at idle. In a 305 either one take off will feel about the same with a stronger 2500 to 4500 mid range.


Here is one of those cams in a .010 over 305 with Edelbrock Torker intake, long tube headers. 4v carburetor, HEI etc. The L-79 camshaft is easy on the valve train.
L79 was a 11.0:1 compression engine. Just sayin'!

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Anyways, another way to get choppy/lopey is to switch to manual choke; When you want chop, close the choke up. Back to normal, open it up......

Not saying anyone SHOULD do this, i'm just saying this is a way to get choppy / lopey without messing with the cam.....
I'm going to actually admit to doing this when I was 19. Back when you would cruise the town in your car on the weekend. When you go by the fast food places where everyone would congregate..... a little extra choke and it would sound wild!
 

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If you have an L69 engine that is starting to get tired, why not just put a similar cam back in? Comp makes a "factory muscle" cam for the L69. Factory Muscle 195/202 Hydraulic Flat Cam for Chevrolet Small Block. Hotter cams are going to require at least new and stronger valve springs. It has to run better than a flat original cam.

One thing I have never seen in your posts - does this vehicle have headers?

How about taking a photo of the RPO code list that is pasted in your glovebox. We can tell your rear end gear from that amongst many other things.
 

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Try a Melling CCS-37 it's supposed to be for the 305 HO engine (higher performance than the CCS-23) How about that photo of the RPO codes in your glovebox??????? See if yours is really a L69 and a SS.

If you want to replace valvesprings - stock for your engine is fine with these mild cams. Extra stiff and you just risk more camshaft wear.
 

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I looked up the VIN number and it's not an SS...

What I'm assuming to be an l69 doesn't have the same bolt pattern as the Chevy TH350C transmission I have.

See how different the motor mounts to the transmission ?
View attachment 627806
View attachment 627805

I think this is a Buick motor with l69 heads on it... The head casting numbers show l69 but the block itself shows 1983 to 1984 305 motor.
Its a Chevy motor. Buick motor is completely different and Chevy heads dont fit.

If it came with a L69 it will say so on the RPO list. If it came with something else, it will tell you what. It will also tell you what rear end you have.

Unless you have specific wear, I would just clean up the rockers and pushrods and re-use.

You know how to change valvesprings and valve stem seals with the heads on the engine? It involves an air compressor.

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I'm not for sure about specific wear, I just visually assumed those things were okay.. I did clean the push rods and I cleaned parts of the rockers and the rocker balls and set everything back just as I pulled them out.
Then they should be just fine for this. I would guess the heads are original to the motor so if they are H.O........

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@Tynan918

My question to you is do you want a smooth stock idle or a noticeable idle (choppy) from the engine or have you changed your mind?
If you stay somewhere near the original camshaft's specs it will sound "stock". If you want a noticeable idle you will need to use a tighter LSA or more duration or both.
I think he wants it to get him back and forth to work until he can afford a better engine. This 305 is not worth putting significant money into. But he is between a rock and a hard place with transportation. Almost 25% leakdown on some cyl and cost to rebuild a 305 is the same as a 350. New cam is to get him by because it is flat. At least thats how I understand it.

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Just keep in mind that for a given camshaft, how it acts in a small 305 is much different than in a much larger 383 - so generic statements about torque converter and gears are suspect and do not necessarily correlate with reality. The same cam will act more radical in the smaller engine.

Take a look at the Crower catalog. Not saying you want one of their cams - but they do account for engine size and these same rules apply to all manufacturers.
 

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🍿🍿🍿🍿 Just munching away at this point! Tynan do you still want the lopey sound even at the expense of bottom end power, using an old worn out stock 305? If you do, just say so! It's easy to choose such a cam. Wanting this is not a crime, and plenty of people have done this before! Probably run better than it did with your flat stock cam.
 

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^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^ is how i'm feeling as well lately.
i think the trend is going towards roller cams and thus the cam companies aren't putting much effort into flat lifter cams?

How much would it cost, and what is involved, to switch to a roller cam in this application?
Doesn't make much sense in an old worn out 305. https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K12-407-8/10002/-1?year=1984&make=CHEVROLET&model=MONTE+CARLO

Need to have the different springs with a roller cam to handle the additional weight of the heavy roller lifter.

I have a theory that a lot of the flat tappet cam failures stem from using flat tappet cams with roller-cam springs. A lot of the modern aluminum heads come with roller cam springs and require an alternate spring option to get the correct ones for a flat tappet cam. Don't think a lot of people worry about this, about breaking things in correctly, or about using high-ZDDP oil.
 

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Yea, I'm wanting this cam kit for my 305...I'm actually considering being down until maybe May or June taking things apart, inspecting, and replacing what I can without removing the motor from the car.

Right now, I'm focusing on the camshaft and valve train (I want everything COMP Cams from the camshaft to the rockers), and Oil Pump and Oil Pump Screen, and inspecting the crankshaft while the pan is off of course.

Once I swap the camshaft and timing chain kit and timing cover, and replace what I need to and can in the oil pan with the motor in the car, and get things buttoned and sealed up at the bottom, I can lower the engine back down and work on the top end...maybe even a head removal to inspect and verify piston and valve health and type.
Why not just buy a cheap engine stand ($49.95) from a closeout store and rent or buy a fold-up type engine hoist (about $100). Sounds like you are 9 bolts away from taking the engine out.

It's apparent that you are itching to work on it and learn - that has a lot of value. My advice is to spend a minimum amount of money on this engine, and don't get discouraged if things don't turn out. Only thing I would advise against is for a novice to start pulling main and rod caps - especially from underneath.
 

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Sound like you have a plan and have picked your parts. With all the new stuff you're not going to want to put it together with worn valve guides. Better go ahead and take those heads off and get them disassembled for inspection. You can get valve springs off with a socket and a hammer - ask if you want to do it. Also you can look at cylinder wear by determining how much ridge is above the top ring and any scoring of the cylinders. DO NOT use abrasives or wire brushes and a drill or sandpaper to clean gasket surfaces. Use a putty knife dressed with a file or use single edge razor blades and carb cleaner. Dont get any junk/grit along side the pistons above the top ring (much easier when you can scrape with the engine upside down). Oil exposed metal well so it doesnt rust, especially if you occasionally run a heater in an otherwise cold garage. I would not leave a disassembled engine outside for any length of time. Covering does not really help much.

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Seems the only way to replace worn valve guides is to take it to a machine shop but looking at the costs, I might as well put 350 Vortec heads and Vortec Perfomer RPM intake manifold on my 305...but would that mean I could go bigger on the camshaft ? Would I also have to change exhaust manifolds ?
The problems you are getting into is that even with new heads 1) it still would have an old 305 bottom end and 2) costs to build a bigger engine are the same.

Hopefully your guides are not horrible like that one in the video and you can make it work as-is for a while. But I would check them so you know what you have before putting good money after bad in this engine. You don't want to have to do head work on this 305.

Vortec head swap with manifold is probably another $1000. I'm personally not sure how 350 Vortec heads work on a 305 because of the small cylinder size. If they work, then more power can be made with the same cam. Someone else would comment better on that. Don't think you would have to change manifolds to get things to seal, but who wants stock 305 exhaust manifolds with a Comp cam and Vortec heads? It would be pretty strange and self-defeating.

Ultimately it is your money. BTW I think your cam/lifter choice is just fine for street and your 305. But I still would caution against getting carried away with spending on this engine. It is old, and tired and too small. If you can get it to last and serve you another couple of years by installing a camshaft and lifters (and springs) then great, it makes sense!
 

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My early on recommendation was just keep the 305 limping along and put his real money into a replacement account for at least a 350. But now he’s into it so we need to help him from where he’s at.

Bogie
Agree completely. But he has proven he is bound and determined to do his thing - and he has that right. At least his final cam choice isn't off the charts. I'll help him if I can.
 
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